Sharivari on aiming....

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Apologies for going off-topic, but just thought I'd like to hear your opinion on this method for calculating the angle for any shot anywhere on the table. ...
This system seems to say that for two angles a and b, tan(a-b) = tan(a)-tan(b). That has a significant error especially for larger angles. If you are going to use numbers in a system it's better to use the correct numbers.

The example you show will be close because one of the lines is nearly parallel to a rail.

A good way to study the accuracy of this system is to take a bunch of positions within the system and find the angle from the system and compare it to the actual angle with an accuracy of 0.1 degree.

(The 0.1 is to ensure that you don't get lazy on the arithmetic. It's not required for most shots. )
 
This system seems to say that for two angles a and b, tan(a-b) = tan(a)-tan(b). That has a significant error especially for larger angles. If you are going to use numbers in a system it's better to use the correct numbers.

The example you show will be close because one of the lines is nearly parallel to a rail.

A good way to study the accuracy of this system is to take a bunch of positions within the system and find the angle from the system and compare it to the actual angle with an accuracy of 0.1 degree.

(The 0.1 is to ensure that you don't get lazy on the arithmetic. It's not required for most shots. )
Hmm, not sure if I'm following what you mean. I don't see how tangent function is related to it. My explanation was probably poorly written and hard to follow, but the basic idea is that you measure the potting angle in degrees by using table geometry/diamonds as a measuring device. This obviously doesn't account for throw etc, just a way of measuring the cut angle in degrees neatly. To make it practical, you can convert that angle value into a ball overlap value to aim at.
 
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Apologies for going off-topic, but just thought I'd like to hear your opinion on this method for calculating the angle for any shot anywhere on the table. I assume you either know a lot about Poolology, or created it. That's why I ask you. You say Poolology lets you know objectively if a shot is a half-ball shot, so I'm curious if it's faster or slower, and more or less accurate than this method I'm showing. Have you heard of/used any system similar to this one among your research into Poolology?

It uses the cue to measure two angles relative to the table (in case of a normal pot, the CB->ghostball and OB->pocket angles)

The observation that makes this work well is that by extending the diamond markings inwards towards the inner edge of the cushion, the table is actually just two perfect squares. So using one of those two squares, you can then measure angles easily and accurately with your cue and some visualization to get the values.

In the example of the image, you would find out a value of 2.5 which, if you have memorized the associations between angles and ball overlaps (which can be quickly derived and memorized from the sin function of sin values between 0 and 90), you'd know would be just slightly above 2.4 (half ball hit), and therefore have an objective knowledge of the ball overlap to shoot at (ignoring other variables like throw), just like you say Poolology gives you.

Again, apologies for offtopic. Didn't want to make a new topic for this, since it's pretty useless practically in my opinion. Just a neat way of doing objective measurements if you need to do them for whatever reason. Works for any shot type, any two angles you want, just a simple geometrical measurement method. Usually takes like 10-20 seconds to do the measurements, depending on the required precision. Then after that to convert the value to be used in aiming, depends on how you do it and how fast/accurately you can convert that to a ball overlap, but it can be as fast as 2-5 seconds.
So... A - B ?

pj
chgo

angles.png
 
Hmm, not sure if I'm following what you mean. I don't see how tangent function is related to it. ...
The rise in a given length (four diamonds) is proportional to the tangent of the angle (relative to the bottom rail in your picture).

The formula you show in effect claims that tangents are equal (proportional) to angles. That is false. This is fairly simple geometry/trig.
 
I see, I get it now. Good to know, didn't realize this before.

I guess the simplest fix to decrease the margin of error (not completely, but by a good amount), would be to memorize the general trend or precisely how much the error is at each angle and just add/subtract that much from the measurements along the way.

Without precise numbers, the trend to fix the error would be that, the closer to 45 degrees (4 diamonds) you are, the more you'd shift the measurement away from the 45 degree side.

4 diamonds -> no adjustment
3 diamonds -> move 0.3 diamonds
2 diamonds -> move 0.2 diamonds
1 diamond -> move 0.1 diamonds

For anything else, you can interpolate.
 

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Seems a bit complicated, a lot of guesstimation, doesn't it?

With Poolology, the OB is at 26. The cb-ob centerline lands at about 13 or 14 on the end rail (not quite 1.5 diamonds from the pocket. Immediately this tells me a halfball aim will pocket the ball. No guesswork.
I think this method shares some of Poolology's simplification ethic - projecting the OB and CB paths onto the half table centerline allows easy memorization of fractional aim benchmarks on that line for visual comparison with actual cut angles.

pj
chgo
 
"I can make a simple CAD drawing to explain it!"
...
...
...
🦗🦗🦗

🤣
Unfortunately, he now of course accuses me of being childish behavior or whatever and all I have asked him to do is do exactly what he claimed he could do extremely easily do.

He said he can easily prove CTE with CAD. I said that works be great, that would settle the debate once and for all.

Now he always has a reason/excuse why he will not do what he claimed he can easily do.

Just seems so strange too behave like that.
 
Unfortunately, he now of course accuses me of being childish behavior or whatever and all I have asked him to do is do exactly what he claimed he could do extremely easily do.

He said he can easily prove CTE with CAD. I said that works be great, that would settle the debate once and for all.

Now he always has a reason/excuse why he will not do what he claimed he can easily do.

Just seems so strange too behave like that.
I've learned you just have to let these things go eventually. He stepped in it, maybe didn't really understand what he was saying or the audience he was saying it to and isn't man enough to own up. It goes into the database that creates a reputation, good, bad or mixed.
 
I've learned you just have to let these things go eventually. He stepped in it, maybe didn't really understand what he was saying or the audience he was saying it to and isn't man enough to own up. It goes into the database that creates a reputation, good, bad or mixed.
There have been two DVD's.
30+ some videos . Not counting the dozens of other variations.
A 6 lbs book.
Still no diagram.
The best one is by Dr Dave.
And they haven't made.their own to counter Dr Dave's.
 
I think this method shares some of Poolology's simplification ethic - projecting the OB and CB paths onto the half table centerline allows easy memorization of fractional aim benchmarks on that line for visual comparison with actual cut angles.

pj
chgo
Also bear mind using Poolology’s system, since it’s based on the OB being within 4ft-8” of the CB, the longer you are away from the OB, especially on 9ft tables, you have to compensate by aiming a tad thicker!
 
Also bear mind using Poolology’s system, since it’s based on the OB being within 4ft-8” of the CB, the longer you are away from the OB, especially on 9ft tables, you have to compensate by aiming a tad thicker!

Sort of correct, but not quite...

It's true that with fractional aiming (when keeping the cb and ob on the same line anyway), one has to aim thinner as the cb gets closer to the ob. However, after a distance of about 2ft between the balls, the angle difference is so small that it really isn't much of an issue.

Example: Setup a halfball shot with 3ft between cb and ob. Lets say the halfball aim pockets the ball dead-center pocket. If you move the cb another 3ft back along the same centerline between the balls, making it a 6ft distance now, the same halfball aim will result in the ob being overcut by less than 1°. That's typically not enough to warrant any aiming adjustment or compensation.

With Poolology, the system is most accurate within a certain cb-ob distance (about to 2 to 5 feet). This is because that's the parameters used to design the system. Beyond 5ft isn't much of an issue, but as the distance gets closer than 2ft, especially nearing 1ft, the shots will begin to come off too thick to hit the pocket.

It's an interesting thing, and it's more prevalent on thinner cuts than thicker cuts. A 3/4 aimed shot (about a 15° cut angle) has a difference of only 0.8° when comparing a 2ft cb-ob distance to a 5ft distance. The same aim at a 1ft distance will come off 2.1° thicker when compared to the 5ft distance.

A difference of 0.8° is no problem, but 2° can definitely cause a miss.

A halfball aim has a difference of 1.6° when comparing a 2ft shot to a 5ft shot. But the difference between a 1ft shot distance and a 5ft distance is 4.3°. That's a big miss!

So aiming thinner than the system indicates is a definite must as the cb gets closer to the ob, but very seldom is aiming thicker at longer distances required.
 
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