Slotting Cutters Arbor question
- Thread starter Adonisy
- Start date
You will have to make a spacer (bushing) that fits between your slotting cutter and the nut. I would suggest using something like aluminum or phenolic and make a nice fitting part.
Bryan
Bryan
We Are A Few Weeks Out On A 3 Piece Arbor Set High Speed And Cnc Precision These Will Blow You Away There Awsome..lee
Spacer
Lee, It appears that you do need some sort of spacer. Where did you purchase it? Perhaps it got lost in shipping or packing. If you make a spacer, I would recommend that you make it out of steel. You wouldn't want it to losen up or come apart while it's turning.
Lee, It appears that you do need some sort of spacer. Where did you purchase it? Perhaps it got lost in shipping or packing. If you make a spacer, I would recommend that you make it out of steel. You wouldn't want it to losen up or come apart while it's turning.
assembly
I think you have an arbor assembly that may use a bearing at the top. If you carefully face off and bore a piece of 1/2 in. phenolic rod or tube and use it as a spacer between the top nut, washer and cutter, you should be able to use this assembly. Make sure to check the balance before you cut (accurate boring is very important). You can see and hear if the bit is not balanced. Good luck, Kent:thumbup:
I think you have an arbor assembly that may use a bearing at the top. If you carefully face off and bore a piece of 1/2 in. phenolic rod or tube and use it as a spacer between the top nut, washer and cutter, you should be able to use this assembly. Make sure to check the balance before you cut (accurate boring is very important). You can see and hear if the bit is not balanced. Good luck, Kent:thumbup:
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I just finished threading mine the rest of the way up and stopped before getting to the critical area where the cutter sits. Easy fix on the lathe with your die tool.
John
John
Adonisy said:this is my slotting cutters and arbor
how should I assemble it? thanks
As fast as you can get KJ cues to send you one of his arbors for his ring cutting setup.
They are much better balanced that what you have there and require no spacers.
KJ still making those?WilleeCue said:
I wanna try one.
Could someone leave the contact info for KJ please.
Thanks
DOUG
Thanks
DOUG
patrickcues said:
Doug, Heres a link to the thread where I bought mine from KJ......There nice and work great.....Dave
LINK http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=88694
Thanx Much
Thanx for sharing the contact info guys. I've been working at the shop most of the night and just got here. Actually, I just sold the last 2 I had in stock before I got to this section of the forum. New stock is an email away and should be here by middle of next week. Please PM if you need anything. Saws are in stock now. Thanx Much, KJ
Thanx for sharing the contact info guys. I've been working at the shop most of the night and just got here. Actually, I just sold the last 2 I had in stock before I got to this section of the forum. New stock is an email away and should be here by middle of next week. Please PM if you need anything. Saws are in stock now. Thanx Much, KJ
rhncue said:
Believe it on not, Dick, but I and some others are using them and they are a perfect fit for for the 6 tooth cutters that have been posted on this thread.
But thanks for your OPINION that is the opposite of the FACTS posted by those that KNOW.
KJ Cues said:
Thank YOU KJ, for making available something that works a little better than what is commonly available.
I know you offered these for your ring cutter saw and that also is a worthwhile tool but your arbor really fits the 6 tooth cutter like it was precision made for it.
It is a much better design than the other one.
In my new Kress router there is almost no vibration and the finish left on the shaft is very smooth indeed.
For anyone tapering shafts with a standard router bit I can only say ... there is something better that you really should try.
However, there is a greater danger that must be addressed.
A guard of some type is mandatory.
If one of those 6 teeth let go while spinning at speed it is going to become a bullet.
"persis-ion" Arbor Just A Few Weeks Away
NO MATTER WHAT LATHE YOU USE TO MAKE ARBORS AT HOME THE ACCURACY WILL NOT EVEN BE CLOSE TO WHAT THESE NEW ARBORS WILL BE CHRIS HIGHTOWER SHOWED ME THIS ARBOR AT HOPKINS HE GOT FROM A CUE MAKER THESE WERE STORE BOUGHT ARBORS RE MACHINED NOT VERY ACCURATE OUR KNEW ARBORS ARE STAINLESS AND VERY PRECISE WE ALSO HAVE A BLADE FOR RING CUTTING AND NEW SAW BLADE FOR CUTTING SHAFTSBrianna said:
brianna187 said:
Are the arbors that you are referring to as being "NOT VERY ACCURATE" the ones that KJ is offering?
If so let me say this ... I dont know what kind of lathe he used or how much he paid for it ... I only know that if the fit between the arbor and the cutter were any tighter you would have problems getting it on.
When I run it in my Kress Router I feel no added vibration so I assume it is running very true.
I get a much smoother cut from it so I must assume that it is actually running smoother.
If and when YOU offer a better arbor, I will recommend and say good things about it also.
Until then I can only relate what I am experiencing with the equipment I have in my hand.
At this time the arbor that KJ is selling is the best you can get to use with those 6 tooth cutters. IMHO
Here are two photos the second is a close up of the shaft after a pass.
With the light coming from the end of the shaft you can barely see a slight ringing from the cutter.
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Willee,
Thank you greatly for your support.
Adronisy was kind enough to provide to me a link to the type of slot cutters that you guys are using and I'll pass it along here for others to see :
http://www.mytoolstore.com/everlast/evr22.html
I noticed that every slotter on the page has a 5/16" arbor hole. This struck me as odd also because as Dick stated, 5/16" arbor hole is somewhat of an odd-ball size for these. Normally, mandrels of this size call for a 1/4" or 3/8" arbor. It is merely coincidence that my carbide saws happen to also have a 5/16" arbor hole. Oh well, just when you think you've got it figured-out, life throws you a curve. Adapt, improvise & overcome. I hope this helps to diffuse any misunderstandings on the subject so that we can all move forward. One of the concerns for any engineer is that he may have overlooked something. I do it quite a lot lately as I'm terribly absentminded. Opinions are certainly welcome as they allow us to see from a different perspective and possibly evaluate other options. At present, these mandrels seem to do the job quite well even though they weren't designed specifically for this application.
I wholeheartedly agree that a guard should be considered mandatory, at least on the operators side of the cutter. You are absolutely correct in that, should one of the brazed-on carbide tips of the slot cutter decide it's time to leave, that it doesn't wind-up in your chest. It can happen!!! When I used to do a little construction work I'd have a carbide tipped blade on my circular saw. Sometimes at the end of the day I'd notice that one or more of the carbide tips would be missing from the blade. At about that point, all you can do is ask 'where the hell did that go' and go have a beer and think about it.
Thank you greatly for your support.
Adronisy was kind enough to provide to me a link to the type of slot cutters that you guys are using and I'll pass it along here for others to see :
http://www.mytoolstore.com/everlast/evr22.html
I noticed that every slotter on the page has a 5/16" arbor hole. This struck me as odd also because as Dick stated, 5/16" arbor hole is somewhat of an odd-ball size for these. Normally, mandrels of this size call for a 1/4" or 3/8" arbor. It is merely coincidence that my carbide saws happen to also have a 5/16" arbor hole. Oh well, just when you think you've got it figured-out, life throws you a curve. Adapt, improvise & overcome. I hope this helps to diffuse any misunderstandings on the subject so that we can all move forward. One of the concerns for any engineer is that he may have overlooked something. I do it quite a lot lately as I'm terribly absentminded. Opinions are certainly welcome as they allow us to see from a different perspective and possibly evaluate other options. At present, these mandrels seem to do the job quite well even though they weren't designed specifically for this application.
I wholeheartedly agree that a guard should be considered mandatory, at least on the operators side of the cutter. You are absolutely correct in that, should one of the brazed-on carbide tips of the slot cutter decide it's time to leave, that it doesn't wind-up in your chest. It can happen!!! When I used to do a little construction work I'd have a carbide tipped blade on my circular saw. Sometimes at the end of the day I'd notice that one or more of the carbide tips would be missing from the blade. At about that point, all you can do is ask 'where the hell did that go' and go have a beer and think about it.
"persis-ion" Arbor????
Honestly, sometimes it's just too damn easy.
Just like I don't do level 2 Sudokus anymore, just a waste of ink.
FWIW, the correct spelling of "persis-ion" is p-r-e-c-i-s-i-o-n.
I don't know, maybe your spell-check is on the fritz again. Seems to happen quite often. And why are you shouting all the time (caps locked = shouting).
A little knowledge of punctuation wouldn't hurt you either.
To clarify, my mandrels aren't made 'at home'. I own a full-fledged weld & machine shop. But then you knew that.....hmmm.
brianna187 said:
Honestly, sometimes it's just too damn easy.
Just like I don't do level 2 Sudokus anymore, just a waste of ink.
FWIW, the correct spelling of "persis-ion" is p-r-e-c-i-s-i-o-n.
I don't know, maybe your spell-check is on the fritz again. Seems to happen quite often. And why are you shouting all the time (caps locked = shouting).
A little knowledge of punctuation wouldn't hurt you either.
To clarify, my mandrels aren't made 'at home'. I own a full-fledged weld & machine shop. But then you knew that.....hmmm.