So What Does One Do When They Don't Have a Decent Local Mechanic...?

[Toxictom]

I think I did touch on that earlier on, but I don't have a problem running through it again.

First is cost. Now this is relative because some apply their personal burn rate to the diy projects they take on. It needs to be understood that I am not one of those people. I actually swing the other way and perfer to take on projects even if there's minor savings to be had.

I had a line on a Canada Billiards 'Black Crown II' (commerical grade) table in fairly new condition. It would have cost me $~3k to purchase. Of course I would still have to tear it down and set it up. I never took the time to see it in person so I can't speak to it's pocket specs. That said, it was in a pool room which leads me to believe it still would have been lacking (too loose) to what I perfer to play on. So, reno a table I already own...?..., or buy a table that I'll have to reno. Although I do like the styling of the Black Crown II. I can't justify ~3k just because of some OEM chrome trim.

Second is heritage. This table was bought by my mother as a gift to my father. Although he did initially attempt to sell it on the open market before giving it to me. That fact still remains that it was gift by him to me and my family. So although the table isn't of exceeding quality or lengthy lineage. It still remains an item that has been passed down generationally speaking. If I bought something else, this table would have to go. No one else in my family either has the room and/or plays the game enough to justify having a table. So..., I have zero doubt that I can make this table play as well as anything else with the right amount of effort. What any other table would lack, is this heritage.

Lastly, the challenge. Reno'ing a table is something I've never taken on before. I'm one of those types of people that jump at opprotunities to learn skills. I'm an electrician by trade. Upgraded to automation and then controls programming professionally. I took up woodworking, which turned me on to vintage machinery restoration. That shifted me into metal casting and hobby machining....etc. Professionally I've went to pasture and took an admin job, so my idle hands and need of challenge made this project a must do.

I know some will not relate to any of the above. Yes, I could have easily bought something else, or thrown a ton of money at someone of experienced skill to do the work I'm taking on. That's just not the way I'm wired I'm afraid.

You mentioned you have other project builds on other forums. I’d like to see some of those since you do such a fine job detailing your work and garnering knowledge from other craftsmen.

 

[coolidge]

Did you get an opportunity to measure up your pocket angles...?

Measured them last night. Corner pockets are 141 degrees. Side pockets 106 degrees but the lining is not flat so that's a rough measurement. I need to remove the liner and remeasure. Haven't measured the down angle yet.

 

[The_JV]

You mentioned you have other project builds on other forums. I’d like to see some of those since you do such a fine job detailing your work and garnering knowledge from other craftsmen.

You used the word 'other' so I'm going to take that as a compliment, so thank you.

I have a YouTube channel that has a bunch of little things on display there.
I shifted my attention to documenting via video rather than forum posts a while ago. It takes an ungodly amount of time to edit that content though, so I rolled back to old habits here on AZB. There's hours worth that I haven't bothered making public.

I did have some entertaining content on a diy metal casting forum that I just now discovered has been decommissioned: AlloyAvenue.com
This was where I gleaned backyard metal casting. Had a couple of decent threads regarding my furnace build and creating patterns.

It's been a long time but I was also quite active on CanadianWoodworking,com
I was one of the members that helped bring in the vintage machinery sub-forum. I was also an active collaborator on the owwm.org forum (old woodworking machinery), but didn't get crazy with documenting there.

 

[fastone371]

Not a fan either.... I'm sure some will try and attribute some of level of design enchanced playability.

That said, the consistent wide rail of the Diamond is light years better than those Brunswicks that had that flared width along the long rail. At least I think they're a Brunswick model

Edit: Whatever this model is called....
View attachment 625543

Absolutely!!!! I have never seen one of those dinosaurs in person. Weird table.

 

[Dartman]

Not a fan either.... I'm sure some will try and attribute some of level of design enchanced playability.

That said, the consistent wide rail of the Diamond is light years better than those Brunswicks that had that flared width along the long rail. At least I think they're a Brunswick model

Edit: Whatever this model is called....
View attachment 625543

Metro

 

[realkingcobra]

Absolutely!!!! I have never seen one of those dinosaurs in person. Weird table.

That's a more modern Brunswick, its called a Metro.

 

[trentfromtoledo]

metro can play well with the right mechanic!!

TFT

 

[The_JV]

metro can play well with the right mechanic!!

oh I have zero doubt that the table can play very well if set up correctly. My thoughts are merely based on the flared rail width in terms of bridging.

 

[The_JV]

View attachment 625434

View attachment 625436

So I'm really waffling on this corner 'bracket' thing.

I went around the table comparing the gap seen in the first pic, and for the most part they are <0.25". However I do have one corner that hovers ~0.28". This jogged a memory of rail misalignment when I was first assessing the scope of the refinishing. The old plastic caps did a decent job of hiding this issue. All in all, it isn't a big deal. I was really just trying to determine a max number for material considerations.

The only hard fast consideration regarding these brackets is the exposed edge that follows the arc of the wooden cap. The rest is totally up in the air. To that end, I'm really weighing 'work vs reward' on these. I've pretty much tossed the concept of the bowtie/dovetail retaining aspect. Too much machining work to be bothered with honestly. Right now I've boiled it down to just tabs and threaded inserts as suggested early on by Rexus I believe. That said, I'm also thinking that I could make my life even easier and do away with the tabs. Think a 'L' shape where knee has been shaped to match the wooden cap. The 'legs' of the bracket stretch to the rails where I'd bolt them. Other options are just variations of the same theme.

The other consideration is material. Out of the gate I was thinking steel, as even mild steel will polish up nicely given a ton of effort. Now I'm leaning toward 6061 Al. 6061 polishes up very easily. It will also go in orders of magnitude easier to machine/shape.

Lastly, I was thinking that if I follow through with the 'L' shape, that I may stretch the design element beyond the wooden cap. Maybe an inch or so. Thinking that may tie the corner into the rest of the rail. That of course has now lead me to consider stretching the highlight around the whole table. Think maybe a 0.2" band around the table. With the corners being the minimum 0.3" or maybe even a full 0.5".

Decisions, decisions....

 

[bradsh98]

If it were me, I'd add 2 alignment dowels to each side, then throw a couple of connectors (below) in there, and be done with it...

 

[fastone371]

What about just simply using hidden fasteners like the Kreg stuff??

Welcome to Kreg Tool

Innovative Solutions for all of your Woodworking and DIY Project Needs

www.kregtool.com

 

[The_JV]

If it were me, I'd add 2 alignment dowels to each side, then throw a couple of connectors (below) in there, and be done with it...
View attachment 626222

What about just simply using hidden fasteners like the Kreg stuff??

Welcome to Kreg Tool

Innovative Solutions for all of your Woodworking and DIY Project Needs

www.kregtool.com

For fastening the corners to the rails, both these options are great. What they are missing is an element that will fill in the gap below the corner.

That can of course be dealt with in another manner, but I'm looking towards a '2 birds, 1 stone' solution. Is that making things more difficult..?.., yes. However, this thread would be over if I took the easy options...lol

I do appreciate the solid suggestions though.

Edit:

This has me rethinking..... Damn it
They're called "miter bolts" for anyone else attempting google searches...

 

[fastone371]

For fastening the corners to the rails, both these options are great. What they are missing is an element that will fill in the gap below the corner.
View attachment 626227
That can of course be dealt with in another manner, but I'm looking towards a '2 birds, 1 stone' solution. Is that making things more difficult..?.., yes. However, this thread would be over if I took the easy options...lol

I do appreciate the solid suggestions though.

Oooohhhhh, I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. I didnt understand at first why you were fretting the brackets so much, now I do. Thank you for the clarity.

It would probably be a lot of work but to look best I think I would trim it out in matching wood. Kind of like how a woodworker will put extra trim detail on a bookshelf for example that not only looks nice but serves a purpose too.

 

[rexus31]

For fastening the corners to the rails, both these options are great. What they are missing is an element that will fill in the gap below the corner.
View attachment 626227

What is that, about a 1/4" void? Do you have enough material to fill the entire void? If not, perhaps you can fabricate a lip for the outer edge held in place with wood glue and finish braids from the underside.

 

[The_JV]

Oooohhhhh, I see said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw. I didnt understand at first why you were fretting the brackets so much, now I do. Thank you for the clarity.

My apologies for not being completely clear on the situation earlier. When I start rambling I tend to assume people are fully aware of the crap spinning around in my head....lol

It would probably be a lot of work but to look best I think I would trim it out in matching wood. Kind of like how a woodworker will put extra trim detail on a bookshelf for example that not only looks nice but serves a purpose too.

See this is exactly what I'm aiming for but instead of wood I want to use a metal that I can put a good polish on.

 

[The_JV]

What is that, about a 1/4" void? Do you have enough material to fill the entire void? If not, perhaps you can fabricate a lip for the outer edge held in place with wood glue and finish braids from the underside.

I knew I would be addressing it at a later date so I didn't put a ton of effort in installing the caps at an even height. 3 corners are below .25", but one is right around ~.28

I may have enough material kicking around to fill in the bare minimum of the voids. Outer edge if you will. That would allow me to use a simpler bracket or bolt system to hold things together. I don't have a ton of time finishing wood though. Not entirely sure how the seams and varying grain would blend, if at all...?

 

[rexus31]

Not entirely sure how the seams and varying grain would blend, if at all...?

At that thickness and being as it is at the bottom of the bracket, likely the only one that will notice is you.

 

[realkingcobra]

I knew I would be addressing it at a later date so I didn't put a ton of effort in installing the caps at an even height. 3 corners are below .25", but one is right around ~.28

I may have enough material kicking around to fill in the bare minimum of the voids. Outer edge if you will. That would allow me to use a simpler bracket or bolt system to hold things together. I don't have a ton of time finishing wood though. Not entirely sure how the seams and varying grain would blend, if at all...?

The answer you're looking for is already in use in the corner block of the Diamond professional.

 

[The_JV]

The answer you're looking for is already in use in the corner block of the Diamond professional.

That would make a ton of sense. Diamond must have developed a solution.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with a professional model, and closest room would be over an hour away. That might just be a personal record for driving distance just to look up something's skirt...lol

If it weren't for the gap I'm trying to deal with. The miter bolts would be the best solution I think. They might still be the best choice depending on how I deal with that gap.

 

[realkingcobra]

I knew I would be addressing it at a later date so I didn't put a ton of effort in installing the caps at an even height. 3 corners are below .25", but one is right around ~.28

I may have enough material kicking around to fill in the bare minimum of the voids. Outer edge if you will. That would allow me to use a simpler bracket or bolt system to hold things together. I don't have a ton of time finishing wood though. Not entirely sure how the seams and varying grain would blend, if at all...?

The answer you're looking for is already in use in the corner block of the Diamond professional.

That would make a ton of sense. Diamond must have developed a solution.

Unfortunately, I don't know anyone with a professional model, and closest room would be over an hour away. That might just be a personal record for driving distance just to look up something's skirt...lol

If it weren't for the gap I'm trying to deal with. The miter bolts would be the best solution I think. They might still be the best choice depending on how I deal with that gap.

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