Squaring up Point Block

Cheez Dawg

Cheez Dawg

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Silver Member
I know there must be a few ways to square up a block of wood to be used for points to fit tightly into the V - grooves in the forearm.
I wanted to know how some of you are squaring them up.
I have Chris Hightower's DVD set, but I also wanted some different ideas on how to do it.
If you would rather reply via PM go ahead!
I just want some different ideas to try, then use the one that suits me the best.
Thanks in advance!!:grin:
 
Squaring point stock

I use the method Chris describes in his book. I built a sanding fence for my Delta belt sander and sand them square.
 
I've only prepped a few so far, but I watched Chris's and Joe Barrenger's ways of doing it. It really comes down to the equipment that you have or are willing to buy, and the type of wood. I have done a set on a tabletop belt sander, but it was a soft wood. I tried a set of Laos rosewood the same way but it didn't work well due to the hardness of the wood. I now have a 4" jointer, and it seems to do it well. Joe used a planer and a drum sander in his video, which does good, but cost $$$$ to get. Hope this helps, good luck
Dave
 
I've tried the planer method, but the trouble with that is there is a lot of vibration with those small pieces.

What I do it take the 1.5" square and cut it in 1/2 using my bandsaw. Now I have 2 pieces of wood approximately 1.5" x .75" x 8". I only need one of these for 4 points. I take the piece I'm using and put it through the planer or drum sander (depending on the type of wood) so both of the wide sides are flat. I then have my router table set up with a straight bit and shave the sides until they are square with the top and bottom.

I then take the piece back to the bandsaw and cut the 1.5" side in 1/2 again. Now I have 2 pieces roughly .75" square. I go back to the planer or drum sander and run them through with fresh cut side up (square side down). I plane these down and make them perfect squares.

Then back over to the bandsaw and run them through using the skew jig I bought from Bob Dzuicky and that gives me 4 perfect points.

The whole process might take a total of 10-15 minutes.

As dave mentioned, you need a planer and drum sander. Planers aren't that expensive. You only need a small portable one. Drum sanders have come down a lot in price. If you're going to put any burls or woods with a lot of birds eyes in your points, you must have one or the points are going to come out looking like garbage.
 
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Cheez Dawg said:
I know there must be a few ways to square up a block of wood to be used for points to fit tightly into the V - grooves in the forearm.
I wanted to know how some of you are squaring them up.
I have Chris Hightower's DVD set, but I also wanted some different ideas on how to do it.
If you would rather reply via PM go ahead!
I just want some different ideas to try, then use the one that suits me the best.
Thanks in advance!!:grin:
Click to expand...

Taig Micro Mill

Dale
 
I haven't started making cues yet, but being a machinst for the last 25 years, I can say tony's way is going to be the most accurate, if you wanted to subsitute having to set up a router, you could make a fixture up that would clamp and hold the 2 flat sides ( like a grinding vise ) and then just run that thru the drum sander , then remove from vise and do final side

Mark
 
Yes Dale's way would def be just as accurate, I did not see a post then relized he was saying he puts it in his vise and mills it square,
Tony, do you think a planer is necessary or would just a drum sander be enough, I was concerned that the sand paper might wear out too fast if i didn't plane it first as well as worrying the wax coating on the wood from suppliers clogging up the belt ?
Thanks
Mark
 
I usually plane it first, even on Burls. I don't use the drum sander until the end. Thuya burl is super delicate though, so I only use the drum sander for that.
 
I use a planer, jointer, table saw and band saw. Soon to use a router in my mill.

Join(t) one side of your large square flat with the bed of your jointer-away from the fence- then use that flat side against the fence (fence must be perfectly square-I use a machinist square to do that)

Once you get a good 90 deg. corner, put the (2) flats down on the bed of your planer and mill the rough opposing surfaces flat and square.

One peice of advice using planers and jointers- grain direction is VERY important to reduce tear-out and I wet some woods LIGHTLY with a damp sponge. (old woodworking technique;) ) Nice coat of wax on your tables as welland your baldes can NEVER be too sharp.

Good luck!
-Chris
 
20+ years with a table saw and sandpaper. Perfect every time and with a band saw you get 8 points from a 1.25' square.
 
Wow! I never thought there would be so many different ways people would do this.
Thanks for all the great replies and ideas. Keep 'em coming!:thumbup:
 
> Anyone thought about using a fly-cutter?

As long as the head on your mill is square to the table,and the back jaw of the vise is square to the X travel,it has no choice but to be square. Tommy D.
 
Pete Tonkin's Jig for Squaring Up Points Etc.

Cheez Dawg said:
I know there must be a few ways to square up a block of wood to be used for points to fit tightly into the V - grooves in the forearm.
I wanted to know how some of you are squaring them up.
I have Chris Hightower's DVD set, but I also wanted some different ideas on how to do it.
If you would rather reply via PM go ahead!
I just want some different ideas to try, then use the one that suits me the best.
Thanks in advance!!:grin:
Click to expand...

Here is a wonderful jig by Pete Tonkin for squaring up points and beveling veneers. Two for the price of one. Good Job in my opinion.

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=101367
 
Belt sander with coarse belt and fence is the way I have done it for years. A planer or drum sander only gets the piece flat on opposite sides. Which would be good start. But a jointer would do the same as a sander. But I just like being able to put the pressure and rotate. I found I might cut a little deeper on the ends with a jointer, so I sold it.
 
cueman said:
"a planer or drum sander only gets the piece flat on opposite sides".QUOTE]

This is why I joint one surface of the square flat w/ no fence. Then I take that flat side and put it up against the fence- taking small passes until it is flat. If your fence and table on your jointer are square to eachother- you will get (1) 90deg. corner at this point. Take and run this thru your planer (or sander) with one of the jointed surfaces flat against your bed- and now you have parallel sides, rotate and put the other jointed surface flat on the bed of your sander/planer- and you get a perfect square everytime:wink:

One good thing about using a sander- no tear-out and a good surface for glue. Routers can produce the same results IMO.

A lot of work just to cut up with a saw in the end, but...


"There is more than one way to skin a cat" :smile:
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BarenbruggeCues said:
milling machine..............
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The only way to fly. There is a big difference between 4-90 degree corners, and 4-90 degree corners with equal length sides. Maybe not on point stock, but in other things it's important.
 
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