Stainless Steel join is buggin me
- Thread starter 9Ballr
- Start date
I think the poster who suggested cutting a finger from a glove hit the nail on the head. Cheap, reversible, no sticky residue, and quickly removed. No damage to your cue at all.
I never had the problem but I would think it's partly mental. If you're focused on your target nothing else exists. But if you thinks it's a problem than it is.
I never had the problem but I would think it's partly mental. If you're focused on your target nothing else exists. But if you thinks it's a problem than it is.
Yes, I'm going to try the glove thing.
I never notice this unless I lay down very low and I'm sure over time
it's become psychological.
However it is bugging the hell out of me and I'm gonna try cutting off
a player's glove. I never use mine, hate using that thing.
Next cue will certainly have a plastic joint or something that doesn't shine.
If the glove won't work I'll do some sanding. I could care less about this cue
and have no intention to sell it. By now it's had so much stuff done to it that
there's hardly anything original left on it anyway. So too late to even think about
selling it.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
I never notice this unless I lay down very low and I'm sure over time
it's become psychological.
However it is bugging the hell out of me and I'm gonna try cutting off
a player's glove. I never use mine, hate using that thing.
Next cue will certainly have a plastic joint or something that doesn't shine.
If the glove won't work I'll do some sanding. I could care less about this cue
and have no intention to sell it. By now it's had so much stuff done to it that
there's hardly anything original left on it anyway. So too late to even think about
selling it.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Simple buy a cue wiht a wood wood joint. Presto, problem solved.
Wrap some black 600 wet or dry sandpaper around a "Pink Pearl" eraser. The eraser will be your sanding block.
Add a single drop of oil to the paper and sand in the direction of the curve. It'll give a gorgeous semi-matte finish which will look just like a factory designed collar.
Wrap masking tape around the cue to prevent scratching the wood.
If you decide later to go back to the high gloss, buy a tube of Flitz Metal Polish and in ten minutes you'll be back to a very, very high gloss. Stainless shines like crazy. Here's a link. Available at most marine supply stores locally. http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/
Add a single drop of oil to the paper and sand in the direction of the curve. It'll give a gorgeous semi-matte finish which will look just like a factory designed collar.
Wrap masking tape around the cue to prevent scratching the wood.
If you decide later to go back to the high gloss, buy a tube of Flitz Metal Polish and in ten minutes you'll be back to a very, very high gloss. Stainless shines like crazy. Here's a link. Available at most marine supply stores locally. http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/
Thanks I will try this.
I tried the glove solution today and it didn't work. It slides all over the place and I have to constantly be putting it back.
This sounds good.
its still gonna be blue, but its classier than painters tape
Dykem marking fluid will turn that stainless non-reflective, and if you ever peddle the cue, Dykem removal fluid and a light buffing with jewlers rouge will bring the finish right back up. No marks, no scratches, no marring.
(Will it stick to stainless? You bet! Machinists don't call it 'marking fluid', they call it 'steel dye' .)
Dykem marking fluid will turn that stainless non-reflective, and if you ever peddle the cue, Dykem removal fluid and a light buffing with jewlers rouge will bring the finish right back up. No marks, no scratches, no marring.
(Will it stick to stainless? You bet! Machinists don't call it 'marking fluid', they call it 'steel dye' .)
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The oil mixes with the black of the sandpaper and it provides a super smooth scratch less finish.
Just enough oil to produce the black residue. Cover your cue well 'cause it can get a tad messy if you put more than a drop on the surface of the paper.
It'll automatically disperse itself uniformly over the entire sandpaper area.
This is a tip from a friend of mine who is a gun engraver. You won't be disappointed.
I'd go as far as to recommend wrapping the cue in a bath towel in addition to masking the wood at the work site 'cause your hands will become oily and it's easy to inadvertently grab the cue's wrap, etc.
Just enough oil to produce the black residue. Cover your cue well 'cause it can get a tad messy if you put more than a drop on the surface of the paper.
It'll automatically disperse itself uniformly over the entire sandpaper area.
This is a tip from a friend of mine who is a gun engraver. You won't be disappointed.
I'd go as far as to recommend wrapping the cue in a bath towel in addition to masking the wood at the work site 'cause your hands will become oily and it's easy to inadvertently grab the cue's wrap, etc.
Sell the cue and switch to wood to wood. The best cues are wood the wood joint. It gives the best hit and the greatest feel.
Get a head like Mike Dechaine's and no light will ever reach the stainless joint when you are leaning over it; it's like nature's umbrella!
Seriously though, don't do anything that could damage the cue. The glove trick or the scotch tape sound the best so far. Honestly, in my stance my chin is roughly over the joint area of the cue, I have no idea how you can notice this especially when focusing on the contact point of the object ball.
Seriously though, don't do anything that could damage the cue. The glove trick or the scotch tape sound the best so far. Honestly, in my stance my chin is roughly over the joint area of the cue, I have no idea how you can notice this especially when focusing on the contact point of the object ball.
I thought about your dilemma last evening and also thought of using this.
http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/20...ode=10INGOPB&gclid=CJqF24HjpbkCFexDMgodOHcASQ
You can find it at Lowes or Depot. It's c. 1.4" thick foam. This may prove a bit less messy than the 600 and oil.
I'm thinking this would give you more of a brushed stainless look if merely rotated around the joint.
600 and oil gives killer results, but I'd hate to see you get any absorbed into the adjacent wood if you don't do a bulletproof job of masking and protecting the cue.
Concerns of resale value are duly noted, but as long as you don't round any edges, or hurriedly and carelessly create sanding irregularities, you can bring it back to the cue-maker's specs in short order.
http://www.woodcraft.com/PRODUCT/20...ode=10INGOPB&gclid=CJqF24HjpbkCFexDMgodOHcASQ
You can find it at Lowes or Depot. It's c. 1.4" thick foam. This may prove a bit less messy than the 600 and oil.
I'm thinking this would give you more of a brushed stainless look if merely rotated around the joint.
600 and oil gives killer results, but I'd hate to see you get any absorbed into the adjacent wood if you don't do a bulletproof job of masking and protecting the cue.
Concerns of resale value are duly noted, but as long as you don't round any edges, or hurriedly and carelessly create sanding irregularities, you can bring it back to the cue-maker's specs in short order.
Me too. Sounds like the focus at the table isn't where it should be. I get down low over my cue, and never see the joint.
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Maybe he just had his eyes dilated at his opthamologist? lol
I don't get it either....
Never faced this problem when I was using ss joint cues. Anyway, all the tapes and paint suggestions, I realized no one suggested stickers. Could use carbon fiber look-a-like stickers that people use on cars. Just one of the possibilities
Send the cue to a good repair guy and have him mill it down and sleeve over it with Ivory or Ivorene makes a great hitting joint shouldn't cost that much
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