Shoot with it. If you like it, then that's all that matters.
As far as how it is identified so quickly, the joint type is the first most obvious thing.
That joint type has only been used on inexpensive cues.
The shaft wood is pretty poor. It may even be ramin wood instead of maple but I need a better pic to tell for sure. Ramin was commonly used in inexpensive cues but is now itself endangered in fact.
The ring type and materials is also common in this type of cue.
The splice type and veneers, also common in this type of cue.
You mention the bumper. Bumpers and screws like that were commonly used on inexpensive imports. Better cues usually use machine screws, bolts, with socket heads. Many antique cues and/or house cues used common wood screws.
There are a very great many inexpensive imports that were made with real splices, real veneers, real inlays. It is a mistake to think that such cues did not include such features. I have seen a few "converted" with an upgraded joint and shaft etc.
Some cues like this were branded by Brunswick, can be very fancy, and can attract some higher pricing. Lately they have been selling for over $200 on Ebay, only because they are Brunswick branded. I am not sure why except to say that some see them and figure they are better because they are Brunswick branded, but they are really just inexpensive imports. If yours had a brunswick badge on it you could throw it on Ebay and get something for it.
Even without the Brunswick branding some will attract some money on Ebay occasionally. Like in the $100 to $200 range. I think these are "Ebay collectors". People that don't really know anything about cues and they seem to create their own market for such cues.
I promise it is for sure what people here have said it is. It will hit balls, but just about any bottom end sneaky pete will be better, and any bottom end merry widow from McDermott, Viking, Schmelke, etc will be better. Even many very inexpensive imports will be better, like an Action brand cue or something.
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