My question involves the general geometry of the break cue shaft.
I have heard that you want a break cue with a whippy/springy (probably smaller diameter then the thicker/stiffer shafts used on some break cues) shaft because that would allow the springiness/whippiness of that shaft to further accelerate the cue ball upon the spring straightening out after the initial hit (the pole vaulters pole used as an analogy). This is also part of the theory behind Willee Cue's Texas Jackhammer ferrule (
http://willeecue.com/Breakferrule.html)
Versus the traditional 'shaft like a tree trunk' break cue.
I'd be most interested to hear the arguments on both sides.
Thanks in advance.
What you heard came from someone that has little understanding of the basic physics behind pool cues and hitting a ball. The first idea you need to better understand this is a correct understanding of the types of forces involved. You basically have 3 types of forces that might act on a shaft: torsional, flexural, and compression. Torsional refers to the shaft *twisting*, like the kind of pressure you would experience trying to screw in a screw using your shaft as a screwdriver. This plays almost NO role in most situations involving pool cues, so lets put that aside. Flexural strength refers to the ability of the shaft to both resist bending, resist breaking, and return to its original shape. There are specific terms to refer to each of these specific things, but we don't need to go into that. This flexural strength will vary a fair amount from shaft to shaft. The qualities you are talking about regarding a thin whippy shaft vs. a fat stiff shaft would totally fall under this category. Now if we hit pool balls with a baseball swing and the side of the cue, this would be important. But we don't. We hit them straight on with the tip, which in theory produces very little flex in the shaft. What *does* flex the shaft is hitting the cueball off center, and hitting the bed of the table and bending the shaft around your bridge. I believe, however, that if you look at high speed film of balls being hit, and do some research, these forces have very little to do with the resulting speed of the cue ball. Remember that the tip is in contact with the ball for something like 1/1000th of a second or less. During that time, the shaft may bend to to side if you hit the ball off center, but the ball is LONG GONE before the shaft snaps back to its original straight shape. SO I must tell you that these qualities will not have any noticeable effect on the speed of the cue ball.
The final type of force I mentioned is compression force. This is absolutely relevant to a pool cue hitting a ball. This force is all about the way the tip compresses at impact (essentially becoming "shorter" for an instant). This compression transfers to the ferrule and moves like a wave down the length of the shaft. Think of laying a slinky on its side on a table, slightly stretched out. If you whack one end of the slinky with a ruler, you will see a compression wave travel along the length of the slinky. This effect will be determined by many variables. The most important of these would include: tip hardness and elasticity, ferrule construction and material, woods used...to a much lesser degree the diameter of the shaft may play a tiny role in this, but I highly doubt it would be anything significant. Without question the tip will be # 1 and the ferrule # 2. The general rule of thumb is that a harder tip imparts *more speed* to the cueball. The same would be true for a harder ferrule material, denser harder shaft wood, etc. The more energy that is spent compressing these materials, the less energy is left to propel the cue ball forward.
Hence in summary, your best bet in shopping for a break cue *with the goal of increased power* would be to observe these ideas:
1) Get a shaft diameter that is comfortable to you. This will let you swing that cue faster. The better the cue feels, the more comfortable and confident you will be really laying into it and swinging fast.
2) Get the hardest tip you can. Personally, I like a tip/ferrule combination that has just a little bit of give to it. I feel this gives me better feel and control, though may rob me of a couple of tenths of a mile per hour in speed, which is irrelevant to me. A phenolic tip will almost always produce more cueball speed than a leather tip, all other things being equal.
3) Get a weight that allows you to produce the greatest momentum. By momentum I mean the combination of speed and weight. A heavy cue moving medium fast might have a similar momentum to a light cue moving very fast. You must experiment with this. I think for the vast majority of humans, a cue in the 18.5-19.5 weight will yield a great balance in this regard, and allow one to get close to his or her top speed while maintaining good "mass", thus producing a lot of momentum.
Now, that all addresses how to get *speed* out of your break cue. If you want to break *good*, that is a different conversation.
Hope this helps,
KMRUNOUT