Straight Pool Players:

[Dan White]

I have to admit this post is directed toward those of you who can run about 100 balls, but I hope anybody will feel free to respond.

What is the short list of advice you wish you knew years before you actually learned it? In other words, what really made a jump in your game that got you from the 2-3-4 routine rack runs to the 5-6-7 routine runs? I guess you can guess where my game is.

I can think of a few things along the way that really boosted my game:

1. Realizing that you MUST know exactly where the cue ball is going on natural follow shots.
2. Realizing that you have to be able to hit the cue ball precisely…that english less than 1/8 of a tip can spell disaster for position play if you didn’t want it.
3. Breaking down speed control into several standard increments gave a good guideline for judging how hard to hit a shot.
4. Pick out which 4 or 5 balls you are going to leave on the table last, and do this when there are still twice that many balls on the table. (assuming there are no significant problems left to clear up).

I do realize that sometimes it is just "do everything better." But I have found that there is usually something that still made a big difference somewhere along the line. What comes to mind that really did it for you?

Thanks for any input,
dwhite

 

[sjm]

For me, the advice I was given that brought my game to a higher level was to be more attentive to which part of the rack I hit on my break shots, not just the break shots that begin a rack, but also the ones that arise during the rack.

I had already been playing pool for 27 years when a close friend, who also happens to be a professional pool player, noted that I could do a better job in this area, and for the last 10 years, I have been very attentive to this principle.

 

[Dan White]

For me, the advice I was given that brought my game to a higher level was to be more attentive to which part of the rack I hit on my break shots, not just the break shots that begin a rack, but also the ones that arise during the rack.

I recognized that in my own game, too. Being able to hit a pack precisely is what made me realize that I needed work on knowing exactly where the cue ball was going on follow shots. So, it helped not just for opening up clusters, but for all shots. Now I'm trying to figure out where the important balls are going (including the cue ball) after I hit the cluster. Do you do this, or just separate the cluster with enough speed that you won't be snookered too easily?

thanks,
dwhite

 

[sjm]

I recognized that in my own game, too. Being able to hit a pack precisely is what made me realize that I needed work on knowing exactly where the cue ball was going on follow shots. So, it helped not just for opening up clusters, but for all shots. Now I'm trying to figure out where the important balls are going (including the cue ball) after I hit the cluster. Do you do this, or just separate the cluster with enough speed that you won't be snookered too easily?

thanks,
dwhite

Here, I can do no better than quote Babe Cranfield. In his classic "The Straight Pool Bible" which every straight pool lover MUST own, on Page 94, Babe notes:

"You have made a successful break shot when you a) make the called ball, b) separate balls from the rack, and c) free the cue ball from the rack. Your objectives should be no more and no less. If you accomplish less than all three of these goals, you have probably ended your inning."

My philosophy is pretty much the same as that advocated by Babe. Focus on accomplishing these three things, and you won't have much else to think about.

 

[curlyscues]

Here, I can do no better than quote Babe Cranfield. In his classic "The Straight Pool Bible" which every straight pool lover MUST own, on Page 94, Babe notes:

"You have made a successful break shot when you a) make the called ball, b) separate balls from the rack, and c) free the cue ball from the rack. Your objectives should be no more and no less. If you accomplish less than all three of these goals, you have probably ended your inning."

My philosophy is pretty much the same as that advocated by Babe. Focus on accomplishing these three things, and you won't have much else to think about.

very good advice. there is no worse feeling in straight pool than to end a good run because you froze your cueball up against the rack with no shot.
M.C.

 

[Jimmy M.]

I find that I'm breaking up clusters a little softer than I had been previously. Instead of really trying to knock them all out in the open, I'm more concerned with just loosening them up enough so that, hopefully, a couple of them will be knocked into a position where they can be pocketed and I am able to control my cue ball better. I also try to be aware of the fact that, after the break, you only have 13 shots and, more often than not, some of those shots must be used to break up clusters and/or get to problem balls. With that in mind, you really have to go to work early and try to get the most out of each shot. I used to try to pick out little mini-patterns to get to a cluster but I found that, quite often, I'd run out of balls before I could get to all of my problems. Now I'll play those little mini-patterns when they're there, but I am also looking for shots that might yield a greater return using less balls. This is a point that is also discussed in Cranfield's book (the idea of going to work early).

 

[renard]

For me, the advice I was given that brought my game to a higher level was to be more attentive to which part of the rack I hit on my break shots, not just the break shots that begin a rack, but also the ones that arise during the rack.

I had already been playing pool for 27 years when a close friend, who also happens to be a professional pool player, noted that I could do a better job in this area, and for the last 10 years, I have been very attentive to this principle.

Wow, this quote says it all. When I'm breaking good I'm playing good. Problem is I still need much practice in breaking...

 

[Dan White]

My philosophy is pretty much the same as that advocated by Babe. Focus on accomplishing these three things, and you won't have much else to think about.

Yes, I have the book, and thanks for reminding me of it. It's probably time for me to reread it. In this section he is talking about breaking into the next full rack. But, how much do you figure ball paths when you are breaking a cluster of say 6 balls? Here's one situation where it is pretty obvious as to what the next shot will be. It should be the 4 ball. I'm interested in what you care to know about all the other balls, too, if anything.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4CFrj3DDGB4...aCPQ3cCIP3cGIf4fAlS3fAmS4kUUg4kIdc4kEtA3kBQP@

dwhite

 

[sjm]

I also try to be aware of the fact that, after the break, you only have 13 shots and, more often than not, some of those shots must be used to break up clusters and/or get to problem balls. With that in mind, you really have to go to work early and try to get the most out of each shot. I used to try to pick out little mini-patterns to get to a cluster but I found that, quite often, I'd run out of balls before I could get to all of my problems. Now I'll play those little mini-patterns when they're there, but I am also looking for shots that might yield a greater return using less balls. This is a point that is also discussed in Cranfield's book (the idea of going to work early).

Right on, Jimmy. The principle of "going to work early" is criticial. Many a run ends because a problem has been left lying around for too long.

 

[sjm]

Yes, I have the book, and thanks for reminding me of it. It's probably time for me to reread it. In this section he is talking about breaking into the next full rack. But, how much do you figure ball paths when you are breaking a cluster of say 6 balls? Here's one situation where it is pretty obvious as to what the next shot will be. It should be the 4 ball. I'm interested in what you care to know about all the other balls, too, if anything.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4CFrj3DDGB4...aCPQ3cCIP3cGIf4fAlS3fAmS4kUUg4kIdc4kEtA3kBQP@

dwhite

Here, you can't go full steam into the rack, so you're playing for control. That's good to see. You have recognized the hidden value of the eleven ball, and that's good, too. You've accurately noted that the four should come out, but the hardest part of the shot is playing shape on to it. This means deciding how much of the packs's corner ball to hit and what speed to use. The four may end up being too low to be a good break ball, but if you execute your plan, you'll have an option to play form the four to the eleven, using the eleven to open the cluster.

 

[eales]

Looks like they might end up like this...

Yes, I have the book, and thanks for reminding me of it. It's probably time for me to reread it. In this section he is talking about breaking into the next full rack. But, how much do you figure ball paths when you are breaking a cluster of say 6 balls? Here's one situation where it is pretty obvious as to what the next shot will be. It should be the 4 ball. I'm interested in what you care to know about all the other balls, too, if anything.

http://CueTable.com/P/?@4CFrj3DDGB4...aCPQ3cCIP3cGIf4fAlS3fAmS4kUUg4kIdc4kEtA3kBQP@

dwhite

http://CueTable.com/P/?@3DNrS4ECIE3FCXS3HGIj3KANY3PCWN@

From where I would shoot the 4 and follow for an angle on the 11 to bump the five out. If I hit it well I'll have the 8 in the top-left corner and the 6 in the bottom-right corner or the bottom side for a key ball.

However, I am either shooting many too many shots that are less than 90% for me or ending a rack like this to run more than a couple of racks.

Jim Eales

 

[Wally in Cincy]

Right on, Jimmy. The principle of "going to work early" is criticial. Many a run ends because a problem has been left lying around for too long.

Many times I have neglected a 2-ball cluster on the rail only to have the indignation of having those 2 balls as the last 2 on the table. Ya live and learn they say

and Babe Cranfield's book is awesome.

 

[tedkaufman]

My list of critical shots and strategies for straight pool are:

1. Learn to stun the cueball, including stop, slide stun, stun follow and stun draw.
2. Always try to keep a protection shot when you break secondary clusters, so that you don't have to hit them too hard, driving balls all over.
3. Never run into balls without a purpose. Yes, it's often necessary to reposition a ball for a break shot or key ball. That said, avoid unnecessarily hitting balls that have a clear pocket.
4. Keep a key ball, but also keep a key to the key ball. If you have a good pattern to the penultimate key ball, you can play zone position on that ball to ensure a simple shot on the key ball. The last three balls of a rack you have to be increasingly precise, but you don't need 3 stop shots.
5. SJM and others have mentioned getting the cueball free on the breakshots. That is critical. A tip given me by a great straight pool player named George Mikula helped me a lot in this respect: Observe the ball in the rack the cueball will hit (standard breakshot). Then decide if the cueball will hit the top or the bottom of that ball. If it's going to hit the top of the ball, do not draw it hard or you will wind up up-table on the Brunswick. Instead, use a stun shot or follow, depending on the acuteness of the angle (sharp angle, use follow, shallow angle, use stun). If the angle is such that the cueball with hit the bottom of the ball in the rack, you can draw it as hard as you want and it won't run away.
6. Practice carom shots. They can bail you out of trouble when your situation appears hopeless. Also, consider multiple ball caroms. Straight pool is a terrifically creative game. Every great straight pool player I've ever known has been imaginative. Read Ray Martin's 99 Critical Shots for inspiration.

 

[BigCat]

With that in mind, you really have to go to work early and try to get the most out of each shot. I used to try to pick out little mini-patterns to get to a cluster but I found that, quite often, I'd run out of balls before I could get to all of my problems. Now I'll play those little mini-patterns when they're there, but I am also looking for shots that might yield a greater return using less balls. This is a point that is also discussed in Cranfield's book (the idea of going to work early).

Agreed. This is probably the most important/crucial issue in straight pool. There will ALWAYS be clusters and problem areas and knowing how and when to deal with them will elevate your game and your high run.

 

[rikdee]

Two more points to consider:
>Learn to read the stack. Become proficient at finding dead balls. Some are obvious, some aren't. Always check the stack each time is has been disturbed.
>Learn the several classic, lock-up safeties that are available with a full rack. Given an out of position break ball, one can often take the count and play to a position to execute a very effective safety.

 

[DJKeys]

Great Information-

My list of critical shots and strategies for straight pool are:

1. Learn to stun the cueball, including stop, slide stun, stun follow and stun draw.
2. Always try to keep a protection shot when you break secondary clusters, so that you don't have to hit them too hard, driving balls all over.
3. Never run into balls without a purpose. Yes, it's often necessary to reposition a ball for a break shot or key ball. That said, avoid unnecessarily hitting balls that have a clear pocket.
4. Keep a key ball, but also keep a key to the key ball. If you have a good pattern to the penultimate key ball, you can play zone position on that ball to ensure a simple shot on the key ball. The last three balls of a rack you have to be increasingly precise, but you don't need 3 stop shots.
5. SJM and others have mentioned getting the cueball free on the breakshots. That is critical. A tip given me by a great straight pool player named George Mikula helped me a lot in this respect: Observe the ball in the rack the cueball will hit (standard breakshot). Then decide if the cueball will hit the top or the bottom of that ball. If it's going to hit the top of the ball, do not draw it hard or you will wind up up-table on the Brunswick. Instead, use a stun shot or follow, depending on the acuteness of the angle (sharp angle, use follow, shallow angle, use stun). If the angle is such that the cueball with hit the bottom of the ball in the rack, you can draw it as hard as you want and it won't run away.
6. Practice carom shots. They can bail you out of trouble when your situation appears hopeless. Also, consider multiple ball caroms. Straight pool is a terrifically creative game. Every great straight pool player I've ever known has been imaginative. Read Ray Martin's 99 Critical Shots for inspiration.

Especially # 3. I see players all the time breaking up clusters that don't need to be hit because all of the balls can be made without moving them. If you move them, they can always get in much worse postions then they already are. Once the balls are open, don't disturb them, just move around them and make them where they lie and clear the table. It has only happened a few times for me, but it is a great feeling when you open a rack and just position the CB so that you do not run into any balls for the entire inning, and just pocket them all where they lie.

 

[Slim J]

One thing that I always felt very important is the ball that preceeds the 'key ball'. I call it the 'key to the key'. Alot of players are aware of it but it seems to not get discussed as much as the 'key ball'. If that ball is well chosen its a huge factor in how easy and accurate you will be at making the key ball & getting position on the break shot.

I once read that the most critical area in 14.1 where runs usually end is the transition from one rank to the next (that holds true for top players as well). That is from the key ball of the previous rack to the first or second ball after the break shot in the next rack. Anything that increases the percentages to successfuly negotate that part of the game is super important.

Also, I've seen many intermediate players play for a key ball that is exactly on line between the two side pockets on the same side of the rack that the break ball is on. The problem there is you must be exactly straight in when getting shape on that key ball or position on the break ball gets very tricky and your forced to go 2 or three rails. BUT if you use side pocket key balls that are a few inches to one side or the other of the side pocket and at least 4 to to 5 inches from the rail it allows a huge margin of error in getting on the break shot.

 

[VIProfessor]

My list of critical shots and strategies for straight pool are:

1. Learn to stun the cueball, including stop, slide stun, stun follow and stun draw.
2. Always try to keep a protection shot when you break secondary clusters, so that you don't have to hit them too hard, driving balls all over.
3. Never run into balls without a purpose. Yes, it's often necessary to reposition a ball for a break shot or key ball. That said, avoid unnecessarily hitting balls that have a clear pocket.
4. Keep a key ball, but also keep a key to the key ball. If you have a good pattern to the penultimate key ball, you can play zone position on that ball to ensure a simple shot on the key ball. The last three balls of a rack you have to be increasingly precise, but you don't need 3 stop shots.
5. SJM and others have mentioned getting the cueball free on the breakshots. That is critical. A tip given me by a great straight pool player named George Mikula helped me a lot in this respect: Observe the ball in the rack the cueball will hit (standard breakshot). Then decide if the cueball will hit the top or the bottom of that ball. If it's going to hit the top of the ball, do not draw it hard or you will wind up up-table on the Brunswick. Instead, use a stun shot or follow, depending on the acuteness of the angle (sharp angle, use follow, shallow angle, use stun). If the angle is such that the cueball with hit the bottom of the ball in the rack, you can draw it as hard as you want and it won't run away.
6. Practice carom shots. They can bail you out of trouble when your situation appears hopeless. Also, consider multiple ball caroms. Straight pool is a terrifically creative game. Every great straight pool player I've ever known has been imaginative. Read Ray Martin's 99 Critical Shots for inspiration.

Great post! I especially needed to see #5, since that's where I've been having most of my problems lately. I've been clearing the racks in the right way, but all too often I've been failing to control the cue ball properly on the break, leading to you know what--prematurely ended runs.