Stuck tenon

SK Custom Cues

SK Custom Cues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have once again broken off a tenon in my tenon threader. :mad: The last time I did that, I drilled it out and I dulled the threads on the tenon threader.

I just got a new one and don't want to ruin that one. I need some help with ideas on how to get it out.

Thanks in advance.

Sung
 
SK Custom Cues said:
I have once again broken off a tenon in my tenon threader. :mad: The last time I did that, I drilled it out and I dulled the threads on the tenon threader.

I just got a new one and don't want to ruin that one. I need some help with ideas on how to get it out.

Thanks in advance.

Sung
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If it is the type with the slots up the side, you should be able to get a razor knife in there and slowly cut it out.
 
SK Custom Cues said:
I have once again broken off a tenon in my tenon threader. :mad: The last time I did that, I drilled it out and I dulled the threads on the tenon threader.

I just got a new one and don't want to ruin that one. I need some help with ideas on how to get it out.

Thanks in advance.

Sung
Click to expand...

Is it an aluminum or steel threader? I had problems with an aluminum one and I bought a steel one and have not had any problems.

I was having the same problem and a cuemaker told me if i switched to a steel threader I should not have any more problems and I havnt.
 
ftgokie said:
Is it an aluminum or steel threader? I had problems with an aluminum one and I bought a steel one and have not had any problems.

I was having the same problem and a cuemaker told me if i switched to a steel threader I should not have any more problems and I havnt.
Click to expand...

Who is it who makes the steel one? I have bought an aluminum one and made a aluminum one and don't like the performance of either one of them, although, I like mine better. The aluminum ones makes your hand black after using it so if you touch the shaft that oxidation gets into the wood.

Dick
 
I had the same problem with aluminum and started making mine out of brass.

Many of these things are not self aligning like mine are. That is the first problem. Unless they are self aligning you can cross thread easy and jam.

The next thing is make sure your tenon is small enough. It should be between .280" and .285". Never try .312".

Next problem is dry threading. Always use a little cue wax on the tenon before threading. Then thread two or three threads and break it lose, then repeat.

That is my take on using tenon threaders.
 
I got a brass one from Hightower I believe. It is far superior to the aluminum ones and slides on a pin you can mount in your tailstock drill chuck. I think mounting the pin in the tailstock to stay perfectly square to the workpiece is critical to keep them from snapping. I have not had one problem since going to this method.
 
cueman said:
I had the same problem with aluminum and started making mine out of brass.

Many of these things are not self aligning like mine are. That is the first problem. Unless they are self aligning you can cross thread easy and jam.

The next thing is make sure your tenon is small enough. It should be between .280" and .285". Never try .312".

Next problem is dry threading. Always use a little cue wax on the tenon before threading. Then thread two or three threads and break it lose, then repeat.

That is my take on using tenon threaders.
Click to expand...

We must have been typing at the same time.
 
rhncue said:
Who is it who makes the steel one? I have bought an aluminum one and made a aluminum one and don't like the performance of either one of them, although, I like mine better. The aluminum ones makes your hand black after using it so if you touch the shaft that oxidation gets into the wood.

Dick
Click to expand...

The person I bought it from makes them, he makes brass and stainless tenon threaders that are self centering and are alot easier to use
 
Tenon threaders are ok at best. I haven't tried a brass one but I suspect the lubrication properties of brass make it a superior material.

I'd reccomend getting a $300-$400 harbor freight lathe and equip it with a router & thread bit. Cutting threads with a router is something you'll love so much that you'll never use a tenon threader again. You may have $500 or so wrapped up in the dedicated tenon threading machine but it's well worth it. Mine is set and never gets adjusted. I slide the shaft in, thread the tenon & that's it, it's done. Once dialed in I never have to mess with anything. My set-up is a Jet lathe that I have around $1400 tied up in and it's totally worth every penny. I don't even do repairs, only build 15-20 cues per year and I think it's worth the cost having a dedicated tenon threader. The cleanliness, accuracy & solidity of the threads make all the difference to me.
 
Unique has the steel one. The brass one Chris sells is very good also. I use them both.
As stated the best way is to cut them with a router on the lathe clean crisp threads every time.
 
To answer your original question, take a small flat head screw driver and heat it red hot. Push it into the wood, it will burn it's way in. When it cools, you should be able to unscrew the tenon from the cutter. It might be possible to do this without the heat as well but that is how I was taught to deal with this type of thing when cutting wood and plastic threads. If it is being stuburn you can use the same technique to burn most of it out and then simply use a pick to get the remainder of it.
Hope this helps,
Trez
 
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I ended up using an awl and my utility knife and didn't get very far. I got pissed and picked up a blow torch. The wood inside disintegrated. :idea2:

Thank you everyone, for your help. I will someday move on to live threading, but as of now, I just ain't there yet.

I just finished my first cue today, and just came back from the pool hall. It is a joke really, but it actually hits like a champ. The OD on the collars didn't even match up right, but on the table, it rolled quite nicely despite it.

I have a whole new respect for cue makers after having completed my first cue.
 
SK Custom Cues said:
I ended up using an awl and my utility knife and didn't get very far. I got pissed and picked up a blow torch. The wood inside disintegrated. :idea2:

Thank you everyone, for your help. I will someday move on to live threading, but as of now, I just ain't there yet.

I just finished my first cue today, and just came back from the pool hall. It is a joke really, but it actually hits like a champ. The OD on the collars didn't even match up right, but on the table, it rolled quite nicely despite it.

I have a whole new respect for cue makers after having completed my first cue.
Click to expand...



I would like to see pics of that beauty....sweety :smile:
 
I bought a steel one from Atlas about 5 years ago. I agree with Chris. I cut my tennons to Ø.285, then use bees wax.
 
> I never broke one off with mine (Atlas),but wasn't as successful with it as I would have liked. What I did was open the threads up by running a standard H3 tap into it,then a H4 and H5 tap. The last tenon I threaded to experiment was .305 and it came out pretty clean,with just enough room for glue,and much nicer fit. I did use a paraffin wax block as Chris mentioned,and cleaned the tenon with denatured alcohol after.

I'm of the belief that stronger tenons=fewer headaches. I'd rather have a full tenon,and have to use an oversized tap to thread/retap the ferrule,than have a standard sized hole and smaller tenon. I'm also a fan of having enough of a thread to lock the ferrule down good.

This is powerfully demonstrated in Dz's cutaway pics,even though he is now using a different tenon style than the 5/16-18 we're discussing. Tommy D.
 
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Tommy-D said:
> I'm of the belief that stronger tenons=fewer headaches. I'd rather have a full tenon,and have to use an oversized tap to thread/retap the ferrule,than have a standard sized hole and smaller tenon. I'm also a fan of having enough of a thread to lock the ferrule down good.
Click to expand...

Which is exactly why my tenons are 3/8-10. I use robogrips to crank the ferrule on as tight as I can, and never worried about twisting the tenon off.
 
cueman said:
I had the same problem with aluminum and started making mine out of brass.

Many of these things are not self aligning like mine are. That is the first problem. Unless they are self aligning you can cross thread easy and jam.

The next thing is make sure your tenon is small enough. It should be between .280" and .285". Never try .312".

Next problem is dry threading. Always use a little cue wax on the tenon before threading. Then thread two or three threads and break it lose, then repeat.

That is my take on using tenon threaders.
Click to expand...


what he said. 280 and wax it up. cuts nice clean functional threads. i helped another azer out with this last month same method and his first own is perfect piece of cake....
 
I have a 1/4 inch thread cutting bit for my router that I got many years ago. Tried to make one but they didnt cut as well. This one is carbide but seems to be getting a little dull. I cant remember where I got it. Does anyone know a supplier for these? I was thinking about the 3/8 inch milling bit the outside threads but it would have to have a 1/4 inch shank for the router. Cuts a little deeper then the 1/4 inch. But for inside threads like in the shaft nothing beats the 1/4 inch. Makes perfect threads and straight. Only way to go.

Mark
 
I got a basic dovetail bit in the router and have the router slanted at 45 degrees from the lathe bed. It puts the tip of the dovetail bit at center to cut the 60 degree threads. Simplistic and cheap. I have a carbide thread mill bit with a 1/4" shank and I have two of them with 1/8" shank to fit a dremel, and I still use the dovetail bit because it's incredibly sharp and robust. I can also swap it out for about $15 with a new bit from the local hardware store. I don't grind internal threads with my tenon threading lathe, just ferrule tenons.
 
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