Sweet 3 rail kick system

supergreenman

supergreenman

truly addicted
Silver Member
I came across this 3 rail kick system a couple of weeks ago and have tried it out at several different places. This system is the cat's ass. Very easy to remember, no math required, the shot takes no time at all to set up and is deadly accurate.

If your OB is on the rail and you're blocked from hitting it, I'd say this system will give you an 60% chance of potting the ball, and a 95% chance of hitting it.

First thing you have to do is find the contact point you need in order to sink the ball in the corner then take that spot on the opposite side of the table and draw a line from there across the 2nd diamond on the same side of the table as the OB right to the wall, a chair another table or some point between 6-9 feet away from your table. fix that spot in your mind then move to the cueball and line it up for that spot and shoot with no running english

I showed this system to a couple of the guys at the hall and it took them less than a minute to figure it out and start making the kicks themselves.
 

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WOW! I just went downstairs to my table and sank three out of five tries! only missed the OB once!

Thanks Green-you-the-MAN!
 
I've been using this system as one of my 3 rail systems for at least 15 years. It is very accurate. The cool part about it is, you can move the cueball ANYWHERE and use the same spot on the wall. :)
 
rackmsuckr said:
I've been using this system as one of my 3 rail systems for at least 15 years. It is very accurate. The cool part about it is, you can move the cueball ANYWHERE and use the same spot on the wall. :)
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I agree, once I discovered this shot I impressed a lot of people by saying to lesser players that I'll play 1 on the '8' 3 on the 'cue' and al they have to do is make the 8 straight in.
 
Well the Cat is out of the Bag. That system is one of my secrets. I once made that shot and out, when i was hooked. I aimed it up into a hanging plant.:D
 
Grady showed me this a couple of years ago. Its amazing what can be made using this system. You are just seeing the tip of the iceberg so far. Let it develop for a couple of years and you can make some amazing shots.
 
A Variation on A Theme

I use a system really similar to this. Basically, if you have the CB in the jaws of one of the corner pockets and shoot with running english at the 2nd diamond it will go in the corner opposite where you shot from. If you shoot at the third diamond it will hit one diamond up the long rail from the target pocket and if you shoot at the first diamond it will hit about 1 diamond over on the short rail and so on. So you use a line from a corner through the appropriate diamond (or pocket) to find your point and shoot at that the same as Supergreenman says. Regardless, always nice to have another tool in the bag.
 
I will experiment with this and see how it goes... Don't know if I can aim up into a plant, however! Hahaha! That is great!

I saw another system that used numbers (of which I know there are a million) but this system was for when you HAD to make the ball... I never learned the system, but our leagues best player (the guy that actually showed the system on paper to me) used it on me in the year-end tourney when I had hooked him. It is deadly accurate.

He made his ball, but got unlucky with position, so I still won. Haha!
 
Someone I really respect was teaching me this system, but I was too green to pick it up. I'll give it another try pronto.

If it works, your a true Hero,
 
supergreenman said:
draw a line from there across the 2nd diamond on the same side of the table as the OB right to the wall, a chair another table or some point between 6-9 feet away from your table.
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Always 2nd diamond?

And in your drawing, you've chosen a wall that's 4-5ft away from the table. I assume that's actually not far enough or else you'll kick short?

Fred
 
Cornerman said:
Always 2nd diamond?

And in your drawing, you've chosen a wall that's 4-5ft away from the table. I assume that's actually not far enough or else you'll kick short?

Fred
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Hi Cornerman, yes, it's always the second diamond. Sorry my sketch there wasn't to scale, just pretend it's 6 feet away. ;) :D if you extend the line another scale foot, and the CB line the same amount, you'll see the difference in angle is almost non-existant.
 
supergreenman said:
Hi Cornerman, yes, it's always the second diamond. Sorry my sketch there wasn't to scale, just pretend it's 6 feet away. ;) :D if you extend the line another scale foot, and the CB line the same amount, you'll see the difference in angle is almost non-existant.
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Always the second diamond if the table is banking true and not long or short. Need to check each table and be sure it is true before starting play. May need to adjust depending on rails, cloth, etc, but once you find the point on a particular table, always use that point.

Both Jimmy Reid and Bert Kinister have variations of this system on videos.
Jimmy extends it to 4 and 5 rails kicks also.
 
The spot on the wall system has been used for years. There was a recent thread on this where players knew that certain hustlers would go into the tournaments and place spots all around the room. The other players would then go into the room and move the tables a few inches.

As posted earlier both Jimmy Reid and Kinister demonstrate this on their tapes.
 
I hate to be daft as I havent had the chance to try this system(the previous times I've seen it it only explained how to get to the corner pocket and not for random places).

2 questions though:

1: How would setting up spots help if the spot changed depending on where the contact point is(drawing a line from mirrored contact point through second diamond)?

2: This may sound stupid, but is there any reason that you need to use a spot? I mean I have a pretty good grasp on spatial relationships, is there any reason why I cant just pick out a spot in the air and then use that???

if using this method, which # of feet(6-9 but what is optimal, 7.5?) to place the spot?
 
That looks like a good system. Does anybody have a two rail kick system as easy as that one?
 
alstl said:
That looks like a good system. Does anybody have a two rail kick system as easy as that one?
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The parallel 2-rail kick system is easier, but it's not very accurate for a lot of angles. The "plus-2" system is fairly accurate but you may have to adjust the amount of running english you use. For long-rail-first two-rail shots, you can use the corner-5 system, but you have to get some experience with the contact point on the second cushion, which the corner-5 doesn't calculate directly.
 
but you have to get some experience with the contact point on the second cushion, which the corner-5 doesn't calculate directly.
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Can you explain this?

I've heard it before but I still don't understand.

I know a basic 3rail system(Jimmy Reid's site) as well as the basic 2/3 rail diamond system, and what I understand is basically only takes into account Aim, Cueball and object ball position.

I've never seen a diamond system that you need to calculate the second cushion for anything, as it was suppose to be taken care of in the O = C - A equation.

I guess I'm just misunderstanding how you would calc the second cushion and why....
 
MacGyver said:
Can you explain this?

I've heard it before but I still don't understand.

I know a basic 3rail system(Jimmy Reid's site) as well as the basic 2/3 rail diamond system, and what I understand is basically only takes into account Aim, Cueball and object ball position.

I've never seen a diamond system that you need to calculate the second cushion for anything, as it was suppose to be taken care of in the O = C - A equation.

I guess I'm just misunderstanding how you would calc the second cushion and why....
Click to expand...

I find that diamond systems(for the most part) are pretty relaible on on most tables for the first two rails. For instance 50-30=20.Cue ball posistion 50 minus first rail aim point 30 will take you two your object ball/rail 20 located on or near the 3rd rail.

After the 3rd rail however, things can change dramatically from table to table as the cue ball can shorten up due to various cloths, humidty, rails etc etc.

I've never used that 2nd cushion to calculate anything with two, three or four rail diamond system kicks.I just test each individual table with a few test kicks and then can pretty much tell how short it plays to the norm. Generally a table won'tplay long unless it has a new cloth.
RJ
 
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