AzB Silver Member
jondrums - 9':1.00, 11.9cm:0.95, 2.5cm:1.07, 4.2cm:1.00 - 1.02 (Diamond Professional)
I'm redoing all my rails and table soon and I'll take the measurements after it done if I can find a pro that is closer then 70mi away as it cost as much for him to show up as for the job. I'm located in kirkman Iowa do you know any mechanic in my areaThere's one important factor that isn't taken into account in this TDF calculator you have, and I know typically normal tables don't have this, but some weird made old tables do develop this thing which I call roundness of the ledge of pocket, this is very important, to me the rounder this ledge is, the harder and more difficult the table is, because essentially what happens is the table will hardly accept any shots especially those near the cushion.
I did experiment with this and to me my table which has a little rounded ledge (due to fatigue i think or misuses or whatever happened to this table for this to develop) is very much harder table than my friends which has smaller pockets, however my table will refuse shots that my friends table will accept.
Maybe you wont understand what I mean, but think of snooker pockets, do you see how rounded the edge of pockets left & right are and it is the reason why in snooker the balls which are closer to the rail will be regarded as safe or hard shots to make, this exactly what I'm talking about, now I know in billiards we don't have this roundness which is why the balls near the rail are actually easier to play, because in pool what we have is a pointy angle, like really pointy and thats why in pool the rail balls are easy, but as I said, some misused rails can have roundness to them and not the pointy type of edges, if your pocket is not pointy, then check how harder it is to pocket balls, thats all I'm saying.
Image will explain it better.
View attachment 577592View attachment 577593
I'm redoing all my rails and table soon and I'll take the measurements after it done if I can find a pro that is closer then 70mi away as it cost as much for him to show up as for the job. I'm located in kirkman Iowa do you know any mechanic in my area
I don't, but hopefully somebody in Iowa has some suggestions.I'm redoing all my rails and table soon and I'll take the measurements after it done if I can find a pro that is closer then 70mi away as it cost as much for him to show up as for the job. I'm located in kirkman Iowa do you know any mechanic in my area
I think another factor not considered in the TDF calculator is the age and wear of the cloth. Simonis cloth that has been on a table for 2-3 years is going to make the pockets play tougher than 6 month old Simonis on the same table.Excellent point. The TDF system applies only to tables with flat facings, like pool tables. It does not apply to tables with rounded facings like snooker or Chinese pool tables.
I think another factor not considered in the TDF calculator is the age and wear of the cloth. Simonis cloth that has been on a table for 2-3 years is going to make the pockets play tougher than 6 month old Simonis on the same table.
Here is my routine to get a table ready to ''read'' when I'm trying to get my answer
1st....Vacuum each section, and rail/cushion tops with bed vac tool.
2nd....do a walk around & use crevice tool to vac pockets, under cushion area and various fuzz not gotten.
3rd....soak your rag, clean, damp, no lint cotton rag rinsed out, but not too much fold cloth in half twice.
I wipe my 9' in 4 sections, each side. I turn my cloth new, for each section. I wipe in pocket wear area to rid of ball lines.
Once table is ''wet ragged'' I use another new section of the table/wipe cloth that is now holding ''allot'' less moisture, yet my cloth is clean.
I then do a final table walk around and wipe the top rails, the pocket interiors and again, use the same cloth, with a new fold area/clean. Takes about 20 min to set up and do one table.
Derby tables and ANY other table with new worsted cloth plays easy. For a while. Once the cloth breaks in they get tougher. Diamond ProCut pockets on broken-in Simonis(or any worsted) are not easy.In my experience, the only way to test table toughness is, will balls fall in when it brushes the rail before entering the pocket. This factor is what separates players. If you have fast rails, tables will play tougher. Other factors like pocket facings play an important role. I’m talking about a good table that’s been assembled well, Derby tables are too easy for the top players. They know this and sometimes get sloppy on their position. If a pocket plays to easy, people have a tendency to not focus on their fundamentals and their position gets sloppy. I have played for a long time, and today’s rails are much slower then they used to be. And this tends to make pockets play much easier. Final thought, pool is meant to be fun, that’s why league players love bar boxes. To me a player has two option’s, practice and play like a madman, so your ball pocketing scares the crap out of everyone in your hometown, and you can’t get a game.
Or you can enjoy yourself and get relatively proficient and always have action. Not scientific but true.
In my experience, the only way to test table toughness is, will balls fall in when it brushes the rail before entering the pocket.
Other factors like pocket facings play an important role.
I have a 7 foot Valley with 4 inch throat, 4 inch mouth, and 1.5 depth (shelf)
‘Difficulty’ is not easy to compare if expanded outside of a few variables. A learning curve may soon be soon erased. It’s more difficult to learn to drive a standard transmission car than an automatic. However, once the latter is learned, it is no more difficult to drive a standard transmission to the grocery store.
In contrast, increased difficulty may result in a complete change of tactics. I can learn to jump to catch a baseball. However, there is a point at which the ball is too high to catch. Then I need to learn to run and field it off the ground.
This all applies to table size. I don’t have any more difficult potting a 5’ foot straight in ball than a 4’ shot. However, at some distance I can’t pot the ball simply because I can’t reach and new tactic is necessary. ...qualitative change.
My table dimensions:
National Snooker table.
Mouth opening 8.6 cms
Throat opening 8.6 cms
Shelf depth Photos: not sure where to measure on a rounded pocket.
I had the pockets cut slight narrower than tournament size. I found that I got to know my previous table too well. The slight extra difficulty helps to compensate. However, having done this, I still find potting balls on a strange table more of a challenge.
An aside. American pool players often comment how difficult it is to pot a ball on a snooker table. However, there is no need to pot a ball at most trips to the table. It’s like being at the plate in baseball: no need to swing at every pitch...only swing at the pitch you can hit.