the A-joint and full splice construction question has been had... what about one piec

[nineballsafety8]

I have searched and found several threads about A-joint vs full splice playability questions...

but I was just curious about a one piece of wood, full length, assuming you could find a 30" piece that is straight, do you gain or lose anything by not having a "construction" method?

 

[GBCues]

Jay,
I wouldn't say it's that difficult to find long blanks that stay straight - I have a few (shown) and I'm sure others have many more. One of the things I run into in my neck of the woods is the perception that cues with lots of "bling" hit/play better than less adorned cues. Of course, there are players who know better, but they need only buy 1 or 2 cues and they are set.
My inlay machine is nearly done, but I'll still be a while learning BobCAD.
My 2 cents,
Gary

 

[nineballsafety8]

Jay,
I wouldn't say it's that difficult to find long blanks that stay straight - I have a few (shown) and I'm sure others have many more. One of the things I run into in my neck of the woods is the perception that cues with lots of "bling" hit/play better than less adorned cues. Of course, there are players who know better, but they need only buy 1 or 2 cues and they are set.
My inlay machine is nearly done, but I'll still be a while learning BobCAD.
My 2 cents,
Gary

That piece of EIRW looks very nice wish I was in the market, but funds are short... buying a new house (if the seller stops being a mule)

 

[cueman]

There are several woods that make nice playing one piece butts. If they stay straight you don't lose anything as they play great. But most woods just do not make that great of a one piece butt, as most are too heavy or to light or are prone to warping.

 

[JoeyInCali]

There are several woods that make nice playing one piece butts. If they stay straight you don't lose anything as they play great. But most woods just do not make that great of a one piece butt, as most are too heavy or to light or are prone to warping.

I agree.
I once made a inverse-ply bubinga. It hit great and was just the right weight .
Most are not, as you mentioned.

 

[Dave38]

I have done a few bocote one piece butts, to be used as breakers, due to the weight and solid hit of them. Bocote will usually stay straight and the grainwork is often awesome.
Most other woods for a 29" butt, I would core...so not sure if that would qualify as a 1 piece. I have done a curly maple one piece butt, but I cored it with purpleheart, as curly likes to move a bit at that length and also for the weight that purpleheart brings to the table, along with a more solid hit.
Dave

 

[nineballsafety8]

what would a one piece purple heart butt with a standard taper, non-core weigh?

assuming phenolic joint and collars and aluminum 3/10 pin to keep the weight down as much as possible

 

[63Kcode]

what would a one piece purple heart butt with a standard taper, non-core weigh?

assuming phenolic joint and collars and aluminum 3/10 pin to keep the weight down as much as possible

I made one with a 5/16 14 steel pin. It came in at 15oz. For the butt only. The 5/16 pin is .25oz heavier than a aluminum 3/8 pin.

Larry

 

[nineballsafety8]

so a sub 20oz one piece purpleheart cue is realistic... hmmmm LOL

a died purple heart cue may be the route I take for the next project

 

[cueman]

what would a one piece purple heart butt with a standard taper, non-core weigh?

assuming phenolic joint and collars and aluminum 3/10 pin to keep the weight down as much as possible

I have built several Purple Heart one piece butt cues through the years. The weight of Purple heart varies a lot. But you can get a 15 ounce butt out of most of it. I decide the joint pin once it is down to size whether it will be stainless or titanium. Purple heart is a good playing one piece butt. Some more of my favorites are Ziricote, Bubinga, Pau Ferro, Bocote, East Indies Rosewood, Shedua, Yellow Heart and Chechen as they all make good playing one piece butt cues and are fairly stable woods.
I bought a few hundred pieces of Ziricote that were partially tapered that came from the old Dufferin factory. That is why it is the only butt wood I offer in my tapered cue kits.

 

[Shooter08]

I have posted a similar question previously and not really gotten much of a response. Is there any advantage to a one piece cue over one with a A joint other than looks and potential to warp? THx

 

[Russell Cues]

I built a couple a yellowheart one piece butts, one was solid and not cored, the other I cored. Both of them are nice hitting cues. I've done a couple other one piece butts, but when they were left in the car while they owner was at work, they didn't fare to well.

 

[galipeau]

what would a one piece purple heart butt with a standard taper, non-core weigh?

assuming phenolic joint and collars and aluminum 3/10 pin to keep the weight down as much as possible

Ask Brent at BHQ. His main player was a one piece purpleheart I believe.

 

[CrossBone Cue]

If you are not to crazy about how a cue looks, try a laminated 1 piece maple butt like we use for wrapped handles and coring. 3/8x10 pin wood to wood.
Steve

 

[JoeyInCali]

so a sub 20oz one piece purpleheart cue is realistic... hmmmm LOL

a died purple heart cue may be the route I take for the next project

It hits too hard for my liking.
I like two contrasting woods in compression better .
Kinda like guitar backs.
Two contrasting woods resonate better imo.

 

[BHQ]

Ask Brent at BHQ. His main player was a one piece purpleheart I believe.

without weight added, butt was only 14

 

[bdcues]

so a sub 20oz one piece purpleheart cue is realistic... hmmmm LOL

a died purple heart cue may be the route I take for the next project

Purpleheart does not weigh much more than Hard Maple and a full length Maple cue is quite light. I make 6-pie Purpleheart butts often. Even with steel pin they seldom come in at much over 14oz (without shaft) and can be much lighter as Purpleheart varies considerably in weight.