dendweller
Well-known member
I love it. Everyone has that shaft.
The CARBON FIBER Shaft With the LEAST Cue Ball DEFLECTION
- Thread starter dr_dave
- Start date
Wow - first pivot lengths I've seen as long as my Ed Young custom tinytip maple (20"). Maybe there's something to these CF thingamajigs after all...
pj
chgo
LD shafts shorten the progression of learning how to shoot with english. if you're a young player that spend 8 hours playing pool every day, i don't think it matters at all, but if you have a more limited time to play each week i would without doubt recommend a LD shaft. you will still have to learn to compensate, just less. it's a shortcut, not something that's inherently better once learned.
dendweller
Well-known member
Thought the smo looked interesting, watched a review on youtube by pool nerds. Had a surprising ending.
Moe Szyslak
Well-known member
The "it's the sizzle, not the steak", school of marketing
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The capitalized words give the lazy readers out there a faster option.
Now if I could only make shorter videos that appeal to the “younger generation” with seemingly shorter attention spans.
You can. Just remove anything remotely nuanced or interesting, and go straight to the end.
I promise you, my hybrid deflects less than a 314 or a z.
I'm actually using a z shaft with one of my j/b tips on a bk2 as a break cue right now.. My best friend who was a predator authorized warranty repair technician laughed when I told him and I said yeah it'll probably shatter but by then I'll have built my break cue.
Great video! It’s obvious your testing method is valid, the obstinate and obtuse, won’t be convinced.
As far as what Poolmanis said, I agree. I used to aim inside the edge of the blocker hall, and use a lot of spin. Now I have to aim at the edge or even a little outside of it, and elevate the cue.
As far as what Poolmanis said, I agree. I used to aim inside the edge of the blocker hall, and use a lot of spin. Now I have to aim at the edge or even a little outside of it, and elevate the cue.
Aiming is different, but I thought he was implying the shot was somehow more difficult with an LD shaft (besides needing to aim a little differently).
dendweller
Well-known member
Played a match with a kid in his twenties. Had a pretty big break. He was using a 314 to break.
dendweller
Well-known member
When you went from the z2 to the revo, what was the adjustment like? Also, what diameter revo did you go to?
Thanks
No adjustment was required. The CB deflection was the same. That’s why I was so willing to change. I also liked the advantages of the carbon fiber shaft.
12.4 since that’s all that was available early on. Although, I don’t have a size preference since I use an open bridge.
Dr Dave…
Interested in your response to this question.
Thanks for all your work!! Enjoyed the video, a lot of the info resonated for me.
I’ve used various LD shafts for 30 yrs. Predator pre-cat, Predator 314, OB1 & OB1 Break, Cash Cues ferrule-less (best of the bunch to me, but only available for a short time). Z2 & OB Classic - tried, but no.
After trying, but passing on kielwood shafts from Bill Lister… I had a good discussion with him & he made me a couple shaft - high grade solid maple, a new taper he was using, 3/8” Juma ferrules, 12.8mm. Immediately I was right at home, just like the Cash ferrule-less, but solid maple.
Recently decided to give a CF play shaft a try. Decided on Cuetec Cynergy SST 12.5mm. One w/ standard Sniper tip (don’t care for the tip) & another w/ Caiden Warrior Soft (much better). They have a good feel. Played pretty well but I noticed occasional unexpected swerve results. Could I adjust over time? Sure I could, just don’t care to.
When Pete Tascarella finished my new cue in Feb, I had him match the taper on a shaft I really liked at 12.6mm. Solid maple, 3/8 Juma ferrule. Right at home. What comes off the shaft is what I expect (subject to operator error of course).
Now he’s making me more new shafts for my other Tasc w/ same taper/ferrule @ 12.5mm.
The tip mm reduction was the main result of the CF experiment. What works, works!
Yes what works, works, the majority of cueball deflection/squirt is going to be determined by the end mass of the shaft, the last 5-7". Let me see if I can give an illustration of why. Think of the end mass of the shaft as the amount of something that pushes the cb. If you have more of that something relative to the amount of something that the cb is made up of, it will push it farther. So the less of that something there is, the less of that something there is to push it farther. When you're hitting the ball off center, off of it's center of mass, the more there is of that end mass of the shaft to push from off center the more off center it's going to push. The less mass there is to push it off center, the less off center it's going to push.
Nice video. I'm surprised the Revo was knocked off the top, by a brand I've never heard of, no less.
Couple comments on Z's splitting...
I've had the same issue. I had Z-1's, Z-2's, 314-1's (1" ferrule, pre-cats, post cats), 314-2's. (never had the -3's). Maybe 15 of them in total since 1999 when I got my first one. I might have had 5 or 6 split, from normal play, not abuse. Both Z's and 314's split on me.
One really good thing about the Revo's is they squirt the same, but they are way stronger. They also never get dings.
Predator really revolutionized the whole cue market twice. First with the 314, then with the Revo.
I've had the same issue. I had Z-1's, Z-2's, 314-1's (1" ferrule, pre-cats, post cats), 314-2's. (never had the -3's). Maybe 15 of them in total since 1999 when I got my first one. I might have had 5 or 6 split, from normal play, not abuse. Both Z's and 314's split on me.
One really good thing about the Revo's is they squirt the same, but they are way stronger. They also never get dings.
Predator really revolutionized the whole cue market twice. First with the 314, then with the Revo.