The "L" drill
- Thread starter JohnnyP
- Start date
Here is the first CueTable Video Contest we put together with Tiger Products last June, including a layout and a video of a special version of L-Drill :
http://pl.cuetable.com/showthread.php?t=26
I would very much like to start something like this again if people are up for it...
http://pl.cuetable.com/showthread.php?t=26
I would very much like to start something like this again if people are up for it...
Well, I had been playing a year at least when I saw it for the first time, but I did it the first session that I tried it. Once you get past the corner, it gets easier, at least for me. Here is an article about it http://www.onthebreaknews.com/Jewett3.htm#December04 that might help. Try it with only 9 balls as shown. Move up to more when you can do 9 at least 1/3 of the time.JohnnyP said:
I have used 30 different practice drills, including the "L" or as I remember it being also called "Around The Corner", I use this drill with 2 balls sets on the 1 table, 15 ball "L" set up at each opposing corners, and I would then practice running out the first set, but then playing position from the last ball of the 1st set, to the 1st ball on the 2nd set at the other end, playing in a continuous fashion 
I have came up with a few drills of my own, a few with 2 full racks of balls on the table at once, and others that use 1 full set, but are quite difficult
All practice drill are worth playing, because they help you become sharper and keep you playing sharp
Willie
I have came up with a few drills of my own, a few with 2 full racks of balls on the table at once, and others that use 1 full set, but are quite difficult
All practice drill are worth playing, because they help you become sharper and keep you playing sharp
Willie
lol, just kidding 
I usually mess up somewhere in the middle of the first string, failing to get high enough for the next ball. I often end up close to the rail near the side pocket, and can sometimes draw my way out of it. I'm also trying to avoid using two rails.
One of the rare times I went around the corner, I ended up about a ball below the string and out from the rail far enough to bridge, shooting at number ten. A very severe backward cut. I shot it with inside and made it, the ball just getting to the pocket, but the cueball scratched in the side. arg.
I'm impressed that you guys can do it with regularity. Back to the old drawing board.
Bob: Thanks for the diagrams. Referring to your half ball set up, using the four ball rack, I'm surprised that I can pocket a ball, considering the difference between the line of the shot, and the amount of throw. I never think of throw unless I'm trying to get some.
One of the rare times I went around the corner, I ended up about a ball below the string and out from the rail far enough to bridge, shooting at number ten. A very severe backward cut. I shot it with inside and made it, the ball just getting to the pocket, but the cueball scratched in the side. arg.
I'm impressed that you guys can do it with regularity. Back to the old drawing board.
Bob: Thanks for the diagrams. Referring to your half ball set up, using the four ball rack, I'm surprised that I can pocket a ball, considering the difference between the line of the shot, and the amount of throw. I never think of throw unless I'm trying to get some.
And the trick is that you better not be thinking about it when you are playing or you are pretty much guaranteed to shoot the ball into the rail. See the ball, see the pocket, hit the ball into the pocket -- keep it that simple.JohnnyP said:
Practice and teaching are a different matter, and there I think it does help if all parties understand what's happening. Most don't seem to. There are still some instructors who don't think throw exists.
I can now do it once in about 5 tries. I was surprised to find this out. The last time I tried this drill was maybe 3 or 4 years ago, and I hadn't played very long. All I'll say is that I wasn't very good at it. I tried it again for the first time about 2 months ago and found it wasn't _too_ difficult any more.
Very pleasant surprise!
Very pleasant surprise!
I finally did it Thursday evening. I was just about ready to give up for the night after spending another three hours on it.
I made eleven and twelve a couple times, made it to the corner ball a lot, so I knew I was getting close.
Proud moment for me when Wayne Norcross came over to tell me he was watching. He said I played those last few perfectly, then said, "Ok, you made fifteen in a row, now try for thirty."
There is so much going on with some of these shots that the casual spectator won't see, but I don't have to tell you guys that. Main thing is to stay off the rail. I can sometimes get back in line from there, but you have to allow for a lot of swerve, even when rolling the ball.
I made eleven and twelve a couple times, made it to the corner ball a lot, so I knew I was getting close.
Proud moment for me when Wayne Norcross came over to tell me he was watching. He said I played those last few perfectly, then said, "Ok, you made fifteen in a row, now try for thirty."
There is so much going on with some of these shots that the casual spectator won't see, but I don't have to tell you guys that. Main thing is to stay off the rail. I can sometimes get back in line from there, but you have to allow for a lot of swerve, even when rolling the ball.
Nice one Johnny 
, 30 is what I used to practice quite regularly, and it's definitely good practice for Straight Pool, because you're learning to fine tune your CB control, but also you're looking to keep running balls
Well done again Johnny, keep up the good work
Willie
, 30 is what I used to practice quite regularly, and it's definitely good practice for Straight Pool, because you're learning to fine tune your CB control, but also you're looking to keep running balls Well done again Johnny, keep up the good work
Willie
Thanks Mr. Wizard. I'm also learing to use both sides of the pocket when the ball's not a hanger.
A couple times I came up with too steep an angle on the second or third ball, so instead of ultra slow rolling it, I stroked it hard enough to go up and down the table, falling good on the next ball.
A couple times I came up with too steep an angle on the second or third ball, so instead of ultra slow rolling it, I stroked it hard enough to go up and down the table, falling good on the next ball.
Anytime buddy
I know what you mean about getting too long a roll on the CB to get the shape you're looking for on the next OB, in those situations, it's sometimes better to roll a 2 lengths of the table for shape and other times it's better to slam the brakes on, it pretty much depends on what you feel most comfortable with, where the CB is located and what angle you got to shoot at
Again, well done on completeing the drill and you're now well on your way to the 30 balls, but give yourself a chance to master the 15 ball drill first
Willie
I know what you mean about getting too long a roll on the CB to get the shape you're looking for on the next OB, in those situations, it's sometimes better to roll a 2 lengths of the table for shape and other times it's better to slam the brakes on, it pretty much depends on what you feel most comfortable with, where the CB is located and what angle you got to shoot at
Again, well done on completeing the drill and you're now well on your way to the 30 balls, but give yourself a chance to master the 15 ball drill first
Willie
This drill has been kicking my ass lately. It seems like the first 3 balls are automatic, then suddenly I have to start thinking. I can't reach a point where ball 4 is automatic too. I run 7-8 very often and almost never get enough angle on the 9th. If I do it's far away or on the rail or both.
Do you try to go 1 rail and over every single shot ideally? Also, I feel like there's a pattern when I shoot that goes... 1st ball - just side, 2nd ball, just side with a tiny hair below center, 3rd ball a touch less side and a little more below center, 4th ball even less side and maybe more below center... etc etc...
So as I progress, I need less and less side and more and more draw to ensure it isn't rolling forward much when it arrives. Is this natural? And do people try to play it this way? Does anyone try to do this with little or no side?
Do you try to go 1 rail and over every single shot ideally? Also, I feel like there's a pattern when I shoot that goes... 1st ball - just side, 2nd ball, just side with a tiny hair below center, 3rd ball a touch less side and a little more below center, 4th ball even less side and maybe more below center... etc etc...
So as I progress, I need less and less side and more and more draw to ensure it isn't rolling forward much when it arrives. Is this natural? And do people try to play it this way? Does anyone try to do this with little or no side?
When I set up the balls, I put the first and last ones on the rail, to make it a little harder. With the first ball on the rail, I set the cueball at a shallow angle and use a little draw.
After about three hours of practice, I noticed a narrow triangle of chalk marks on the cloth in the area where I set up for the first shot.
At first I was trying to stun balls 2 - 5, but found that I was often going to the side rail. Duh. I'm having more success slow rolling them with some side, or sometimes a drag draw. I've found that the sharper the angle, the less outside you should use, or you will end up on the side rail, unless you want to use more side and go two rails.
Balls 6 - 8 may require just natural roll or with a hint of inside, but that's if you get perfect on them. Many times I'm straight in on them, or what's worse, just slightly above straight in. You have to stroke it with low outside to come back to the rail and spin up table a bit, but it's real easy to overdo it.
One of my favorite shots on the lower number balls is when I don't quite have enough angle to roll it, but it's too much angle to draw back and up, so I slam it with high outside. The cueball swoops forward and down to the bottom rail, then comes back off the rail on the same path it took going in, spinning into position like a top, if you're lucky.
After about three hours of practice, I noticed a narrow triangle of chalk marks on the cloth in the area where I set up for the first shot.
At first I was trying to stun balls 2 - 5, but found that I was often going to the side rail. Duh. I'm having more success slow rolling them with some side, or sometimes a drag draw. I've found that the sharper the angle, the less outside you should use, or you will end up on the side rail, unless you want to use more side and go two rails.
Balls 6 - 8 may require just natural roll or with a hint of inside, but that's if you get perfect on them. Many times I'm straight in on them, or what's worse, just slightly above straight in. You have to stroke it with low outside to come back to the rail and spin up table a bit, but it's real easy to overdo it.
One of my favorite shots on the lower number balls is when I don't quite have enough angle to roll it, but it's too much angle to draw back and up, so I slam it with high outside. The cueball swoops forward and down to the bottom rail, then comes back off the rail on the same path it took going in, spinning into position like a top, if you're lucky.
If you find yourself getting stuck on the side rail alot, when playing draw shots for shape on the next ball, then try playing a steeper angle when you get to the 3rd ball, by leaving the CB a tough shorter, than perfect shape, that way, you you make the 3rd ball, the CB should finish up a little high for the 4th ball, to finish up around 3.25 diamonds up the side rail and about 1.5 diamonds out is about perfect, this way you have a nice 1/2 ball angle and you can use follow and "running" English on the Cb, to follow 2 rails, and back out again to fall a little high again on the next ball, this way, you'll still be able to hve the angle you need to get shape on the next ball, and also you'll find that you have that little bit more error space for your next shot
Willie
Willie