They are ready.

tsp&b

tsp&b

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Silver Member
These are available as a CNC and Manual complete package, as a CNC only, or as an add on for existing compatible machines. There are too many ways to cover all the details and pricing information here so, if you have questions or want to get additional information, please just send me a PM here or email to : midamericapool@yahoo.com.
CNC 1.jpg
 
Strange, I have one that kinda looks like that. I didn't get a manual though.

I have had zero problems with the CNC/
 
tsp&b said:
These are available as a CNC and Manual complete package, as a CNC only, or as an add on for existing compatible machines. There are too many ways to cover all the details and pricing information here so, if you have questions or want to get additional information, please just send me a PM here or email to : midamericapool@yahoo.com.
View attachment 248536
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I am going to suggest you TRY and list pricing....options ect.

There will interest in these and unless you like repeating yourself 1000 times and have time to do so, it might be a good idea...
 
pescadoman said:
I am going to suggest you TRY and list pricing....options ect.

There will interest in these and unless you like repeating yourself 1000 times and have time to do so, it might be a good idea...
Click to expand...

I agree, Like a conversion kit would be a good option. The carriage set up with the steppers, and the controller to run them with.

Nice looking setup.
 
Cue Crazy,

The add-on unit for a compatible lathe (conversion kit... "The carriage set up with the steppers, and the controller to run them with.") will start at $1350.00.

Randy,

I don't mind answering individual requests for information. It gives us a chance to make sure that folks get exactly what they want. There are any number of ways to put this together with various components to fill the individual wants and needs. But, the complete Professional Cue Repair Lathe + CNC tapering will start at $2700.00.

If you have any questions or if I can help you with anything please just let me know.

Thanks!
Todd
 
Todds machine is FANTASTIC. I will offer G Coding for two butts and two shafts at your increments till the first of the year if it will help.
 
CnC For Dummies?

There has to be one for me, they have one for everything else.

Todd has helped me fix up the lathe I just bought to where I want it.
And for a good price as well.

I think mine is a good candidate for a conversion and the price is right.
Reading what you guys know about CnC kind of scares me a bit but it also gave me the itch to at least consider it in the future.

I know what Steppers look like now. Thats a start.

Good stuff Todd, and good luck with the sales to which I am sure you will have no problem.

That is a nice gesture from Tom too for us newbies. Tom has answered many of my questions re G Code and it
has helped me understand just a bit more. 2 butts and 2 shafts is a good start.
 
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Blue Hog ridr said:
CnC For Dummies?

There has to be one for me, they have one for everything else.

Todd has helped me fix up the lathe I just bought to where I want it.
And for a good price as well.

I think mine is a good candidate for a conversion and the price is right.
Reading what you guys know about CnC kind of scares me a bit but it also gave me the itch to at least consider it in the future.

I know what Steppers look like now. Thats a start.

Good stuff Todd, and good luck with the sales to which I am sure you will have no problem.

That is a nice gesture from Tom too for us newbies. Tom has answered many of my questions re G Code and it
has helped me understand just a bit more. 2 butts and 2 shafts is a good start.
Click to expand...

Okay, lets break down 2 Axis G Coding for a shaft nice and easy.

Picture you have an architectural pad with all the squares, the dead middle being home. Your Y code is simple as the will bring the carrage to the value you put in which would be 29- 30" The X moves your tool post in or out. You measure the taper you want at every 1". Divide that by 2 as you are cutting round. This means for each inch you give it a value divided by 2 until you hit your 29" (or 30").

Many have seen me running big to small. It is my understanding most like to go small to big so you start home 29 - 30 inches from home on the board and work inward, Each inch increment you give will leave an X. After you hit your 29 - 30 inches you will have that many X's, one per inch. You than connect with a line to each X. Depending on program you just hit G code and it does it for you. Save that file with a name and when ready open that file in the Mach 3 and your good to go.

You can buy cheap round wood at Home Depot to practice and check yourself before cutting precious wood.

This gives you UNLIMITED shaft tapers.

My offer is/was to take FEAR off the table. If you don't want to learn simple 2 Axis G Codes it would take longer for the computer to boot up than it would for me to G Code your increments and send them back to you.
 
TomHay said:
Okay, lets break down 2 Axis G Coding for a shaft nice and easy.

Picture you have an architectural pad with all the squares, the dead middle being home. Your Y code is simple as the will bring the carrage to the value you put in which would be 29- 30" The X moves your tool post in or out. You measure the taper you want at every 1". Divide that by 2 as you are cutting round. This means for each inch you give it a value divided by 2 until you hit your 29" (or 30").

Many have seen me running big to small. It is my understanding most like to go small to big so you start home 29 - 30 inches from home on the board and work inward, Each inch increment you give will leave an X. After you hit your 29 - 30 inches you will have that many X's, one per inch. You than connect with a line to each X. Depending on program you just hit G code and it does it for you. Save that file with a name and when ready open that file in the Mach 3 and your good to go.

You can buy cheap round wood at Home Depot to practice and check yourself before cutting precious wood.

This gives you UNLIMITED shaft tapers.

My offer is/was to take FEAR off the table. If you don't want to learn simple 2 Axis G Codes it would take longer for the computer to boot up than it would for me to G Code your increments and send them back to you.
Click to expand...


You are programming inch by inch. Does that mean that you are using a G01 between inch end points or are you using a G02 or a G03 for circular interpolation?

What I mean is the cut smooth or is it stepped?

Kim
 
Kim, it is cut smooth as the line between the X's is tapered, there is not a sudden drop down.
 
FWIW, Jim (MC2) once said that he likes to set up his Mach3 so that he shows the diameter on the DRO, not the radius. I changed my step settings to do likewise and find it a more natural way to go.

Thanks Jim!!

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
whammo57 said:
You are programming inch by inch. Does that mean that you are using a G01 between inch end points or are you using a G02 or a G03 for circular interpolation?

What I mean is the cut smooth or is it stepped?

Kim
Click to expand...

Kim,

The software is configured to use "Constant Velocity" so it automatically extrapolates a smooth tool path incorporating up to 20 future commands.
 
questions

Todd,
too many questions to answer individually don't you think????
ie. does software come with it/???computers??
etc.
Bill
 
GBCues said:
FWIW, Jim (MC2) once said that he likes to set up his Mach3 so that he shows the diameter on the DRO, not the radius. I changed my step settings to do likewise and find it a more natural way to go.

Thanks Jim!!

My 2 cents,

Gary
Click to expand...

Thanks Gary, I am glad that was helpful. Here is another bit of useful information. You may already know this however, if you touch off your cutter and take a pass on a piece of wood, put an M01 in your program at the end of your cut. Place it before your cutter retracts from the part. This means that your depth of cut DRO, I use Y as I use the mill software, will show the diameter of the part just cut. Measure the part at the end. If that measurement does not match the DRO on Mach 3 then click on the DRO and type in the measured diameter and make sure you hit enter. This will automatically set your DRO and programming to cut the correct size for that point forward. You can set position by touching off your tool however it is more accurate to adjust the DRO to match a real cut.

Jim.
 
JerseyBill said:
Todd,
too many questions to answer individually don't you think????
ie. does software come with it/???computers??
etc.
Bill
Click to expand...

Bill,

No, I think there are too many questions not to give each and every individual the specific attention that they need and deserve. The CNC unit includes the CNC driver box, but a computer/controller is not included. I am using a dedicated desk top computer with Windows XP and a clean hard drive. Cost was less than $150.00. They available locally or on line. The Mach 3 software is available as an unlimited time trial version that serves well for the simple operations of tapering. I do include some g-code files for shaft and some for butt tapering.

Thanks,
Todd
 
Todd- I will send you an email with list of other items I need also. I will make arrangements to stop by next week.
Thanks!
 
Dammit. If I would have known this was gonna be available, I'd have never started building my machine. It looks damn good. I love how its been tested and shown before it was offered for sale. Great job Todd.

Joe
 
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