Tip diameter???

[The Captain]

Good morning all.... I have an opinion based question. I'm currently using a 12.70mm low deflection laminated shaft (my first non-standard shaft... which I have gotten used to). In the process of a custom builder making me a new cue. I will be switching to the makers standard shafts. I have one being built with a 1" iv0ry ferrule, and 1 with 1/2" iv0ry ferrule. My question is this.... any recommendations on tip diameter? I thought just get them both with 13mm, and then could have reduced if needed? Or should I start out with a little smaller due to other peoples experience? Maybe 13mm on the 1", and 12.25-12.5 on the 1/2"?

 

[qbilder]

If you can adjust easily enough, I'd say begin with 13mm & work your way down if needed. Otherwise, stick with the 12.7 that you're used to. IMO, shaft diameter is crucial because of how the shaft fits your bridge. I believe many things are affected by having a shaft too large or too small, such as stroke accuracy and deflection. Of course anything can be argued, but I'm not going to engage an argument. These are my beliefs based on years of building & handling thousands of shafts, and nobody will convince me otherwise. If the shaft is too thick, it's grabby in your bridge, as well as making it difficult to hit where you think you're hitting. If too thin, it's loose and sloppy in your bridge, as well as overshooting your intended contact point on the CB. A thick shaft that is tight in your bridge can assume the mass of your hand, significantly increasing CB deflection. A thinner shaft with wiggle room will deflect away from the ball rather than forcing the ball to deflect. There are variables to consider such as stroke length and the length of shaft protruding from your bridge at point of contact with the CB. This is all stuff that doesn't get factored into or considered with LD shafts. LD shafts reduce tip end mass, but do nothing to address other variables. Again, this is my opinion, could easily be argued and/or seen differently, but my experience tells me this is the way it is. Take it for what it's worth.

 

[Tramp Steamer]

Several ways to go. My preference would be a 13 mm shaft from the cue maker that matches his cue, and another shaft that are the dimensions of the one you are accustomed to playing with. :smile:

 

[maestro de pool]

open bridge

if you can shoot with an open bridge lets say 90 % of the shots take an 12mm / 1/2 inch ferulle if not (play most of the shots closed bridge) stay to 12.70mm

 

[Blue Hog ridr]

These days, a 13mm feels like a telephone pole in my hand.

I play with and have just about everything from a 11.75 to 12.75. My preference depending on which cue that I am using is usually around 12 to 12.50. I know, 1mm between a 13 and a 12 doesn't seem and really isn't that much but it is very noticeable.

But, probably if you don't know, it is easier to take a bit of wood off as it is pretty difficult to add some later.

Work you way down until you find something that feels extra good for you.

Preds or OB's are 12.75 mm and that is a good one to start out with. Pretty sure OB's are the same. Been a while since I used one. .25 mm difference but just enuff to give you a feel of a bit smaller tip diameter.

 

[HawaiianEye]

If you can adjust easily enough, I'd say begin with 13mm & work your way down if needed. Otherwise, stick with the 12.7 that you're used to. IMO, shaft diameter is crucial because of how the shaft fits your bridge. I believe many things are affected by having a shaft too large or too small, such as stroke accuracy and deflection. Of course anything can be argued, but I'm not going to engage an argument. These are my beliefs based on years of building & handling thousands of shafts, and nobody will convince me otherwise. If the shaft is too thick, it's grabby in your bridge, as well as making it difficult to hit where you think you're hitting. If too thin, it's loose and sloppy in your bridge, as well as overshooting your intended contact point on the CB. A thick shaft that is tight in your bridge can assume the mass of your hand, significantly increasing CB deflection. A thinner shaft with wiggle room will deflect away from the ball rather than forcing the ball to deflect. There are variables to consider such as stroke length and the length of shaft protruding from your bridge at point of contact with the CB. This is all stuff that doesn't get factored into or considered with LD shafts. LD shafts reduce tip end mass, but do nothing to address other variables. Again, this is my opinion, could easily be argued and/or seen differently, but my experience tells me this is the way it is. Take it for what it's worth.

I agree 100%. That is always one of my biggest concerns when changing shafts sizes. I know what feels and works best for me and stick with it. I've always shot with shafts that are larger in diameter than most people and I like the way they hit. I'm trying to adjust to a smaller size since all my newer cues have 12.5mm, or so, shafts. I have to "concentrate" more on my bridge because I still haven't fully adjusted yet.

 

[ceebee]

I agree 100%. That is always one of my biggest concerns when changing shafts sizes. I know what feels and works best for me and stick with it. I've always shot with shafts that are larger in diameter than most people and I like the way they hit. I'm trying to adjust to a smaller size since all my newer cues have 12.5mm, or so, shafts. I have to "concentrate" more on my bridge because I still haven't fully adjusted yet.

I've played with 13mm for a long time now, even played with a friend's 13.7 mm & thought it was great.

My friend from Australia came over & the first thing he bought was a Predator Cue. It came with a 314 12.06mm on it. We took turns playing with it for 3 weeks & I proudly state that I am a CONVERT......

I am going to get a extra 12.1-12.2 shaft for all my Cues.

 

[Bavafongoul]

Go with 12.95 mm ( this way you know your shafts will not be more than 13mm and would sure be darn close) and 12.75mm using a pro taper length of 14" and 1" ivory ferrules.......tips of your own selection.

Matt B.

 

[TATE]

Several ways to go. My preference would be a 13 mm shaft from the cue maker that matches his cue, and another shaft that are the dimensions of the one you are accustomed to playing with. :smile:

I'm going with Tramp on this on. It will be easier to make the adjustment if you keep a shaft at the same diameter as you're accustomed to. Seems 12.75 has become the new normal fat shaft anyway.

 

[GB Basher]

If you are a player, only have ivory ferrules if you don't intend to travel overseas.
Why would you not want both shafts to be the same spec so they hit fairly similar?

 

[The Captain]

I played with a McDermott standard shaft for 25 years, then switched to a Schon standard for about a year, and now use a 314*2 shaft on my Schon. My new weapon is being make by Bob Dzuricky. His shaft taper grows 1/4 mm in the first 10" then grows smoothly from there. his suggestion on this matter is to have both ferrules 3/4" and 12.75

 

[GB Basher]

I played with a McDermott standard shaft for 25 years, then switched to a Schon standard for about a year, and now use a 314*2 shaft on my Schon. My new weapon is being make by Bob Dzuricky. His shaft taper grows 1/4 mm in the first 10" then grows smoothly from there. his suggestion on this matter is to have both ferrules 3/4" and 12.75

IMO I think this is good advice. It does not matter if the shafts are LD/HD, they will all have some squirt. If you are a reasonable standard regular player, some of the squirt will be dealt with on a sub conscious level, so if you keep 1 shaft as a spare or alternate between the 2, having them play as similar as possible is a good thing and will not 'mess with your head'