Tips on shooting cue ball frozen on rail

Glad you added that "edit" Rick, as once again, you don't know what you're talking about. Any kind of downward pressure on the front end of the cuestick is the worst possible advice any one can give. That completely negates the opportunity to "let the cue do the work".

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I guess you haven't seen Pat Flemming's Creative Edge video?
 
These rail shots are fascinating what they do with off center hits. The CB swerves so much. Way more than with a low spin shot (off the rail) imo. I know of course everyone advocates to hit these rail shots no spin, but practice them also with spin, and you will see how much the CB curves, and can then play that shot reliably in a game.
 
Glad you added that "edit" Rick, as once again, you don't know what you're talking about. Any kind of downward pressure on the front end of the cuestick is the worst possible advice any one can give. That completely negates the opportunity to "let the cue do the work".

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Per Mr. Howerton's advice...

I'll just say that it's not always & nearly never is about just 'letting the cue do the work'.

YOU don't know what YOU don't know. You seem to only know how to try to cut cookies.

There is more than one way to stroke a cue extremely effectively. Everyone is NOT a beginner.

CJ Wiley suggests being able to control the cue & the tip on the end of it by being able to lift the tip above one's head & then write one's name in script.

The cue can't do that kind of work by itself.

There is more than one way to hit a very successful golf shot & the same goes for pool shots.

BUT... I guess you only know the way you were taught to teach.

So, YOU DON'T KNOW what YOU DON'T KNOW.

Enjoy your evening.

PS I recently received a PM from one of your recent students. Would you like to know what he said about the lesson with you?
 
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These rail shots are fascinating what they do with off center hits. The CB swerves so much. Way more than with a low spin shot (off the rail) imo. I know of course everyone advocates to hit these rail shots no spin, but practice them also with spin, and you will see how much the CB curves, and can then play that shot reliably in a game.

I do that when I have to do so. But since shooting them so rarely they are more of an only when absolutely needed nature as the humidity here is high but changes so much.
 
These rail shots are fascinating what they do with off center hits. The CB swerves so much. Way more than with a low spin shot (off the rail) imo. I know of course everyone advocates to hit these rail shots no spin, but practice them also with spin, and you will see how much the CB curves, and can then play that shot reliably in a game.
I try to make my bridge as long as possible on these shots for this reason, especially when playing with english deliberately.

Though it sacrifices some accuracy on the hit onto the CB, if I do unintentionally hit a little off center or with more offset than intended, the squirt reduces the margin of that error significantly.

The effective pivot point on these shots is usually around the 20 inch mark, on a medium deflection cue, due to the increased swerve component. The closer one can get to this length, and maintain the ability to hit the CB cleanly, the less is the potential for error due to swerving. Speed plays a big role too, so I tend to punch these shots if possible.

If a slow roll dribble in shot offers good position, might as well use it, but most of the time, being able to play these shots with more power and some english, can rescue a clearance that is heading off course.

Colin
 
Per Mr. Howerton's advice...

I'll just say that it's not always & nearly never is about just 'letting the cue do the work'.

YOU don't know what YOU don't know. You seem to only know how to try to cut cookies.

There is more than one way to stroke a cue extremely effectively. Everyone is NOT a beginner.

CJ Wiley suggests being able to control the cue & the tip on the end of it by being able to lift the tip above one's head & then write one's name in script.

The cue can't do that kind of work by itself.

There is more than one way to hit a very successful golf shot & the same goes for pool shots.

BUT... I guess you only know the way you were taught to teach.

So, YOU DON'T KNOW what YOU DON'T KNOW.

Enjoy your evening.

PS I recently received a PM from one of your recent students. Would you like to know what he said about the lesson with you?

If you are going to have a big enough ego to tell one of the best instructors that he doesn't know what he is talking about, you should have something to back it up besides some stupid threat.

Who cares what ONE student says about any instructor? Learning is about the student more than it is about the teacher. And, after thousands of students, I'm sure there is more than just one student that didn't care for his lessons for various reasons. The primary one being most likely that they though just taking a lesson would automatically make them a better player without actually doing any work themselves.
 
If you are going to have a big enough ego to tell one of the best instructors that he doesn't know what he is talking about, you should have something to back it up besides some stupid threat.

Who cares what ONE student says about any instructor? Learning is about the student more than it is about the teacher. And, after thousands of students, I'm sure there is more than just one student that didn't care for his lessons for various reasons. The primary one being most likely that they though just taking a lesson would automatically make them a better player without actually doing any work themselves.

Thanks for being a bit civil but you missed the point of the post & there was no 'threat' in it.

Again you put words into the mouths of others that they did not say.

I never said that Mr. Lee does not know about that of which he talks.

I said he does not know what he does not know.

There is more than one way to very successfully utilize a pool cue. That was the point of the post.

Mr. Lee seems to only subscribe to one method. That's his choice, but he should not need to put down all other methods.

That, to me, is not a sign of a good teacher. If he only understands & uses one level of firmness connected to the cue that's his choice for his reasons. I know rather many very good players that vary their connection to the cue just as some golfers do for different shots.

It's to each his own unless one want's to be a clone.

You have a good evening & you'll be in my prayers & I'll once again include Mr. Lee too.
 
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Thanks for being a bit civil but you missed the point of the post & there was no 'threat' in it.

Again you put words into the mouths of others that they did not say.

I never said that Mr. Lee does not know about that of which he talks.

I said he does not know what he does not know.

There is more than one way to very successfully utilize a pool cue. That was the point of the post.

Mr. Lee seems to only subscribe to one method. That's his choice, but he should not need to put down all other methods.

That, to me, is not a sign of a good teacher. If he only understands & uses one level of firmness connected to the cue that's his choice for his reasons. I know rather many very good players that vary their connection to the cue just as some golfers do for different shots.

It's to each his own unless one want's to be a clone.

You have a good evening & you'll be in my prayers & I'll once again include Mr. Lee too.

Rick, you don't have a clue what Scott teaches, or how many methods he teaches. So, again, you are belitting him with nothing but stuff you made up.
 
Aim for the center axis of the object ball using no English. Now here's the clincher - aim to hit the cloth on the rail a fraction of an inch behind the cue ball! Maybe an eighth to a quarter inch up on the rail. If you do this and follow through you will never miscue! :thumbup:


You nailed it
 
One of the most effective ideas so you can get away with hitting the cueball with pace is to put downward pressure with the shaft into your bridge hand. Shoot a level as possible. It keeps the shaft from bouncing up off the edge of the cueball.

You can use the same stroke shooting a very close cut with the cueball heading into a rail from a very short distance to avoid the double hit with the tip. On these shoot with a slight upward angle and follow through to clear the cue so the cueball doesn't hit it off the rail. Other day I shot this and sent the cueball downtable off the rail and back up 3/4 table. I closed a set with the shot and I'm sure my opponent had no idea how it was done. It's the only way you can pull of this shot.
 
Rick, you don't have a clue what Scott teaches, or how many methods he teaches. So, again, you are belitting him with nothing but stuff you made up.

He said what he said about pressure on the cue being the worst.

IMO, he said what he said to belittle me or to do so while also doing something else.

'You guys all want to play on the one way street known a 'Arrogant Hypocrisy'.

Y'all want to dish it out & don't want nor expect it in return & probably think that no one but the one's that respond see Y'all that way.

How do you always say it, 'good luck with that'.

You reap what you sow.

BUT... the point of MY post was to point out that there is more than one way to very effectively utilize a pool cue & NOT just the way Mr. Lee teaches how to do it.
 
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One of the most effective ideas so you can get away with hitting the cueball with pace is to put downward pressure with the shaft into your bridge hand. Shoot a level as possible. It keeps the shaft from bouncing up off the edge of the cueball.

You can use the same stroke shooting a very close cut with the cueball heading into a rail from a very short distance to avoid the double hit with the tip. On these shoot with a slight upward angle and follow through to clear the cue so the cueball doesn't hit it off the rail. Other day I shot this and sent the cueball downtable off the rail and back up 3/4 table. I closed a set with the shot and I'm sure my opponent had no idea how it was done. It's the only way you can pull of this shot.

Some either don't understand or put down such for their own ulterior motives.
 
Pidge...I said elevate to the very slight angle of the bevel on the rail. That is not "jacking up" the cue, and is only nominally more elevated than resting the cue on the rail in normal shots. The method I described allows for a more accurate strike on the CB, and less chance of a miscue, imo.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

I don't like jacking up on these. I miss far more this way and I feel it adds an extra bit of difficulty that isn't needed.
 
Sure...why don't you post it here, and I'll post the evaluation that the student made about the lesson. I teach many ways to approach a problem, and several ways to accomplish a goal. Usually the simplest answer is the most likely choice for the student...but in the end it is their choice.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

PS I recently received a PM from one of your recent students. Would you like to know what he said about the lesson with you?
 
Pidge...I said elevate to the very slight angle of the bevel on the rail. That is not "jacking up" the cue, and is only nominally more elevated than resting the cue on the rail in normal shots. The method I described allows for a more accurate strike on the CB, and less chance of a miscue, imo.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
In fact, on most tables it's impossible to shoot over the rail without at least some downward angle. Here's an illustration of that limitation.

pj
chgo

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And threads like this one are the very reason no one should come on AZB to learn anything about HOW to shoot pool.

FYI Shane has said that shooting shots with CB froze to rail were the hardest for him until he practiced just that for hours and hours, for days. Johnnyt
 
Froze

Thanks for all the replies... keep 'em coming!

Jay's tip is something I've done depending on if you're shooting straight out from the rail..
I think Buddy shoots those like that.

I do choke up a little on the butt to shorten the stroke a little... you just can't take a big stroke on this shot, IMO.

At least on Gold Crowns, there's that slight bevel that allows you to slightly elevate the cue... def slightly. There are times where you're tempted to jack up to stop the rock or
force it for position... then IMO it takes a true center ball hit to keep the masse and squirt
at a minimum.

The open bridge to me is the culprit on missing these.. the slight downward pressure def helps... again, I've seen Efren use a closed bridge with just his fingertips touching the back of the rail, on the moulding. I've tried that, can't quite get there!
And since you're only hitting the top of the CB, your knuckle keeps you from seeing your aiming point.

My buddy showed me a One Pocket spot shot drill... one OB on the spot, CB froze on
the bottom rail at the first diamond, either side... playing the ghost, 7/7... for the cheese. You could try a safe, or go for it?:confused:
 
Pidge...I said elevate to the very slight angle of the bevel on the rail. That is not "jacking up" the cue, and is only nominally more elevated than resting the cue on the rail in normal shots. The method I described allows for a more accurate strike on the CB, and less chance of a miscue, imo.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
My post was not thrown your way, Scott. Just a badly timed post on my part. I mentioned about jacking up simply because I see a lot trying it.
 
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