tips
- Thread starter LCCS
- Start date
A little spit & brown cardboard is hard to beat. Many makers use a "special" sauce & may not want to share the info. I have tried the Tiger product in the past and it works well.
Friction polish.
Fast drying shaft sealer works good if you are not happy with regular burnishing with paper towel or cardboard while spinning on the lathe. Be careful with cardboard around some of the softer plastic ferrules as they can melt in a hurry. Also be careful with the sealer as not to get it on the crowned area of the tip.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
I've used the tiger burnisher and leather. Don't hold the leather on too long and make sure the speed of your lathe is not too fast either.
Dave
Dave
For Lepro's I still do the old stain marker on the sides. They look nice that way. Sometimes ya don't need it if they polish up nice. For tirangles, elkmasters an black buffalos I use the lold black sharpie
Moori's and most other layered tips just spit and paper towell do just fine.
Moori's and most other layered tips just spit and paper towell do just fine.
Other than appearance, is their any real purpose in burnishing a tip? After trimming, I finish my tips with progressively finer grades of abrasive paper, finishing with 4000 and 8000 for a shiny tip and ferrule. I've never done the leather, paper bag, or back of sandpaper routines. Just making sure I'm not missing anything. I've heard the tales at the hall about wet burnishing preventing mushrooming, delamination etc., but it sounds like just tales. Figured I'd jump in this thread and get a pro opinion.
Bill
Bill
I agree with Joey
A Turners Friction Polish like HUT works great. It is a blend of alcohol, shellac, and waxes. I clean the ferrule first then coat both ferrule and tip side with the polish on a paper towel piece, them immediately buff with a dry part of that paper towel, looks like it came out of the finest of factories in just seconds! If you had to sand a little of the shaft near the ferrule to match both in size better, just use the polish to make it all look like new and blended perfectly when you are done.
Joey: I think you were the first to turn me on to the HUT polish some time ago, if I remember right ...thank you!
A Turners Friction Polish like HUT works great. It is a blend of alcohol, shellac, and waxes. I clean the ferrule first then coat both ferrule and tip side with the polish on a paper towel piece, them immediately buff with a dry part of that paper towel, looks like it came out of the finest of factories in just seconds! If you had to sand a little of the shaft near the ferrule to match both in size better, just use the polish to make it all look like new and blended perfectly when you are done.
Joey: I think you were the first to turn me on to the HUT polish some time ago, if I remember right ...thank you!
I think adding some spit and burnishing does more than improve appearance. Doesn't the leather need a certain amount of moisture to protect the fibers from cracking and to harden the tip? Every really good player I have seen adds moisture to his tips.
