Dave,
Yes maybe not such a good idea with a modern charger.
I have a old Schumauker with a heavy transformer not a lightweight unit with the chips and circuit board.
I use the 60 amp boost mode and the heat ramps up fast.
Rick
titanium
- Thread starter whammo57
- Start date
Dave,
Yes maybe not such a good idea with a modern charger.
I have a old Schumauker with a heavy transformer not a lightweight unit with the chips and circuit board.
I use the 60 amp boost mode and the heat ramps up fast.
Rick
If you are going to blowtorch the screw, cut up an aluminum joint protector in a third and protect the face. You can make a washer to place in between them too.
A wet napkin around the collar is a must too.
Or we can all use brass joint screw. Much easier to machine out. :wink:
A wet napkin around the collar is a must too.
Or we can all use brass joint screw. Much easier to machine out. :wink:
If this were even 1/10 of 1% a knowledgeable idea here's the difference between Rick and a professional. You've only given "some" of your idiotic idea in this post and then later try to cover your ass by saying your battery charger is better than all over others. You sir, are a moron that is going to get some unsuspecting newbie seriously hurt by spewing your ridiculous wisdom.
Rick...trying to cover his stupidity with another ridiculous post.
Rick...trying to cover his stupidity with another ridiculous post.
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My experience has been that TI does not transfer heat as well as the other commonly used pin metals.
I love you too Davy,
Battery Chargers of old had very heavy duty transformers wound around an E and an I shape. As the other Dave pointed out some modern chargers have light weight circuit boards and chips. He made a good point!
Mr. B, these posts are only a matter of opinion. No need to get fidgety, everything is cool.:wink::smile:
Rick
And the battery charger is safer than blowtorch, how????
Pure gibberish. Your very poorly thought out idea applies heat (if the battery charger doesn't cook first) to the WRONG end of the pin long before it can get to the glued area. Heat has to travel down the length of the pin so there is no question the part of the pin right where it meets the joint face will get hot well before the blind end does - that's just pure immutable physics.
So the question becomes, can you get the far end of the pin hot enough BEFORE you begin to degrade the wood at the joint face? No matter what sort of BS you try to spew here, Rick, there is no way for you to measure the heat at the blind end of the pin. So it doesn't matter - and , in fact, is irrelevant - if you "monitor the pin temperature" out where you can see it. The glue at the blind end has to reach failure temperature, and with your crazy, CRAZY proposed method you are taking a very real chance at damaging the cue in the process.
Most importantly, if none of the above matters to you then you'd be an idiot to not simply use a torch to heat the pin. It's every bit as controllable as your short-circuit proposal with a fraction of the effort.
Ultimately, I call BS on your entire claim here. I very much doubt you have EVER removed a pin the way you say you have, and given the many other silly procedures you've "explained" in the past, I'm afraid I (and many others I am sure) would like to see some proof. Maybe you should make a video, as has already been suggested. Short of that it all just sounds like another "Rickism".
TW
Have you tried drilling titanium screws?
BOOM!!!!
Well Said Sir!!
:thumbup2:
Watch out for a huge long winded reply that will say hes just to smart for us all to understand and that you and joey and even TW dont know what your talking about
Greenies for you!
Titanium is similar to aluminum, with the right tooling and speed. The problem arises when it gets work hardened which is very easy to do. Cutting to slowly or stopping the tool will immediately harden the piece and then the only way to cut it again is to get under the hardened layer. A machinists friend of mine told me he likes working with titanium but that if he work hardens a piece you are truly screwed. It's for this reason that I have doubts about drilling a titanium pin out.
Dick
Yes, you've suggested this twice now, so I guess it needs to be addressed. Others have already pointed out that drilling out a titanium bolt can be fraught with peril, but let me just address the actual "drilling out" part.
The joint pin is held in by a glue bond between the outer threads and the cue. You suggest going slowly, taking your time - so obviously you have no intention of generating much heat in the pin. Following this plan, the most likely result will be a very thin ring of bolt threads, looking much like a coil spring, lining the inside of your now-drilled hole with no easy way to pick those threads out.
Then, when you go to a larger drill diameter to try get the what's left of of the bolt out, the metal threads will wind and twist unevenly around the drill bit, tearing out the surrounding wood in an uneven and non-concentric fashion - eventually leaving you with a ragged, ugly, oversize off-center crater. Your only choice after that will be to bore an even larger hole and plug it - a very amateur and unsatisfactory result considering that you could have done a beautiful seamless bolt change-out if you had only known what you were doing.
TW
(PS: That said, I have had some success drilling the exposed part of the joint pin conventionally, then reversing rotation and "aggressively" drilling with a left-handed drill bit, intentionally generating heat in the bottom half of the pin. That heat, combined with the un-screwing action of the reverse rotation can do the trick all by itself. When that fails to complete the task - as often is the case - I can then go to my heated steel rod approach detailed in an earlier post.)
Ti is ok to drill, just need sharp tools and a method to keep the tip cool. CoHss drills that are chisel point sharpened work a lot better than standard sharpened drills. Like Thomas mentioned, there are advantages to using LH drills for removing screws etc. Most Ti alloys will work harden if the heat build up is too much or if the tool rubs, ie is not positively cutting. Like drilling stainless steel, 1/2 the speed and twice the feed.
There have been some very good advice here.
Neil
There have been some very good advice here.
Neil
Joey, Yes I have drilled titanium screws that were inserted incorrectly and the runout exceeded the tolerance. A carbide drill, coolant to keep the drill cold wipe the excess and go in .050 at a time slow speed say 400-600 RPM and take your time don't work harden the titanium and unnecessarily dull the drill. Then fill with DP 420 and re-machine for the new pin.
Obviously water and wood don't like each other. However you need some lubricity and you must keep the drill cool or you run the risk of heating the front. The coolant applied to the drill once it exits the hole will keep the drill cool the little remaining coolant will not affect the wood.Are you suggesting using coolant when drilling into a wood forearm?
This contradicts your premise of drilling the pin out completely. Yes, while you are using smaller diameters initially you can keep the coolant - water OR oil based - away from the wood. But when you get so close that there are only the actual metal threads left what will you do then?
You post anonymously - and are "new" here - so you can feed us any bullsh*t you want, but I've been doing this for 30+ years and I've pulled out my share of joint bolts. Some of the other guys chiming in may have pulled out more pins than I've ever even installed . My sense is that you've never actually pulled a joint pin out of a cue by simply by drilling it out [as you are proposing]. Could be wrong, but that's my take at this point.
TW