titanium

Thomas Wayne said:


I guess I would like you to be specific, if you don't mind.

Since I know from experience that you won't entertain any debate after you've made a statement I'll offer my own analysis [of the offending quote] first:

1) I point out a hard-to-forsee but very real obstacle in attempting to drill out a threaded member and still leave a pristine threaded hole when finished. I can't imagine making that point violates any rule.

2) I then ask the poster ("Cocoa") how he will deal with that issue. Again, how could that be a violation?

3) I point out that the poster ("Cocoa") is anonymous [presumably - maybe momma called him "Cocoa", but we still lack a last name] so we have no way to judge the veracity of anything he says, OR his experience in the craft. Surely it's not a violation to point out such an obvious truth... is it?

4) I use the minced oath "bullsh*t" to abbreviate what he could be offering, but in NO way do I say (or even suggest) that he IS offering that. I see others use similar minced oaths without fear of reprisal, but I also know that I am a bit of a special target for you, so if using that characterization is a violation I will be more than happy to never, ever do it again.

5) I point out that I am very experienced in the subject at hand, and that others [who also disagree with "Cocoa"] are likely to be even more experienced than I am. These are simple facts; I would be quite interested to know if pointing them out is a violation of forum rules.

6) Finally, I offer my sense that he ("Cocoa") may not be very experienced in removing joint pins - obviously this is only an opinion, which is why I refer to it as "my sense" - AND I allow that I may be mistaken in my assessment [of his knowledge, skill, or and/or experience.] Violation?

Your turn, Mr. Wilson - you offered to be "very specific", and I guess I would like to take you up on that offer.

If you feel my above summary is in any way inaccurate I would be interested in knowing how that is so. If you feel that I am wrong about which statements are (or are not) violations of the rules I would be very interested in knowing how that is so as well.

I am both willing and able to play by ANY rules you like. But I would think it's fair that we be playing on a level field, where ALL are bound by the same rules. When one member finds himself chastised - or worse yet, disciplined - without any notice of how or why that action has been taken it creates an atmosphere of inequity and "good old boys club".

When one member can freely violate any forum rule he wants because he's "buddies with the boss", while another member seems to have a big target on his forehead, that forum will inescapably gain a reputation for inequitable treatment of it's general membership. As a rational, fair minded person I would think you don't want such a reputation for this forum or for yourself - fairly earned or otherwise.

TW
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Thomas; Time and again, you defy any authority to ask you for civility.
The rules posted have been the core tenet of this community for a very long time and yet you bristle at the merest coaxing to change the manner and tone that you address our members with.
You'd go further and suggest some form of favoritism.
Add this to the general condescending tone you wish to reply to myself with and we have a complete lack of respect being displayed.

This is a shame that action will be taken, as you are a wealth of information.
We'll see you in a while.

Have a nice day.

Dave
 
scdiveteam said:
]



A serious question Ryan with all kidding aside.

I believe you have done a ton of pin torching. Why did you decide to get the Miniductor?

KISS would dictate using the torch forevermore because of the past success.

Inquiring minds wish to know!

Also do you use Butane or Map gas?

Rick
Click to expand...

Induction heating will heat the pin more evenly. This means that the entire pin will come up to temperature at the same speed, which means that the base of the pin will be pretty much the same temperature as the tip.

When using the torch (unless going very slowly), the pin heats to probably 600deg at the tip to get the base to the ~300deg which is required to break down epoxy. Seeing as how wood chars at around 450deg, this is bad.

The torch is fine, if used properly, but an inductance heater is much more precise and easier to use.
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Induction heating will heat the pin more evenly. This means that the entire pin will come up to temperature at the same speed, which means that the base of the pin will be pretty much the same temperature as the tip.

When using the torch (unless going very slowly), the pin heats to probably 600deg at the tip to get the base to the ~300deg which is required to break down epoxy. Seeing as how wood chars at around 450deg, this is bad.

The torch is fine, if used properly, but an inductance heater is much more precise and easier to use.
Click to expand...

How about shorting the pin with a battery charger while you keep an ice pack close to the collar ?:D
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Induction heating will heat the pin more evenly. This means that the entire pin will come up to temperature at the same speed, which means that the base of the pin will be pretty much the same temperature as the tip.
Click to expand...

This would be true only if the entire pin is in the magnetic field. If you have only the exposed portion of the pin in the field then the heat must build up in the tip and flow into the embedded part. Now if you could wrap the coil around the wood covering the epoxied in pin then you could heat the glued part leaving the tip cool :thumbup: Of course this will not work with a stainless steel collared joint as the collar will heat rather than the pin :eek:

ElCorazonFrio said:
When using the torch (unless going very slowly), the pin heats to probably 600deg at the tip to get the base to the ~300deg which is required to break down epoxy. Seeing as how wood chars at around 450deg, this is bad.

The torch is fine, if used properly, but an inductance heater is much more precise and easier to use.
Click to expand...

As you likely know, induction heaters are tuned to the material they are to heat, and for the depth of heating. I note the Miniductor specifies "ferrous metals", and of course Ti is not ferrous. Not sure how well it would work on Ti or Al or brass pins .... and of course totally useless on G10 :)

Induction heating is fascinating stuff ... here is a good website for non-technical folks : http://inductoheat.com/what-is-induction/

Interesting discussion but I am very disappointed that TW was banned. Sometimes one needs thick skin rather than protection.

Dave
 
DaveK said:
This would be true only if the entire pin is in the magnetic field. If you have only the exposed portion of the pin in the field then the heat must build up in the tip and flow into the embedded part. Now if you could wrap the coil around the wood covering the epoxied in pin then you could heat the glued part leaving the tip cool :thumbup: Of course this will not work with a stainless steel collared joint as the collar will heat rather than the pin :eek:



As you likely know, induction heaters are tuned to the material they are to heat, and for the depth of heating. I note the Miniductor specifies "ferrous metals", and of course Ti is not ferrous. Not sure how well it would work on Ti or Al or brass pins .... and of course totally useless on G10 :)

Induction heating is fascinating stuff ... here is a good website for non-technical folks : http://inductoheat.com/what-is-induction/

Interesting discussion but I am very disappointed that TW was banned. Sometimes one needs thick skin rather than protection.

Dave
Click to expand...

Induction heating works on non ferrous metals..... Where I worked we did induction brazing on copper joints......... Magnetic Induction induces a current by a changing magnetic field in any conductor.............

It is true that some machines may be tuned to be more efficient with specific metals.

Kim
 
Mr. Wilson said:
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Although the administrators and moderators of AzBilliards Forums will attempt to keep all objectionable messages off this forum, it is impossible for us to review all messages. All messages express the views of the author, and neither the owners of AzBilliards Forums, nor Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. (developers of vBulletin) will be held responsible for the content of any message.

By agreeing to these rules, you warrant that you will not post any messages that are obscene, vulgar, sexually-oriented, hateful, threatening, or otherwise violative of any laws.

To be included, there will be no ad hominem attacks. No name calling nor insults. Disagreeing with someone is fine, but calling them an idiot because of their opinion is not.

All posts will be kept civil.

Items that will be allowed for sale must be pool related.

The owners of AzBilliards Forums reserve the right to remove, edit, move or close any thread for any reason.
I have read, and agree to abide by the AzBilliards Forums rules.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thomas; Time and again, you defy any authority to ask you for civility.
The rules posted have been the core tenet of this community for a very long time and yet you bristle at the merest coaxing to change the manner and tone that you address our members with.
You'd go further and suggest some form of favoritism.
Add this to the general condescending tone you wish to reply to myself with and we have a complete lack of respect being displayed.

This is a shame that action will be taken, as you are a wealth of information.
We'll see you in a while.

Have a nice day.

Dave
Click to expand...

Dave-
I just reread every post. Twice.
I think you are miles off the mark. I absolutely cannot see how you perceive Thomas Wayne as the bad guy here.

What can you possibly be thinking?

I challenge you to go back and reread every post and tell me that he was the chief rule breaker. I absolutely don't see it.

On related subjects:

I have no problem having people post nutball ideas. We are all big boys here and it's for us, as adults, to sort the turds from the peaches. However I reserve the right to point out to interested parties which I think is which. I think this is fair.

I've never understood the purpose of posting anonymously. It's like walking into a convenience store with a hood over your head.
"No, really! I'm cool. I just want to buy beer!"
Right.

Robin Snyder
 
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Mr. Wilson said:
Thomas; Time and again, you defy any authority to ask you for civility.
The rules posted have been the core tenet of this community for a very long time and yet you bristle at the merest coaxing to change the manner and tone that you address our members with.
You'd go further and suggest some form of favoritism.
Add this to the general condescending tone you wish to reply to myself with and we have a complete lack of respect being displayed.

This is a shame that action will be taken, as you are a wealth of information.
We'll see you in a while.

Have a nice day.

Dave
Click to expand...

Again, I've reread what you posted and I'm afraid I see no merit in your sweeping statements.

To say that Thomas Wayne was a bad actor here at all, let alone the worst one, is simply not supported by facts. And yes, it certainly appears as though "justice" is not dispensed uniformly and I cannot imagine anyone who could possibly miss it, especially in this particular thread.

Robin Snyder
 
carguy said:
To say that Thomas Wayne was a bad actor here at all,

Robin Snyder
Click to expand...

Agreed.

It's too bad that TW was banned. SCDive should be banned for eternity for all of the misinformation he spouts. He seems to want to anger people and in this thread seems to advocate injuring people, also.

I've never read one thing from him on this forum that is the least bit sensible, correct or logical. Yet, because he has, apparently, turned a piece of wood round, he is allowed to keep going here.
 
DaveK said:
This would be true only if the entire pin is in the magnetic field. If you have only the exposed portion of the pin in the field then the heat must build up in the tip and flow into the embedded part. Now if you could wrap the coil around the wood covering the epoxied in pin then you could heat the glued part leaving the tip cool :thumbup: Of course this will not work with a stainless steel collared joint as the collar will heat rather than the pin :eek:



As you likely know, induction heaters are tuned to the material they are to heat, and for the depth of heating. I note the Miniductor specifies "ferrous metals", and of course Ti is not ferrous. Not sure how well it would work on Ti or Al or brass pins .... and of course totally useless on G10 :)

Induction heating is fascinating stuff ... here is a good website for non-technical folks : http://inductoheat.com/what-is-induction/

Interesting discussion but I am very disappointed that TW was banned. Sometimes one needs thick skin rather than protection.

Dave
Click to expand...

Cool, you are obviously more versed in it than I.

I expect it is still a more controlled way to heat the pin.

What, it won't work on a material designed to be an electrical insulator? Weird.

Best, ECF
 
whammo57 said:
Induction heating works on non ferrous metals..... Where I worked we did induction brazing on copper joints......... Magnetic Induction induces a current by a changing magnetic field in any conductor.............

It is true that some machines may be tuned to be more efficient with specific metals.

Kim
Click to expand...

I know.

Dave <--- Electrical Engineer, liked Faradays style more than Clerk Maxwells, but understood the Scots equations well enough :thumbup:
 
DaveK said:
I know.

Dave <--- Electrical Engineer, liked Faradays style more than Clerk Maxwells, but understood the Scots equations well enough :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thank you for the clarification...............


Kim <----- AAS BBA MBA................. I dispute Avagadro's number
 
Lets come back to the subject of removing bent screws. I have always used the torch. I would love to have an miniductor to do the job with, but have been too cheap to spend $600 for one.
If I knew a little more about them I might have my dad build me one. He has worked on electronics since before I was born and still runs his TV repair shop. At 80 years old he would probably like a new project. If anyone has info about how these things work I might see what he would build us something that would work for.
 
whammo57 said:
When I started this.... I thought it was just a simple question.................

Kim
Click to expand...

It was .
You found Rick's potential LETHAL tip interesting .
And it turns out, you know about induction heater .
You know that drilling titanium would a be a huge PITA.
Hell, grinding glue channel on TI screw is a huge PITA already.
 
I am surprised that Ricky gave his buddy advice that could have hurt him... nice bud....not!
 
whammo57 said:
When I started this.... I thought it was just a simple question.................

Kim
Click to expand...

It was a simple question and the simple answer is: Yes you can remove the titanium screw with a torch or most any other method just like you can a stainless screw.
 
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