Recently chipped a ferrule (my fault) and had an ivory one installed in it's place. I am now getting a VERY noticeably higher amount of deflection. Not sure of the other ferrule material (LBM maybe?) so I don't know what I'm comparing it to... what I do know is the CB is squirting an extra 2 inches at 9 feet of med-firm maximum sidespin. I've always heard and believed that ferrule material alters deflection... but I had no idea it could have this strong of an effect. Just thought I'd post my experience for you to read. Same tip and shape, by the way.
To contribute to the ferrule material deflection argument...
- Thread starter spindoctor9
- Start date
What is the best?
Many prefer the look, feel, sound etc. of Ivory and they have learned to compensate for the deflection. For those people it is their preference for others something else will work better for them. In my opinion Steel or brass would be far worse than ivory.
Agree completely! I love the sound of this ferrule and the fact that chalk rubs right off is great. The feel is good and though I'm getting used to the deflection, overall it's not for me.
Just wanted to post my experience for anyone out there debating over ferrules.
I like it more than a saber-t ferrule I have on another shaft... some people swear by them, but I swear they weigh 40 pounds! I have a shaft with a juma ferrule which I really like... chalk resistant too.
I for one love my ivory ferrule. I was using an OB-1 on my old cue before I got the new one with the ivory.
Clean is the only word that comes to mind when I think about the hit and feel of it. I'm sure it didn't hurt that when I first started using it I would use less english because I wasn't as confident with it as I was with the OB. Over time, I guess I just learned to subconsciously adjust because I can't remember ever thinking about how the cueball was going to squirt. Different strokes for different folks and all that...
Clean is the only word that comes to mind when I think about the hit and feel of it. I'm sure it didn't hurt that when I first started using it I would use less english because I wasn't as confident with it as I was with the OB. Over time, I guess I just learned to subconsciously adjust because I can't remember ever thinking about how the cueball was going to squirt. Different strokes for different folks and all that...
I like Ivory. :smile:
It's expensive.
Plays great. :smile:
More deflection than plastic.
Stays clean. :smile:
I think it's the best ferrule material. But I also like linen wraps and real maple shafts with non-layered tips.......
"Long time comin"
Bottom line, Ivory has less ferule deflection! Creates a "LARGE" amount of cue-ball "SQUIRT!" , Why, because it is so---- much stiffer than any of the plastics.
ABS, has a large amount of ferule deflection! Creates a "small" amount of cue-ball squirt!!! Why, because it is so-----much softer than Ivory.
The issue of mislabeling "low cue-ball deflection" and "high cue-ball deflection" is preposterous!
"Pool-player-lingo" began this piece of illiteracy and it continues today because no one wants to get the point, and straighten out what is implied by the terminology being misrepresented by players and companies alike.
High deflection shafts move out of the way of the cue-ball when the cue-ball is struck, thus, the cue-ball travels on a bit straighter line towards where it was aimed!
Low deflection shafts send the cue-ball sideways at impact, hence the term, "cue-ball squirt." Here, it takes "MORE" (there is always some amount of aiming compensation when the cue-ball is struck out on it's edge) of mental compensation to get the cue-ball heading towards the players desired destination.
Deflection happens mostly in the cue shaft as an overall response to the force of impact with the cue-ball! It happens in varying degree's, according to how the shaft is made internaly, the amount and type of taper, and of course the materials used in the shafts construction.
As far as cue-ball deflection goes, it takes something on the order of an electron microscope to measure that, and that measurement would be taken on the surface of the cue-ball, NOT from the movement of the ball on the surface of the table, that measurement is called, cue-ball "SQUIRT!". Again, cue-ball squirt is the reaction of the cue-ball on the playing surface, the result of where the force was applied to it when it was struck by the cue tip at impact.
A shaft deflects more or less as the result of the materials and type of construction, cue-ball squirt occurs, more or less, according to the aforementioned elements, however, the term, "cue-ball deflection," is misrepresented, mislabeled Pool world jargon!uttahere:
Bottom line, Ivory has less ferule deflection! Creates a "LARGE" amount of cue-ball "SQUIRT!" , Why, because it is so---- much stiffer than any of the plastics.
ABS, has a large amount of ferule deflection! Creates a "small" amount of cue-ball squirt!!! Why, because it is so-----much softer than Ivory.
The issue of mislabeling "low cue-ball deflection" and "high cue-ball deflection" is preposterous!
"Pool-player-lingo" began this piece of illiteracy and it continues today because no one wants to get the point, and straighten out what is implied by the terminology being misrepresented by players and companies alike.
High deflection shafts move out of the way of the cue-ball when the cue-ball is struck, thus, the cue-ball travels on a bit straighter line towards where it was aimed!
Low deflection shafts send the cue-ball sideways at impact, hence the term, "cue-ball squirt." Here, it takes "MORE" (there is always some amount of aiming compensation when the cue-ball is struck out on it's edge) of mental compensation to get the cue-ball heading towards the players desired destination.
Deflection happens mostly in the cue shaft as an overall response to the force of impact with the cue-ball! It happens in varying degree's, according to how the shaft is made internaly, the amount and type of taper, and of course the materials used in the shafts construction.
As far as cue-ball deflection goes, it takes something on the order of an electron microscope to measure that, and that measurement would be taken on the surface of the cue-ball, NOT from the movement of the ball on the surface of the table, that measurement is called, cue-ball "SQUIRT!". Again, cue-ball squirt is the reaction of the cue-ball on the playing surface, the result of where the force was applied to it when it was struck by the cue tip at impact.
A shaft deflects more or less as the result of the materials and type of construction, cue-ball squirt occurs, more or less, according to the aforementioned elements, however, the term, "cue-ball deflection," is misrepresented, mislabeled Pool world jargon!
uttahere:
Is OB's wooden ferrule the best as far as lowest deflection? If so, why doesn't Predator go with wood then?
Uncapped ferrules are made from many ferrule materials, but it is new for me that also from ivory you can make an uncapped ferrule. Is there any special reason that it may be more difficult to make uncapped ferrules from ivory than in comparison to other materials?
Its more to do with weight than "flexability". Ivory is actually stiffer than many plastics.
Capped or uncapped is not about difficulty but I'd say uncapped is probably 'easier' but seemingly less common for some reason.
Anywho.....
I play uncapped ivory ferules on almost everything and have a couple of shafts that do infact "deflect more" than some of my supposed LD shafts. AKA are as LD or more LD than comparable shafts marketed as such so it is possible that factors outside of ferule material impact induced CB squirt.
To the poster above who feels the need to post in excessively large colored fonts, I personally find that distracting, rude and insulting. As of this point your being placed on my ignore list so if I don't respond to your posts after this point, it is infact personal. Thanks.
:smile:
Capped or uncapped is not about difficulty but I'd say uncapped is probably 'easier' but seemingly less common for some reason.
Anywho.....
I play uncapped ivory ferules on almost everything and have a couple of shafts that do infact "deflect more" than some of my supposed LD shafts. AKA are as LD or more LD than comparable shafts marketed as such so it is possible that factors outside of ferule material impact induced CB squirt.
To the poster above who feels the need to post in excessively large colored fonts, I personally find that distracting, rude and insulting. As of this point your being placed on my ignore list so if I don't respond to your posts after this point, it is infact personal. Thanks.
:smile:
Recently I made a shaft for my Jacoby and used a 1/2 inch ivory
(uncapped) ferrule with a Triangle tip. Noticeably less deflection than my old shafts and for me it plays great.
(uncapped) ferrule with a Triangle tip. Noticeably less deflection than my old shafts and for me it plays great.
this thread will add to the discussion
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=263647
the end mass of the shaft contributes to squirt
more mass = more squirt all else being equal
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=263647
the end mass of the shaft contributes to squirt
more mass = more squirt all else being equal
Just out of curiosity why did you dicide to go with ivory??? I agree Ivory deflects quite a lot.
Furule material IMO, effects the hit in very subtle ways. Its something hard to quantify as different people are sensitive to different aspects of "the hit". However a thru or uncapped ferule takes most of the ferule materials 'feel' out of the equation as most of the force now passes straight from the tip to the shaft without impact thru the ferule.
an uncapped ferrule is sort of a wood tenon with an ivory sleeve??
so the tip sits on wood and ivory?? yes???
a capped ferrule is like a condom of ivory around the wood tenon??
sorry to use that analogy
so whatever thickness of the ivory between the end of the wood tenon and the tip is the extra weight between the 2 types of ferrules???
how thick is that usually???
so the tip sits on wood and ivory?? yes???
a capped ferrule is like a condom of ivory around the wood tenon??
sorry to use that analogy
so whatever thickness of the ivory between the end of the wood tenon and the tip is the extra weight between the 2 types of ferrules???
how thick is that usually???