Turning schedule on a forearm/handle/butt?

JaktUpCues

JaktUpCues

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I have searched the forums and I have Chris's book and dvd's and all I hear is "wait awhile" between turns, but no estimated wait time. I know there is a "schedule" for turning shafts (timing varied depending on who you ask), but is it the same for turning a square blank into a forearm, handle, or butt? Do I need to wait after cutting off the edges to an octagon before I start more passes? Or just in between passes. I'm using bem, cm, and brazilian rw.

Thanks
 
Once I cut the edges off a square I will turn it round. I will let it set a month and take about .100 off of it . Then I will let is set 2-3 months and take .100 off of it. Another 2-3 months I will make a clean up and cut points in it if it is getting points. If not I will core it and glue a core in it. If getting points I will do a small clean up. Cut and glue points in it and core it and glue in core the next day. Glue up ring work and core handle and glue on the next day. Then every couple months make small cuts. 6 months attach butt sleeve . Then continue the process until done.
 
I do mine a little different. I take the squares and turn to 8 sides on the router and then turn to round on the CNC down to 1.36. I let these hang for at least a month usually longer and then I core with maple core and let hang for another month minimum. I then cut to .040 oversize for forearms and let hang for another month minimum. I say minimum but usually they end up hanging for a year or longer before I use them. I have yet to have any that have moved in the least bit.
 
I started using solid fronts / handles. Now I core everything, why ? Stability and weight control. With mine I turn from square to round (1.380) and dip it and let it hang for a month. I then core it and it sits another month ish. 3 taper passes later its ready for points if any. Basically a month or two between passes and my cores take even longer ;)
 
Russell Cues said:
I started using solid fronts / handles. Now I core everything
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even Brazilian Rosewood? I have 3 old growth BRW squares. I will definitely take my time on those b/c I don't want to risk messing those up, but also didn't plan on coring them. I am only planning on putting points in 1 of them and just doing unwrapped plain janes on the other 2.
 
That old growth BRW will hit really sweet, but all of the stuff I have is also very heavy.

Alan
 
Some core everything by default, some core nothing.
I core only IF & WHEN necessary.
Brazilian Rose IMHO should never be cored though I know of some who do.

KJ
 
JaktUpCues said:
even Brazilian Rosewood? I have 3 old growth BRW squares. I will definitely take my time on those b/c I don't want to risk messing those up, but also didn't plan on coring them. I am only planning on putting points in 1 of them and just doing unwrapped plain janes on the other 2.
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Well any wood will move if turned to fast, BRW and others are more apt to move if turned to quick. I have made solid brw fronts, ebony, even tulipwood, turn slow and use a sealer between turns. It will slow the moisture exchange to keep down warping. Basically its up to you as to how you build a cue, personal preference.
 
Ya, I understand that cue making requires patients. It's just so hard to not spend all night on the lathe when you love doing it. More practice on cheap dowels for now. Thanks again
 
on some thread

and i qoute " putting a dowel into a piece of brw is like putting a pinto motor into a ferrari. "
i have made a few one piece butt brw cues, and i have found nothing better.
i think you are going to have to develop your own time frame for cutting wood. first get a moisture meter, and check everything that comes into your shop.
i wright date i got the wood,, moisture content, and last turn date on each piece.
some pieces i turn each month, some i wait, 3 months.
my best advice for you is to BUY WOOD , and buy it often.
 
desi2960 said:
my best advice for you is to BUY WOOD , and buy it often.
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This is great advise. It gets like a disease though.
I've never found anything that plays better than a one piece butt except a one piece butt with an epoxied in full core. Purpleheart into purpleheart is not less than amazing.

Robin Snyder

I want to core a BRW with BRW. I have some 1"x30 I can rip.
 
desi2960 said:
and i qoute " putting a dowel into a piece of brw is like putting a pinto motor into a ferrari. "
i have made a few one piece butt brw cues, and i have found nothing better.
i think you are going to have to develop your own time frame for cutting wood. first get a moisture meter, and check everything that comes into your shop.
i wright date i got the wood,, moisture content, and last turn date on each piece.
some pieces i turn each month, some i wait, 3 months.
my best advice for you is to BUY WOOD , and buy it often.
Click to expand...

So basically you are waiting for the moister to get to a certain point before you make another turn? I live in south alabama where it is 88-95 degree's with 90-95% humidity 7 months out of the year. My lathe is in my garage which is not temp controlled, but I'm storing my wood inside my house.
 
So you wait for a specified moisture level before making another turn? I live in south alabama where it is 85-95 degrees and 85-95% humidity 7-8 months out of the year. My lathe is in my garage that isn't temp controlled but I store my wood in my house.
 
JaktUpCues said:
So you wait for a specified moisture level before making another turn? I live in south alabama where it is 85-95 degrees and 85-95% humidity 7-8 months out of the year. My lathe is in my garage that isn't temp controlled but I store my wood in my house.
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You need to move to Colorado. Lol
In those conditions, you won't be drying wood for a long time. If at all.
Unless you have AC in the house most of the time and keep humidity around 35-45%.
You have a logo and a name for your cues already but you haven't learned about wood much yet.
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/
I concur with Chuck.
Start buying a ton of woods. Practice on the cheaper ones.
You will have to make a ton of dust and scraps before you can make one with your name on it.
Cut, cut, cut, turn, turn and turn till you can tell woods by the smell of their dust.
Make dozens of mock-up cues.
 
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JoeyInCali said:
You need to move to Colorado. Lol
In those conditions, you won't be drying wood for a long time. If at all.
Unless you have AC in the house most of the time and keep humidity around 35-45%.
You have a logo and a name for your cues already but you haven't learned about wood much yet.
http://www.bellforestproducts.com/
I concur with Chuck.
Start buying a ton of woods. Practice on the cheaper ones.
You will have to make a ton of dust and scraps before you can make one with your name on it.
Cut, cut, cut, turn, turn and turn till you can tell woods by the smell of their dust.
Make dozens of mock-up cues.
Click to expand...

I spent 5 years in web design and marketing so doing logo and names is something that is important to me. It's also never too early to get people to see your name. I have also been doing tip and cleanings for awhile now.

So far I've been buying the pre-cut forarms/handle/butt from joe to get me started until I have my wood stock built up which is at about 20 squares right now. My house stays at 74-76 degree's and I'm storing the wood upstairs in our bonus room.
 
I am storing my squares, which I have about 20 from bell and joe in my upstairs bonus room where it is 74-76 all day and no one opening windows or doors so the humidity stays low.

As far as having a name and logo, I spent 5 years in web design and marketing so getting people to see the name as early as possible is important to me. My full logo also says refinishing, tip replacement and cue cleaning which I have been doing for awhile now. I have been buying pre-cut forearms/butts/handles from joe for now to practice on and do things for friends.
 
JaktUpCues said:
I am storing my squares, which I have about 20 from bell and joe in my upstairs bonus room where it is 74-76 all day and no one opening windows or doors so the humidity stays low.

As far as having a name and logo, I spent 5 years in web design and marketing so getting people to see the name as early as possible is important to me. My full logo also says refinishing, tip replacement and cue cleaning which I have been doing for awhile now. I have been buying pre-cut forearms/butts/handles from joe for now to practice on and do things for friends.
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Keep buying 1.5 squares, turn them round .
There's plenty of room for movement at that size.
Keep buying 1 3/8 handle rounds and taper them at .100" over-sized on top.
If they warp or move, spin them and look where they warp.
The woods will eventually talk to you. Ok, they won't but you'll learn .
 
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pretty much what thats what im doing is cutting and hanging , i also been doing tips , cleaning , and ferrules since last year , and yes each wood has a smell and i like it!!!:thumbup:
 
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