Using lights to aim

NINEBALLART

NINEBALLART

NINEBALLART
Silver Member
Wondering what some thoughts are on this method...I have had serval players tell me this system and swear by it. I tried it and don't like it.....
They say there are 3 lights shining off the object balls on the table...For cutting balls to the right, aim at light on the left. Aim at light on the right for cutting balls left. And for banking, use the middle light....
One player said he used this method for years.
How about some feedback on this.......Like to know if anyone has tried this and what you think .....
 
Surprisingly enough, if you know how to adjust, it works really well. Banking and straight in shots. Every table plays slightly different, so the method isnt the greatest, imo. But if you check the table, some seem to play better than others with this.

When Im on a new table, I check to see how the lights are aiming and how the shadows are aiming (certain shots, aiming at the shadows can get you out of a pinch). I will use one of these methods if necessary. Either a strange cut or not seeing the balls very well. Under pressure, its helped as well. Shadows, imo, work much much better for aiming and on certain tables, you can play very well just aiming with shadows. Again, doesn't help you much on a table that doesn't, so not the greatest.

This shot right here, and similar, seem to work really well using light reflections. I aim my tip to the light reflection on the cueball (inside english) to the edge of the object ball. So a 1/2 ball cut with inside english.

CueTable Help



It usually works really well... if for some reason you have to shoot this shot. You have to hit it perfect, no matter what system you're using as its not an easy shot. But I've found this to be the way I always shoot this shot and I tend to make it more than I miss it.
 
This has been around for a long time and was, I think, the second system I was introduced to. I was never told anything about adjusting for three lights, though. I've done it but have never been completely comfortable with it.
 
IF you have a 3 bulb table light...

and IF it's in the perfect position....

and IF you ONLY play on that table...

I see how you could adapt to subconscious adjustment to those reference points...


how does shooting by the lights work when shooting on the TV table???

I doubt that anyone who has actually been in the TV table situation......

shoots by the lights..

it's folklore...one guy in a room somewhere who finds a way to make balls on HIS table..... that's not an aiming system ... that's just a guy who knows his table... he swears by it because it works for him... in that room on that table.... but... he WILL NEVER be able to teach you how to see it like he sees it......

what works for one man may not work for another...

if you want to be good on EVERY table EVERY time... you will need something more solid than reflection aiming...


JMHO
 
Ron Vitello used to teach a system like this. There are three lights on the balls if you have three lights above head. If there is a single florescent light then there will be a cresent shape light on the ball. The system is a little more than what you describe as three aiming points.
You might aim at the center of the light, the left or right edge of the light, you might align the side of the stick with the edge of the light or if aiming at the edge of the object ball you would not use the light. All shots are based on center ball hits on the cue ball. If I remember correctly there are eight spots on the object to aim at.
Ron had a rather extensive book of drills for each aiming point. You would have to contact him to see if he still sells it.
 
Aiming at light reflections and shadows obviously can't be exact - it can't even be consistent since lighting changes from table to table. So although similar in concept, it's actually inferior to other "approximation systems" like "ball fractions" and "S.A.M.", which are inexact in consistent ways (I think CTE falls somewhere in between, using parts of the balls but adding subjective adjustments as part of the explicit system).

To me, being able to aim without these artificial aids means more attention available for other aspects of the game.

pj
chgo
 
Last edited:
softshot said:
IF you have a 3 bulb table light...

and IF it's in the perfect position....

and IF you ONLY play on that table...

I see how you could adapt to subconscious adjustment to those reference points...


how does shooting by the lights work when shooting on the TV table???

I doubt that anyone who has actually been in the TV table situation......

shoots by the lights..

it's folklore...one guy in a room somewhere who finds a way to make balls on HIS table..... that's not an aiming system ... that's just a guy who knows his table... he swears by it because it works for him... in that room on that table.... but... he WILL NEVER be able to teach you how to see it like he sees it......

what works for one man may not work for another...

if you want to be good on EVERY table EVERY time... you will need something more solid than reflection aiming...


JMHO
Click to expand...

Ive shot on tv table lights. Ive also shot with no overhead light at all. Ive shot with various overhead lights... if you know how to adjust, it works under all conditions. Some better than others, but it works. Again, shadows works even better. But its all in the adjustment.

I wouldnt use any of these systems to shoot every shot because there IS adjustments. But it DOES work.
 
The only way the light stuff won't work is if you have a light source that doesn't make a shape.

Patrick is right in many aspects; however, I think a lot of people make errors because they don't know how to read the lights properly.

It doesn't matter if there is 1 bulb, 2, 3 or 4 bulbs--- nor does it matter how many long fluorescent bulbs there are. It also doesn't matter if the bulbs are perfectly centered or not.

What does matter is your ability to perceive the "shape" of the light--- it's horizontal limits and its vertical limits. If you can't read the shape, you're digging where there are no taters, for sure.

f_Reflectionm_697ea9d.jpg


This was a graphic I made long ago. This is a Diamond light, I think-- the hardest to read. Use the logic for any reflection.

For the record before Patrick goes off, I'm not a user of the system regularly...if at all. It DOES, however, work... but only if you put in the time to read the geometry of the shape--- and for that, you might as well use some other system that isn't as hard.

Hope this helps,
Dave
 
This is not a new system. I remember guys using this back in the day at the old Q-Spot here in Tulsa. The lights, as spider pointed out so descriptively are simply reference points and no, it doesn't matter where the lights are above, just so long as they are shining from above.

The reflections help you to get 'into' the inner part of the object ball which enables 'micro-technique'. Using CTE and lights are just two examples of player perception in shot making.
 
I had an old timer tell me this system it does work....this is where the term "shoot the lights out" comes from... But I do think it is more of a guide than an exact system you still have to make adjustments
 
NINEBALLART said:
Wondering what some thoughts are on this method...I have had serval players tell me this system and swear by it. I tried it and don't like it.....
They say there are 3 lights shining off the object balls on the table...For cutting balls to the right, aim at light on the left. Aim at light on the right for cutting balls left. And for banking, use the middle light....
One player said he used this method for years.
How about some feedback on this.......Like to know if anyone has tried this and what you think .....
Click to expand...
Bob Jewett wrote an article on this. Here it is:


Regards,
Dave
 
Billiard balls reflect light with the same properties as a convex mirror.

The basic properties of a convex mirror can be found here:
http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/refln/u13l4d.cfm

The point where you "see" the reflection "in" the ball (note that I said "in", not "on") is calculable. What is actually seen is a virtual image.

At one time, I messed around with making a light reflection aiming-trainer using these properties.

While it is plausible that aiming reference points could be inferred from standard table lights, the variation in lighting, and limited number of reference points makes me think that time would be better devoted to other methods. It would be interesting to see someone crank out the optics equations to see if there could be light source(s), that would produce aim points.
 
it is plausible that aiming reference points could be inferred
Click to expand...

I don't see how. Variables include configuration of the light itself (there is no "standard"), height of the light, height of your head, positions of the CB, OB and pocket, to name the obvious ones.

pj
chgo
 
another old timer

When playing on a strange table I first check the light reflection for banks, some times they're right on, if not you have a constant aim source from which to adjust. I look also at the tangent line and later a extended spot on the next table or wall. They usually all line up. If a table banks short the lights are easiest for me to adjust.
Rod. < ---------was never a natural banker, need a target.
 
Last edited:
Patrick Johnson said:
I don't see how. Variables include configuration of the light itself (there is no "standard"), height of the light, height of your head, positions of the CB, OB and pocket, to name the obvious ones.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

Actually, there are some guidelines from the WPA:
15. Lights
The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the
fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view. The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light.
******

However, the call for a diffusing screen pretty well kills the possibility of seeing 3 or 4 individual reflections.

In any event, even straight in shots would be problematic unless the light source was exactly on the shot line.

That's why I gave it up.
 
I use the lights sometimes..............

NINEBALLART said:
Wondering what some thoughts are on this method...I have had serval players tell me this system and swear by it. I tried it and don't like it.....
They say there are 3 lights shining off the object balls on the table...For cutting balls to the right, aim at light on the left. Aim at light on the right for cutting balls left. And for banking, use the middle light....
One player said he used this method for years.
How about some feedback on this.......Like to know if anyone has tried this and what you think .....
Click to expand...

Hi there,
I use anything I can to make the shot easier especially if I'm trying to make a ball for all the cash.
The lights are different on all tables. Some of the reflections are fairly consistent where others are not.

When I decide how much of the object ball I want to hit I sometimes look to see if there is a light reflection that is in that same spot or close. I use this once I get down so I know exactly where to hit the ball.

How I use it is as a reference after you have decided how much of the object ball I want to hit.

The lights are generally not in these perfect spots to just use as a sight. This perception in my opinion is totally wrong and should be discarded.

Have a great day Geno............
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top