ways to clean irish linen wrap??
- Thread starter 9onbreak
- Start date
If you don't have a Lathe there is not much you can do. The best thing to use to clean a dirty linen wrap is a damp cloth with a small amount of Dawn dish washing soap. However, this must be done with the cue spinning in a lathe, then to dry it a dry cloth must be used, and last the cleaned wrap must be re-pressed.
But keep in mind depending upon the color of the warp and the condition of the wrap it may or may not be able to be completely cleaned. I don't know where you are located, and the price will be different from place to place, but the price of new wrap is not that expensive. For my local customers, I charge $40 for new linen wrap, if you decide to have it changed go with a dark color for your new wrap it will be easier to keep clean.
For a new wrap, wiping it down with a slightly damp cloth once in a while will not hurt it at all, keep this in mind for future reference.
Take care
For maintenance, you can run a piece of wax paper up and down the linen until it heats slightly. From my experience using this method, it will usually make scratches or discoloring disappear. This will usually make the wrap look new or newer. IMO, it will have a nice feel that grips well also.
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second that, been using it for a long time
You can clean both the shaft and the linen wrap using denatured rubbing alcohol. Just put some on a rag and wipe the linen wrap until it's clean.
I've used Quick-Clean (that stuff to clean the table cloth) on my wrap. It did a decent, not great, job with no bad effects. If you want to make the wrap look like new, this won't do it, but it will make it look better.
I wouldn't buy it for its wrap-cleaning ability, but if you already have it for cleaning your table you could give it a try.
I wouldn't buy it for its wrap-cleaning ability, but if you already have it for cleaning your table you could give it a try.
Secaucus Fats
Banned
I don't like using wax paper on a wrap. I tried that years ago before I bought my Cue Companion lathe and I found that it left the wrap feeling sticky, and that stickiness attracts chalk and dirt like a magnet. I recommend wiping with a dry microfiber cloth going with the direction of the linen wrap. Other than that.. just give it to a competent cue repair guy and have him clean it and press it. If it's downright nasty just have the repair guy install a new wrap.
+1 for this method ...
People are always trying to clean their shafts and such with alcohol. I never could understand the logic myself. Alcohol is a great disinfectant but it certainly is not known as a solvent or cleaning agent, so if I ever want to kill the bacteria on my cue I'll be sure to use it. I use ammonia for cleaning the shaft, and if need be, the wrap. It does a much better job as that is what it is for and it evaporates just as quickly as alcohol. The best way to clean a wrap is with dish soap, which dissolves the grease and oils, and water and then rinsed off with water, re-pressed and sealed. The thing is is that it is imperative to have a lathe that runs quickly enough so that the pressing effort quickly dries the water completely or chances are you will end up with a warped handle. I also quit using wax or starch on a wrap probably 30 years ago for the reasons stated in an earlier post.
This is from someone who has cleaned many wraps and thousands upon thousands of shafts.
Dick
I own a Predator shaft so if the manufacturer recommends using denatured rubbing alcohol to clean the shaft, that's the recommendation that I'm going to follow.
However, in browsing the Predator web site this morning, it appears that the web site has been revamped. I was not able to find the Predator shaft cleaning recommendations that had been previously displayed on their web site. I sent Predator an email to inquire about it so if they reply back, I'll post their response.
A friend of mine told me to try some Woolite spray carpet cleaner on a damp wash cloth to clean irish linen. It works pretty well, but don't get the linen too damp or you'll need to have it re-pressed. There are some excellent suggestions in this thread also.
James
James
Here's the response I got from Predator on cleaning the shaft:
"To clean your Predator shaft, use a towel slightly dampened with rubbing alcohol. After cleaning, use a leather burnisher or similar material to seal the shaft. Using a Carnuba wax may also help to seal the shaft and protect it from moisture damage. To avoid damage, do not sand the shaft; no abrasive is necessary. Do not expose the shaft to excessive moisture and do not steam it to remove dings. Do not use a water-based cleaner."
Be careful with the types of alcohol
PoolSharkAllen:
Thank you very much for your follow-up in this. As a humble suggestion, though, there are two things you might want to be aware of:
1. There's no such thing as "denatured rubbing alcohol." That's a misnomer. There's either denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol. The two are completely different compounds. For one thing, denatured alcohol is largely ethyl alcohol (the normally drinkable kind), with methyl/wood alcohol added as a "poisoning agent" to prevent people from drinking it. In other words, denatured alcohol is a mixture of two different alcohols, and additionally, it is anhydrous (i.e. no water -- the mixture is 100% alcohol) so it is an excellent solvent and fuel for alcohol stoves/heaters. Rubbing alcohol, on the other hand, is a mixture of one type of alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) with water. Depending on the formulation, it's anywhere from 50% isopropyl alcohol / 50% water ("dollar store" rubbing alcohol) to 91% isopropyl alcohol / 9% water (high-end pharmaceutical rubbing alcohol).
2. Although Predator makes mention of rubbing alcohol, notice how careful they are about water on the shaft. Therefore, I would avoid rubbing alcohol -- even the high-end 91% pharmaceutical stuff. Denatured alcohol would be a lot better, since it's 100% alcohol (it has to be, in order to dissolve shellac and be used as a fuel). You can obtain denatured alcohol at any hardware store (including your nearby "orange box" <-- click here for link to product) or any store that sells heaters and stoves.
I personally use denatured alcohol, and have been for over 20 years. With the introduction of the Magic Eraser product to the market several years ago, a perfect pair have now been formed in my shaft maintenance kit.
Apologies for the chemistry lesson, but I hope this is helpful,
-Sean
PoolSharkAllen:
Thank you very much for your follow-up in this. As a humble suggestion, though, there are two things you might want to be aware of:
1. There's no such thing as "denatured rubbing alcohol." That's a misnomer. There's either denatured alcohol, or rubbing alcohol. The two are completely different compounds. For one thing, denatured alcohol is largely ethyl alcohol (the normally drinkable kind), with methyl/wood alcohol added as a "poisoning agent" to prevent people from drinking it. In other words, denatured alcohol is a mixture of two different alcohols, and additionally, it is anhydrous (i.e. no water -- the mixture is 100% alcohol) so it is an excellent solvent and fuel for alcohol stoves/heaters. Rubbing alcohol, on the other hand, is a mixture of one type of alcohol (isopropyl alcohol) with water. Depending on the formulation, it's anywhere from 50% isopropyl alcohol / 50% water ("dollar store" rubbing alcohol) to 91% isopropyl alcohol / 9% water (high-end pharmaceutical rubbing alcohol).
2. Although Predator makes mention of rubbing alcohol, notice how careful they are about water on the shaft. Therefore, I would avoid rubbing alcohol -- even the high-end 91% pharmaceutical stuff. Denatured alcohol would be a lot better, since it's 100% alcohol (it has to be, in order to dissolve shellac and be used as a fuel). You can obtain denatured alcohol at any hardware store (including your nearby "orange box" <-- click here for link to product) or any store that sells heaters and stoves.
I personally use denatured alcohol, and have been for over 20 years. With the introduction of the Magic Eraser product to the market several years ago, a perfect pair have now been formed in my shaft maintenance kit.
Apologies for the chemistry lesson, but I hope this is helpful,
-Sean
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Sean, Thanks for the clarification. In checking the bottle of what I'm using to clean my Predator shafts, it is 70% Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol.
I just got a response back from Predator on their recommendations for cleaning the wraps:
"WRAP CLEANING. For leather and Leather Luxe™ wraps, use water to barely dampen a towel, wipe the wrap, and dry it immediately. Use Isopropyl alcohol for Irish Linen wraps."
There is something to be said for finding out what your cue manufacturer's recommendations are for cleaning your shaft and wrap. If you use the wrong cleaning agents, you may inadvertently void your warranty due to improper maintenance.
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Protip: Electronics stores sell very high purity (99%+) isopropyl "rubbing" alcohol at a reasonable price. I wouldn't recommend using it on a scrape, though! >_<
I must admit, I wouldn't have guessed that it would be good for cleaning Irish Linen, but I may have to give it a try. Honestly, my hands end up getting kind of damp when I shoot for a while and I usually just wipe the wrap and my hands with a terry towel to help remove the moisture.
I must admit, I wouldn't have guessed that it would be good for cleaning Irish Linen, but I may have to give it a try. Honestly, my hands end up getting kind of damp when I shoot for a while and I usually just wipe the wrap and my hands with a terry towel to help remove the moisture.
(I know this is an old thread, but...) Is there any way to do the equivalent of pressing a linen wrap without a lathe (for those of us who are sometimes too cheap to give money to our local cue repair person)?
Bob:
How about a Linen Press Tool itself, but using your hand to turn the cue?
http://cuestik.com/store/product.asp?DEPARTMENT_ID=162&ITEM_ID=5913
Albeit, if we're comparing the cost of this tool to the cost of just giving the cue to your local cue repair person, the cost of the tool loses hands-down. At least for "onesy-twosie" repairs. But if you find yourself really liking the feel of freshly-pressed Irish Linen, perhaps the one-time cost of this tool might be worth the "I can have freshly-pressed Irish Linen anytime I want!" satisfaction?
Just a thought.
-Sean
Just did mine again today. I carry a wooden craft stick (like a popsicle stick, only smaller) in my case, just for this. Roll the wrap around, using gentle pressure. Good for touch ups. If the wrap is in worse condition, lightly sand with 2000, and then use a small amount of Faultlless heavy starch and turn the wrap with the slick backside of plastic sandpaper (model car stuff) wrapped around it. Try not to get the wrap too wet, or use too much pressure--especially on older wraps--to keep from loosening the wrap from the glue. Then I work on stubborn places with a smooth, chrome-plated, flat piece of steel that came from a set of nail clippers.
As part of this maintenance, I like to use Pledge on the rest of the butt.
So far, I haven't ruined a cue.
Everything came from Wal*Mart. *grin*
And, yes, I am OCD. It comes from being a math guy.
[Edit] Forgot to mention that the wrap was dirtier than usual. Used a small amount of 409 to clean it, and rapidly dried it by hand.
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