Don't forget glue, butt taper, moisture content, grain orientation/direction, finish and snake oil.jsaxman said:
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What affects the hit of a cue the most?
- Thread starter jsaxman
- Start date
Fatboy said:
yeah it is! i've tried different lengths and 1/2 inch is a bigger difference than i thought it would be
dave sutton
Banned
Fatboy said:yes thanks for reminding me, the snake oil between the tip and bumper is another big factor, big factor!!!!
I DONT USE SNAKE OIL. I HAVE MY OWN "SECRET RECIPE"...EWWWW
It always suprises me when people have new tips put on and I ask "what tip would you like" and they say, don't care or what ever is cheapest. No problem putting on Lepros, and elkmasters, but when players can't tell me what tip or what hardness or even feel they are looking for it BLOWS MY MIND. Great Post guys, to the cue makers, this is why we should all experiment with different A-joints, Feels vary. I'm currently experimenting with solid wood A-joints, and different configurations of this Never know what I'm going to get.
Bryan, I agree with you for the most part. Many times I'll ask if they want the same tip on or if they are looking for something different. I would say about 50-60% of the players we service have no idea what tip they have on anyway.
I'll add my two cents.
..TIP..
The tip can make or break a cue. The best cue will hit like crap if the tip sucks.
My thought have always been if you have a good consistent stroke use a harder tip. If your stroke lacks consistency shoot with a softer tip and you'll miss cue less.
If you told me this before I built your cue I'd send you a 19.75-20oz cue with a 12.75mm pro taper and triangle tip. Soft hit with bounce and heavy cue so the ball moves with little effort.
Try a triangle soaked in milk and pressed to be a Med.
..TIP..
The tip can make or break a cue. The best cue will hit like crap if the tip sucks.
My thought have always been if you have a good consistent stroke use a harder tip. If your stroke lacks consistency shoot with a softer tip and you'll miss cue less.
rcarson said:
If you told me this before I built your cue I'd send you a 19.75-20oz cue with a 12.75mm pro taper and triangle tip. Soft hit with bounce and heavy cue so the ball moves with little effort.
Try a triangle soaked in milk and pressed to be a Med.
jsaxman said:
Damn soooooooooo much to consider that effects the hit of a cue!!!
So many variables.
One could become obsessed with all of this!!!!
I'm beginning to understand why some cuebuilders are a little crazy for
getting into this subject in the first place!!!!
Most people do not realize how much there is to consider, and being obsessed is what anyone who builds cues must be to be successful. In my opinion a cue is just like a musical instrument and while the components used can and certainly will effect how a cue feels the most important thing is the assembly of the components.
The tolerances at the junction of each component and the technique used to join them will effect a cues hit more than anything else in my opinion. To achieve that special resonances that people look for every component must be assembled to just the right tightness. Unlike a musical instrument
a cue can not be tuned for the perfect pitch after it is built. The only exception too this is changing the Ferrule, the Tip, the Bumper, and by making small adjustments to the tightness of the weight bolt. When I am speaking about the weight bolt, most people would be surprised how much it effects the harmonics of a cues hit. I use a torque wrench to tighten my weight bolts if I use one, I prefer not use a weight whenever possible, however, this is not always practical. So by using a torque wrench, the weight bolt can be tightened to just the right amount that you need to, snug it down properly, and to achieve the perfect harmonic balance for that cue. When I tighten the weight bolt, I do it at a pool table so that I can make adjustments with the torque wrench so that the cue has just that sound I want it to make. Since learning this technique, I have been able to make adjustments to many cues and in almost all cases, I was able to effect the cues hit in significant manner.
Again the tightness of the cues components in my opinion will effect the cues hit and sound more than almost anything else. The cues tip, Ferrule, and bumper also certainly have an effect and along with the above are certainly where anyone should start if they want to change the hit and sound of their cue.
Just my thoughts
resonance
The "hit" of a cue is highly subjective.
What is one sweet hitting cue to me .....sucks to someone
else!
I like the hit to be firm....yet....not too firm.
I like to feel some resonance from the cue.
Craig,
Thank you for the insight on tightness of the weight bolt.
Never thought about it......just wanted it to be screwed
very tight.....so, it does not rattle.
The A-joint connection is very critical.
I like cues with as many parts threaded & epoxy/glued as possible.
I think it adds to a more solid built cue.
later,
sax
He we go STEELERS!....Here we go!
Can't wait for the big game...Hope Big Ben has a good game...Hope the defence plays like a number 1 Defence...
Hope the Warner to Fitzgerald express hits a train wreck!
Steelers 20 Cards 17
Steelers kick a 53 yard field goal as time expires!!!
The "hit" of a cue is highly subjective.
What is one sweet hitting cue to me .....sucks to someone
else!
I like the hit to be firm....yet....not too firm.
I like to feel some resonance from the cue.
Craig,
Thank you for the insight on tightness of the weight bolt.
Never thought about it......just wanted it to be screwed
very tight.....so, it does not rattle.
The A-joint connection is very critical.
I like cues with as many parts threaded & epoxy/glued as possible.
I think it adds to a more solid built cue.
later,
sax
He we go STEELERS!....Here we go!
Can't wait for the big game...Hope Big Ben has a good game...Hope the defence plays like a number 1 Defence...
Hope the Warner to Fitzgerald express hits a train wreck!
Steelers 20 Cards 17
Steelers kick a 53 yard field goal as time expires!!!
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The A-joint connection is very critical.
I like cues with as many parts threaded & epoxy/glued as possible.
I think it adds to a more solid built cue.
A fullsplice cue has no threaded A-joint.
Yet, they hit great.
I like cues with as many parts threaded & epoxy/glued as possible.
I think it adds to a more solid built cue.
A fullsplice cue has no threaded A-joint.
Yet, they hit great.
jsaxman said:
The A-joint connection is very critical.
I like cues with as many parts threaded & epoxy/glued as possible.
I think it adds to a more solid built cue.
The A-joint certainly is critical when assembling a cue, the tolerance of each component must be just right so that as the epoxy drys and expands the tenon will seat properly in the cavity. If this step is not taken into consideration there will be stress at the A-joint, which will cause future movement or even cracks to develop. This is why many older cues have a wobble where the handle meets the forearm, if the truth be known most of these cues were most likely perfect in the beginning.
In my opinion glued and screwed components during assemble of a cue is the best way to go long term, this way you have three separate ways holding those parts in place, however, many today consider this overkill. It days past it was necessary to do this, because the adhesives were not as strong and because they would break down over time, so a permanent bonding of materials was not possible. Today however, the adhesives are not what bonds the materials together alone. Today the adhesives dissolve the surface of the materials being bonded and they allow the surfaces to bond to each other directly on a elemental basis. Super Glue is s good example of the, it has a low PH level (Like Acids) which dissolve the surface and allow the surfaces of the materials bond to one another. In the old days adhesives themselves were all that held the materials together and most adhesives were water / animal based so they totally broke down in adverse conditions. Temperature change which causes expansion and contraction was the main culprit that caused these problems.
Hope this helps.
This is a GREAT THREAD.
manwon said:
The sky is blue
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Craig, when did Bob say hide glue was good for plastic, metal and heavily dyed veneers?