What Cue Maker & Why Plus Construction

CueComponents

CueComponents

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey Guys....

A few weeks ago, I received some interesting photo's of a cue and thought I'd share them with you to spark some discussion and debate. You'll view 5 various photo's of the cue itself and as a bonus, I thought I'd also post 3 x-ray views as well. I hope you find this interesting and look forward to all the different views, opinions and thoughts of who the maker was and the construction shown by the xrays.

Please let us not only know what you think but why as well.

















 
Is that bumper held on with a screw. If so that does not seem like Viking. Possibly a Palmer. Something else to consider is could it be a cue made with Viking parts by someone else. I believe it was in the 60's and 70's that Viking sold cue parts to many other cuemakers. How many points does the cue have? If it is three instead of four I definitely vote Viking. The ferrules have screws in them like early Vikings did. If the ferrules won't unthread that is a sign of a Viking. If they remove and the thread is 1/4" it could be a Paradise. Everything except the bumper says Viking to me. So I think it is minimum built with Viking parts.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
My first guess would be a Doc Fry



(Sorry After posting I realized that this was in ask the cuemakers so I apologize for my hasty post)
 
What cue maker

The 2 ferrules are not the same, but both have the same strange construction. Are there voids or inserts at the tip ends of the shafts? That seems to be a more modern though, about reducing tip weight, for less deflection...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
The 2 ferrules are not the same, but both have the same strange construction. Are there voids or inserts at the tip ends of the shafts? That seems to be a more modern though, about reducing tip weight, for less deflection...JER
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Jer, the white stuff you see is metal. The ferrules look like they are bolted down to a 5/16 18 screw. Old school style they even used on ivory ferrules back then.
The weight bolt at the bottom has a way overly drilled out hole.
It looks like a Rich to me .
 
JoeyInCali said:
Jer, the white stuff you see is metal. The ferrules look like they are bolted down to a 5/16 18 screw. Old school style they even used on ivory ferrules back then.
The weight bolt at the bottom has a way overly drilled out hole.
It looks like a Rich to me .
Click to expand...
That is what makes me think it is a Viking or a Rich...
 
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JoeyInCali said:
Jer, the white stuff you see is metal. The ferrules look like they are bolted down to a 5/16 18 screw. Old school style they even used on ivory ferrules back then.
The weight bolt at the bottom has a way overly drilled out hole.
It looks like a Rich to me .
Click to expand...

Vicking has a screwed in ferrule, but that thing is really long...JER
 
It sure has signs of being a Viking but could easily be a Paradise or Rich. Another guess, it could be an MF because of deep drilling but they used a screw on bumper and a recessed butt screw. Oh, BTW I'm not a cuemaker.

Rod
 
CueComponents said:
Hey Guys....

A few weeks ago, I received some interesting photo's of a cue and thought I'd share them with you to spark some discussion and debate. You'll view 5 various photo's of the cue itself and as a bonus, I thought I'd also post 3 x-ray views as well. I hope you find this interesting and look forward to all the different views, opinions and thoughts of who the maker was and the construction shown by the xrays.

Please let us not only know what you think but why as well.

















Click to expand...

From the overall look I would say it is a Palmer. Also Palmer did on some cues use a threaded metal pin to hold on the ferrule. They were not glued on and you could thread off the ferrule and replace it with one that had say a new tip on.

Also, where do you get your xray's done? I used to have a vet friend who could do it for me but he isn't around anymore.
 
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???????????

My guess would be Paradise with forearm by another maker, the key word here is guess.
Pinocchio
 
Ferrules are the same but with different tips. A 5/32" x 1.5" metal screw is noted as attaching method for the ferrule. Ferrule has glue relief hole.

Brass shaft insert is .5" x 1.5" with a slightly deeper bore on the lower shaft.

Forearm joint screw is 5/16" x 18tpi x 2.5" long. Stainless Joint on 5/8" tenon. * Construction lends to a higher risk of fracture just below the decorative ring as the deco ring face contact to the forearm is right over the tip of the joint screw. *nice veneer work

A-joint (need a closer view to determine the section faces) can possibly be tenon from both ends. Uses a 4" long connecting bolt with a 3/8" overbore (trapped air or very low density shows up black or dark shade of grey) in the handle section.

Buttsleeve over .75" x 2.5" long tenon from handle. Weight bolt hole is 4.5" deep with a 3/8"x 16tpi x 2" long (threaded portion) flat head wieght bolt (not aluminium) which is drilled and tapped for the rubber bumper screw. *Don't remove the weight bolt and accidentally bump the butt cap.
 
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is it the pitcher or my screen but the butt sleeve looks uneven. the large white plastic rings seem to be larger in diameter than the smaller darker rings. look near the linen.
 
santorno said:
is it the pitcher or my screen but the butt sleeve looks uneven. the large white plastic rings seem to be larger in diameter than the smaller darker rings. look near the linen.
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Good eye. This here is evidence that phenolics do shrink or swell. This is one reason why years of experience in cuemaking is important. New materials or processing-of continually happen and a good craftsman keeps his finger on new developments in the materials and construction techniques that'll ultimately impact the durability and longevity of his product.

This aspect of cuemaking is the hard to teach part and is filed under "Continuing Education".
 
What cue maker

Sorry Bandido, that stuff is thermoplastic and not phenolic. So scrap that theory that it proves phenolics swell. Probably either reacted to solvents in the finish or was sanded or polished to hard and got hot. Thermoplastics especially polyester based stuff will act strangely with solvents and heat.
 
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