What cue makers build their own shafts (not using cheap blanks).

I am very curious to know what cue makers strictly only build their own shafts of the highest quality wood, and never use cheaply made blanks?

I would like to order a good high quality shaft someday (when I get the money), and would just like to know of some cue makers that actually build their own shafts.

Please add prices next to the cue makers that you list (if you also know around the cost that the cue makers charge to build a shaft, and how much extra for custom ring work to match a butt).

I know of all of the famous cue makers (like the top 10, or more in the country), so I am more interested in the less known cue makers that do not charge quite as much for their good quality work.

Thanks.
 
I am very curious to know what cue makers strictly only build their own shafts of the highest quality wood, and never use cheaply made blanks?

I would like to order a good high quality shaft someday (when I get the money), and would just like to know of some cue makers that actually build their own shafts.

Please add prices next to the cue makers that you list (if you also know around the cost that the cue makers charge to build a shaft, and how much extra for custom ring work to match a butt).

I know of all of the famous cue makers (like the top 10, or more in the country), so I am more interested in the less known cue makers that do not charge quite as much for their good quality work.

Thanks.

Do you really think that any cuemakers would publicly state that they use inferior or lower quality woods. Every time a cuemaker sends a cue out it has his name and reputation on it, whether he marked it or not.
It sounds like you want to buy top quality work, but don't want to pay for the name on it. Top quality work is worth the same regardless who made it. Most of the Cuemakers can build you a good shaft, and all deserve to be paid for it.
 
thank you

Do you really think that any cuemakers would publicly state that they use inferior or lower quality woods. Every time a cuemaker sends a cue out it has his name and reputation on it, whether he marked it or not.
It sounds like you want to buy top quality work, but don't want to pay for the name on it. Top quality work is worth the same regardless who made it. Most of the Cuemakers can build you a good shaft, and all deserve to be paid for it.

perfectly said:thumbup2:
 
Bob Danielson. Try to search the forums by "SS360", for instance, to read the feedback
 
I know that no cue maker would publicly state that they are using wood that is of lower quality, so that is the reason why I am asking for info on here. I know that some cue makers use blanks (that are of low quality), but I do not know of the cue makers out there that do use blanks, and the ones that do not. I am just looking for info on cue makers that actually build their own shafts (and not just use a cheap blank, put a joint on it, and then turn it down to the customers desired size). If I were to pay $150 for a custom made shaft, than I would want that shaft to be of high quality wood (and not made from a cheap blank that came from China). I do not want anyone to ruin any ones reputation by naming out the cue makers that do use cheap blanks. I am only looking for info about cue makers that actually build their own shafts, and use the highest quality wood to do it (like Joss shafts for example are probably made from some of the highest quality wood). Thanks.

Do you really think that any cuemakers would publicly state that they use inferior or lower quality woods. Every time a cuemaker sends a cue out it has his name and reputation on it, whether he marked it or not.
It sounds like you want to buy top quality work, but don't want to pay for the name on it. Top quality work is worth the same regardless who made it. Most of the Cuemakers can build you a good shaft, and all deserve to be paid for it.
 
Almost every cuemaker builds their own shafts. And no doubt they all want to buy the best possible, straightest, and tightest grain raw material for the lowest price they can.

Most cuemakers would also be able to match a new shaft to whatever cue you have. The things to consider would be whether you will like the way their taper plays, how good of work they do (their rep), and how well they can match your joint rings. And then price of course (your budget). Fyi, even "lesser name" cuemakers are typically now charging $125-$175ish for a replacement shaft.

I would suggest after you've gotten some names together, calling some of them up to discuss. Listings can be found here: http://www.cuemakers.org/ and http://www.classifiedbilliards.com/mybb/forumdisplay.php?fid=269

Here's a suggestion of a guy that does great work that's also right here on this forum......Ryan aka 'ratcues': \\http://forums.azbilliards.com/member.php?u=8783
 
Okay, maybe my question was silly. I just remember a local cue maker where I am from that always ordered blanks to make his shafts. I was told that his blanks were from Players (so I guess they are from China). Sorry if my question was stupid. So most cue makers build their own shafts, and that is something that I should not have to worry about if ordering from an unknown cue maker? I am only interested to know of some cue makers that build there own shafts, and use some of the highest quality wood to do it. I know of all of the well known cue makers out there, so I am just interested in the local cue makers that are not very well known yet for their work. I just thought that this would be an interesting question to ask. I am not trying to get any cue makers out there disrespected in any way. I was just very interested to learn of some cue makers that build some high quality shafts (that are not built from blanks). I am very sorry if I was wrong in thinking that some cue makers use low quality blanks to make their shafts. Thanks.

Most of us build our own shafts.
 
Ever played with a Players cue? The shafts aren't bad. I wouldn't necessarily be put off by a cue maker using blanks from them unless he was presenting them as AAA grade top of the heap most precious maple, which they are not.

In general I haven't seen any cue maker using crap shaft wood. That is left to the truly low end mass produced cues....even "lower" than players.

What the cue maker does with it is more important I think. Is it properly seasoned? What taper does he use?

You will often find that you will prefer a taper from a certain maker over others.

You will find arguments about what constitutes good woon even among cue makers. I don't think any of them will argue against high growth ring count, high density, straight grain, well aged maple. But you will find arguments about lots of other things like bowling alley wood, figured wood in shafts, and other things.

In the end, the question as posed is loaded with controversy. As for your local makers, they probably have a variety of sources and qualities of wood available or on-hand. I would talk to them directly about it.

Addressing it this way, here, is really loaded and borders on insulting makers.

As for "cheap" stuff. I have shafts that I have saved from old "cheap" cues because they turned out to be amazingly great wood. I save them to use at some point, maybe get them matched up to some cues that need a shaft. This would certainly be unusual to find today as such grades of maple are getting to be in much shorter supply.


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i'm pretty sure Jim Pierce makes his own. i've seen some of his bowling alley shaft wood get turned down from the alley planks to shafts
 
very unusual question

i would like to think if you know the difference between cheap wood and quaility wood, then you really do not need for anyone to tell you where to buy your shaft. go to any local billiard trade show and there will be dealers selling cues and shafts. just, go pick out a quality shaft. simple
or find a builder in your area, go to his shop pick out a piece of quality wood and have him build you a shaft with matching rings.
and i agree with chris, all the builders i know turn their own wood
 
Custom cuemakers buy round dowels to turn down into shafts. Unless they spend top dollar by the hundred they have to go through the dowels and choose which are nice enough to use on their high dollar cues. The rest are used for break cues, sneakys, and to core their cues. You will have a hard time getting top quality shafts from a maker without buying the entire cue. You will definitely pay for it if you get a really great shaft. Ringwork is hard to match and that costs extra.

Some top cuemakers use really great shaftwood for their sneakys as well as their high dollar cues. That is a big part of the reason you might pay $400-$600 for a sneaky. The constuction is just as good as a veneered and inlaid cue. It plays the same way. The hit is just as good. The feedback is similar. It's just that the hours to inlay etc don't go into it.

If you have a production cue and want a superior shaft you should find a cuemaker whose taper you love. Call the cuemaker and discuss whether he can and will make you a top quality shaft for it. Expect it to be $200 or more. Personally, I would consider getting a cue from the guy. The entire cue. Then you can specify weight, length, balance point etc. I want shafts that weigh close to 4 oz and have many annular growth rings, little grain run out, and the ferrule and tip of my choice. To me, the shaft is the most important element of how the cue plays. Next is the joint. I like all the big pins but my preference is the radial pin. 3/8 X 10 is fine with me as well.

I know there are many cuemakers who could satisfy your needs and requirements. I'll just name one...Paul Dayton. My best shaftwood came from Paul, and I like his taper as well as any I have felt. YMMV...Tom
 
I could be wrong--often I am--but is the question meant to be:
Which cuemakers use high, medium, low quality wood in their shafts?

Not that I can answer this, or expect anyone to answer this. As was said earlier, no cue maker will say, "I use poor quality shaft wood". I doubt any do, at least not those who stay in business.

KP
 
Players shafts are turned and dried in several stages that takes a year or two to finish and treated with wood stabilizers. I would rather a cue maker used a players than a block of wood that is not turned and dried in stages or treated with stabilizers.

I have a players cue that I break with that's 8 years old and still very straight. A players replacement shaft is only $42 at Ozone. Can't beat that.
 
Tad Kohara... without a doubt. Arguably the best shafts ever made.

I heard Tad got tons of shaft wood 50 years ago from Martin, a billiard cuemaker in Los Angeles.

That along with his talent could explain it.
 
I am very curious to know what cue makers strictly only build their own shafts of the highest quality wood, and never use cheaply made blanks?

I would like to order a good high quality shaft someday (when I get the money), and would just like to know of some cue makers that actually build their own shafts.

Please add prices next to the cue makers that you list (if you also know around the cost that the cue makers charge to build a shaft, and how much extra for custom ring work to match a butt).

I know of all of the famous cue makers (like the top 10, or more in the country), so I am more interested in the less known cue makers that do not charge quite as much for their good quality work.

Thanks.

Saying a cue maker should cut their own shafts from full stock is like saying a carpenter should cut their own 2X4's from logs , yet they're readily available at Home Depot.

It's a matter of finding a decent supplier. One cue maker I know was buying blanks from Samsara - I checked them out and they are perfectly fine. Reasons to buy from someone include saving time, keeping the shop clean, maximizing storage and work space, more efficient acclimatization, less waste and overall production efficiency.

It's not efficient for highly skilled machinist to be sawing and rough shaping wood.
 
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My experience with many many cues is that David Jacoby makes
very good shafts. A lot of others (Richard Black,Dennis Searing and
Gina) are very good also, but, no better then Jacoby's.
MHO
 
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