What do you think ?


Man I love the equipment the gentleman was using, but I certainly don't have a set up like it. However, I do not like the wet sanding of the final product, however, I could not tell what the liquid was.

I would be afraid that if the wood at the edge of ferrule became moist it would swell later and transition from the ferrule to the wood could be uneven / felt.

JIMO
 
Joey,

I think this guy knows what he is doing except for safety awareness. I would loose the long sleeves and would never approach my chuck from over the top except for rare filing situations and the hair on my neck would be up while doing it. This is called "Heightened Level of Awareness" and is a situation whereby professionals understand that they are taking a risk that requires 100% concentration and are 100% confident in the act. Like a roofer walking up to the edge of the roof or a commercial diver getting within 7 feet from a glowing fuel rod bundle in a nuclear vessel. Putting on a ferrule is a essential but a very common job and it is not something that should require much risk as there are safer ways to approach the job.

These things I have pointed out are fundamental safe practice errors. When you do something concerning safety that is fundamentally wrong and it becomes routine, you become complacent with that act and one slip in concentration will put you in the hospital and could retire you forever. Approaching the ferrule from the bed side is the way to go for cue repair IMHO.

I do not prefer capped ferrules but don't knock anyone who does it because it is a sound procedure. Many top players that I have made cues for have specifically requested non capped and I agree with that feature element. When building new shafts, I prefer to put my ferrules on when my shaft is at .950 at the joint and let my tapering saw machine do all of the sizing. This way my ferrule sanding is done between centers after the wood grain raise from final sealing. Much safer and less man hours.

Rick Geschrey
 
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Joey,
O.

I do not prefer capped ferrules but don't knock anyone who does it because it is a sound procedure. Many top players that I have made cues for have specifically requested non capped and I agree with that feature element. When building new shafts, I prefer to put my ferrules on when my shaft is at .950 at the joint and let my saw machine do all of the sizing. This way my ferrule sanding is done between centers after the wood grain raise from final sealing. Much safer and less man hours.

Rick Geschrey

It looks like a repair job to me . He wet sanded the ferrule so it must have been a replacement.
I wouldn't install ferrules at .950 joint b/c the tip end would still be at .600-.650 .
I install mine at .530 end after I cut the tenon a little oversized and let it sit a while.
 
It looks like a repair job to me . He wet sanded the ferrule so it must have been a replacement.
I wouldn't install ferrules at .950 joint b/c the tip end would still be at .600-.650 .
I install mine at .530 end after I cut the tenon a little oversized and let it sit a while.

Everyone has their own bend to the brim.
 
I've watched everything that guy has posted.

That is a KICK ASS machine,no doubts there.

He took the time to show us the tenon threading,but why not show himself fabricating the ferrule?

Anyone notice how bad the glue relief hole was off center? I'll bet it was pre-fab,because there is only one way to mess that hole up that badly,and that is to drill it on the capped end with a 1/16 drill bit and not center-drill it. Don't ask how I know,LOL.

I haven't figured out why he used the upside-down cutter and rough sized the ferrule backwards yet,but not a bad idea really. I've tried it same way he shows,and man does it leave a rough surface,even on Juma and using a BR cutter.

I agree that the liquid may swell the wood out and cause more work as a result. Not a bad way to go as far as final sizing the ferrule,rather than take a chance of overcutting,so maybe he was "sneaking up" on the size that way. I picture him letting it dry anyway,because surely he isn't going to attach,size,and shape the tip while the glue is still wet.

I've also tried the backwards cut technique he uses in another video to trim the tip. Never again.

His method of centering and gluing the tip on is different,and unique.

Lots of ways to skin a cat,and he is skilled. Tommy D.
 
I've watched everything that guy has posted.

That is a KICK ASS machine,no doubts there.

He took the time to show us the tenon threading,but why not show himself fabricating the ferrule?

Anyone notice how bad the glue relief hole was off center? I'll bet it was pre-fab,because there is only one way to mess that hole up that badly,and that is to drill it on the capped end with a 1/16 drill bit and not center-drill it. Don't ask how I know,LOL.

I haven't figured out why he used the upside-down cutter and rough sized the ferrule backwards yet,but not a bad idea really. I've tried it same way he shows,and man does it leave a rough surface,even on Juma and using a BR cutter.

I agree that the liquid may swell the wood out and cause more work as a result. Not a bad way to go as far as final sizing the ferrule,rather than take a chance of overcutting,so maybe he was "sneaking up" on the size that way. I picture him letting it dry anyway,because surely he isn't going to attach,size,and shape the tip while the glue is still wet.

I've also tried the backwards cut technique he uses in another video to trim the tip. Never again.

His method of centering and gluing the tip on is different,and unique.

Lots of ways to skin a cat,and he is skilled. Tommy D.

The hole looked a lot worse with foam.
But, the ferrule looked like it spun ok before he cut it.
 
It is rare to see someone using their bits upside down on center like that. I do not like the shoulder having no glue bond where the ferrule meets the shaft. The only holding power from the glue is on the threads. But the positive is he will never get a glue line.
 
It is rare to see someone using their bits upside down on center like that. I do not like the shoulder having no glue bond where the ferrule meets the shaft. The only holding power from the glue is on the threads. But the positive is he will never get a glue line.

He doesn't have a right cutting bit . :grin:
High-rake insert does the job for me.
 
It is rare to see someone using their bits upside down on center like that. I do not like the shoulder having no glue bond where the ferrule meets the shaft. The only holding power from the glue is on the threads. But the positive is he will never get a glue line.

I'd rather have the glue line.
 
I like the cutter used for threading. Wonder if it's carbide? Doesn't look like.
Use the right glue and you'll never have a glue line as long as proper prep is performed. I like to drench both the tenon and the inside of the ferrule with glue when I install them. I probably use enough glue for 3 1/2 ferrules.
 
Wet sanding ferrule for less dust ? Feeler Gauge for cutting ferrule?:scratchhead::scratchhead::scratchhead:
 
Not sure of the lathe type, but looks like he's done some nice mods to his with the DRO on the cross-slide and tailstock- not to mention the tachometer and variable speed control.
I doubt he works like that all the time; it looks like he just did it because of camera placement. He needs one of those "safety guards removed for illustrative purposes only" type disclaimers!
 
Pressure to unscrew?

Just wondering?...
Is it bad practice to reverse cut ( chuck Rotation )
.. Putting pressure to unscrew the
ferrule/weaken the glue bond? Even though it's dry?
 
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Joey,

I think this guy knows what he is doing except for safety awareness. I would loose the long sleeves and would never approach my chuck from over the top except for rare filing situations and the hair on my neck would be up while doing it. This is called "Heightened Level of Awareness" and is a situation whereby professionals understand that they are taking a risk that requires 100% concentration and are 100% confident in the act. Like a roofer walking up to the edge of the roof or a commercial diver getting within 7 feet from a glowing fuel rod bundle in a nuclear vessel. Putting on a ferrule is a essential but a very common job and it is not something that should require much risk as there are safer ways to approach the job.

These things I have pointed out are fundamental safe practice errors. When you do something concerning safety that is fundamentally wrong and it becomes routine, you become complacent with that act and one slip in concentration will put you in the hospital and could retire you forever. Approaching the ferrule from the bed side is the way to go for cue repair IMHO.

Rick Geschrey

Ditto! This guy is looking to get his arm torn off!
 
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