>> What ever happened to brass joints?? <<

macneilb

macneilb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just wondering why brass joints on cues have seemed to fall off completely in popularity of modern cues in replacement for steel joints, especially 5/16x14 cues. Is it a playability issue? Does stainless steel play better? Or the fact that brass tarnishes over time? Just curious what everyones .02 is :rolleyes:

Cheers :)
 
I believe stainless steel is stronger, harder, and most importantly, lighter.
 
macneilb said:
Just wondering why brass joints on cues have seemed to fall off completely in popularity of modern cues in replacement for steel joints, especially 5/16x14 cues. Is it a playability issue? Does stainless steel play better? Or the fact that brass tarnishes over time? Just curious what everyones .02 is :rolleyes:

Cheers :)
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Brass discolors and oxidizes making a patina many don't prefer for cues, plus its denser than stainless steel, bringing along a weight issue.
 
I think there are a few reasons. I remember my first cue had a brass to brass joint. Been so long since I shot with it, makes me wonder if it really felt different or if my memory is playing tricks on me.
 
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jersey red told me he loved them
absolutely the best,he said

bob runde makes them for me
his are beautiful

plenty of the old brunswicks are still nice

i like the beauties bob makes me

can not swear i play good enough to tell the difference
but i like em anyway
 
macneilb said:
Just wondering why brass joints on cues have seemed to fall off completely in popularity of modern cues in replacement for steel joints, especially 5/16x14 cues. Is it a playability issue? Does stainless steel play better? Or the fact that brass tarnishes over time? Just curious what everyones .02 is :rolleyes:

Cheers :)
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They are alive and well in Colorado!

Oh sorry I thought you typed grass.:o
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a brass joint. Except, it does tarnish if it doesn't have a finish over it. And if it has a finish over it, it doesn't necessarily have that glass-smooth brilliance that people want. But it is a bit softer than stainless steel, has a great look (even if you have to break out the Brasso), and brings a nostalgia to your cue.
 

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WildWing said:
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a brass joint. Except, it does tarnish if it doesn't have a finish over it. And if it has a finish over it, it doesn't necessarily have that glass-smooth brilliance that people want. But it is a bit softer than stainless steel, has a great look (even if you have to break out the Brasso), and brings a nostalgia to your cue.
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I don't mind cleaning the brass joints up now and then, you really only have to wipe them with some of todays products. Nice pics, it almost looks like a hair line crack on the shaft just above the ferrule.
 
Cuebuddy said:
Nice pics, it almost looks like a hair line crack on the shaft just above the ferrule.
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Could be, although under a magnifying glass, it looks like it could be chalk embedded in a grainline. But, good observation, and this particular shaft is the original one, no doubt turned by Gene Balner in the late 60s, when the cue was made, so that makes it about 45 years old. Could be a hairline crack by then.
 
Brass joints went away a long time ago...along with Brass Knucks.

We've replaced them with something else...Stainless Steel and Cold Steel. :)

I actually like the looks of brass joints, but have never owned a cue with one. I had opportunities to have picked up one of the old Hoppe cues with brass joints in the past, but I always let them pass me by. Now they are RARE. I wish I would have grabbed some when I had the chance.

A real find would be an old Rambo. I'm still looking when I go to swap meets, flea markets, estate sales, rubbish sales, etc. There are still a few to be found out there somewhere.
 
WildWing said:
Could be, although under a magnifying glass, it looks like it could be chalk embedded in a grainline. But, good observation, and this particular shaft is the original one, no doubt turned by Gene Balner in the late 60s, when the cue was made, so that makes it about 45 years old. Could be a hairline crack by then.
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Sometimes you can hear buzz if you drop the shaft horizontally on to a pool table from a few inches. It will not always work. I have a few Palmers but not old enough to be made by Balner.
 
Cuebuddy said:
Sometimes you can hear buzz if you drop the shaft horizontally on to a pool table from a few inches. It will not always work. I have a few Palmers but not old enough to be made by Balner.
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Yep, I know exactly what you mean. However, that buzz is almost always a loose ferrule or a loose joint collar ring, rather than a crack in the wood. In the old days, the Balners (and son Pete) used carpenters wood glue and white (elmers) glue for shaft work, rather than the strong expoxies of today.
 
Before I started playing again, and after a good 20 years.. I remember the brass pins bending to easily and everyone crying about them. My guess would be that stainless holds up better to sloppy stowing of the cue, as well as bumps they get in transport and in play.
Of course it was easier to fix a warped cue since that was a weak point ... get a good buzz, put them over your knee, and apply pressure until it looked good. Or drink enough it just looked straight anyway.
I opted for the latter after I broke a couple.
 
For me, piloted solid brass joints play too soft and they are heavier as others have said. I had a Titlist conversion's joint replaced recently because the solid ivory joint cracked in half; I chose to have a brass sleeve installed it it's place to regain some of the original old school look but maintain the hit I like. After filling the joint w/maple and putting on the brass sleeve (same radial pin) it added like .6oz to the weight of the cue. (but it plays great!)




Dave
 
12squared said:
For me, piloted solid brass joints play too soft and they are heavier as others have said. I had a Titlist conversion's joint replaced recently because the solid ivory joint cracked in half; I chose to have a brass sleeve installed it it's place to regain some of the original old school look but maintain the hit I like. After filling the joint w/maple and putting on the brass sleeve (same radial pin) it added like .6oz to the weight of the cue. (but it plays great!)

woodworth-brass005_zpsa3a61fe6.jpg
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Dave
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It looks great on your cue.
 
WildWing said:
Could be, although under a magnifying glass, it looks like it could be chalk embedded in a grainline. But, good observation, and this particular shaft is the original one, no doubt turned by Gene Balner in the late 60s, when the cue was made, so that makes it about 45 years old. Could be a hairline crack by then.
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Try cleaning the area with Magic Eraser. It works great at cleaning out those tiny knooks and crannys. I use alcohol instead of water to reduce the potential of wood swell - and not much alcohol at that. Anyway, point is, this stuff cleans great, and you should be able to tell if it's a crack or not once you have done this.

Fatz
 
Pre-Flag Master said:
Try cleaning the area with Magic Eraser. It works great at cleaning out those tiny knooks and crannys. I use alcohol instead of water to reduce the potential of wood swell - and not much alcohol at that. Anyway, point is, this stuff cleans great, and you should be able to tell if it's a crack or not once you have done this.

Fatz
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Yep, good suggestion, though I've found that Klasse car polish works very well on brass. I think it's because it not only cleans and polishes, but leaves a little bit of finish and protection on it.
 
Brass weight

kvinbrwr said:
Brass discolors and oxidizes making a patina many don't prefer for cues, plus its denser than stainless steel, bringing along a weight issue.
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I believe brass is about ten percent heavier than stainless.

I've owned a number of cues with brass joints and actually like the softer hit...a bit more like wood to wood than stainless.

My current shooter is a 40+ year old with brass joint.
 
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