What glue to use for a pin?

DCS_SF

DCS_SF

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hey everyone, my pin came unscrewed out of the butt on one of my cues and I was looking for specific brand name suggestions on what to use to reattach. I have some rubber cement as well as standard loc-tite blue (which I tried and failed) . I have heard that loc-tite gel is good, but before I make a trip to the hardware store, or possibly mess things up I wanted to get some input here.
 
Last edited:
FuManchu said:
If the pin just "came out" then its time for a new cue. Epoxy though
Click to expand...

Haha, no it unscrewed and is currently in the shaft instead of the butt. It didn't just fall out.

First post edited to make that more clear.
 
Last edited:
DCS_SF said:
Hey everyone, my pin came unscrewed out of the butt on one of my cues and I was looking for specific brand name suggestions on what to use to reattach. I have some rubber cement as well as standard loc-tite blue (which I tried and failed) . I have heard that loc-tite gel is good, but before I make a trip to the hardware store, or possibly mess things up I wanted to get some input here.
Click to expand...

No offense, but the fact that you are asking indicates you are probably much better off taking your cue to a qualified repair guy. Even more unnerving is the idea that you would even consider the two products you mentioned. Cue makers would be typically using an epoxy to secure the pin. (As well as a lathe and various methods to insure the straightness of the pin).

If you insist on doing this yourself, maybe you would get more informed responses in the cuemakers forum. Just a suggestion. Best of luck,

KMRUNOUT
 
KMRUNOUT said:
No offense, but the fact that you are asking indicates you are probably much better off taking your cue to a qualified repair guy. Even more unnerving is the idea that you would even consider the two products you mentioned. Cue makers would be typically using an epoxy to secure the pin. (As well as a lathe and various methods to insure the straightness of the pin).

If you insist on doing this yourself, maybe you would get more informed responses in the cuemakers forum. Just a suggestion. Best of luck,

KMRUNOUT
Click to expand...

No I didn't use the rubber cement because I figured that was a horrible option. I was told loctite gel would work fine by someone who works on cues. I did try a tiny bit of regular loc tite when it came out before (and that was only because I knew it was easy to clean off if it failed). It worked for about two days. The pin is threaded on both ends, and is perfectly straight when screwed in to either the shaft or the butt so I am not clear on why I would need a lathe to reset it.

Both sides are very tight, but the shaft has more thread to grab and seems to pull out the other threads when unscrewed.

I'll try in the cuemakers forum if nobody here has anything specific to add.
 
I'd just use a bit of epoxy if it was mine,not much should be needed if it is threaded.
 
I would take it to a cue maker to repair if it were me. Being threaded the pin will probably end up being seated straight if you did it yourself (but do you really want to take that gamble?) but a cue maker or good repair person will ensure that it is seated straight and at the proper depth and it will be cheap, $25 or so. If you are just stuck on doing it yourself though I would definitely go to the ask the cue makers section for their advice on type of adhesive and any other suggestions they have. I forgot which adhesive they use but it is intended to let the pin be easily removable when heated, and no I don't think it is the same hot glue that your wife uses for making crafts...haha.
 
Yes take it to a cue maker, but if you insist on doing it yourself.

I have used high quality epoxy that drys slow, like 24 hours. I also clean the pin very well with acetone and don't use too much glue. Providing the threads in the butt are still in good shape it should thread back in.

After the first few turns threaded it in slowly and give the epoxy a chance to move through the threads, it also lets any trapped air escape. Remember thread the pin slowly, over hours not minutes. Too fast and the pressure of compacting the glue and air can split the wood on th butt. Monitor the area at the end of the butt and remove any glue that may press out.

It boils down to hydraulics.
 
Epoxy really just about any kind. The thinner epoxy works better but take longer dry. 10 min epoxy should work fine. Don't use the glues or cyno for pin installation cause it will more than likely rattle loose after short period of time

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 
KMRUNOUT said:
No offense, but the fact that you are asking indicates you are probably much better off taking your cue to a qualified repair guy. Even more unnerving is the idea that you would even consider the two products you mentioned. Cue makers would be typically using an epoxy to secure the pin. (As well as a lathe and various methods to insure the straightness of the pin).

If you insist on doing this yourself, maybe you would get more informed responses in the cuemakers forum. Just a suggestion. Best of luck,

KMRUNOUT
Click to expand...

Great answer and 100 percent correct.
 
Cuebuddy said:
Yes take it to a cue maker, but if you insist on doing it yourself.

I have used high quality epoxy that drys slow, like 24 hours. I also clean the pin very well with acetone and don't use too much glue. Providing the threads in the butt are still in good shape it should thread back in.

After the first few turns threaded it in slowly and give the epoxy a chance to move through the threads, it also lets any trapped air escape. Remember thread the pin slowly, over hours not minutes. Too fast and the pressure of compacting the glue and air can split the wood on th butt. Monitor the area at the end of the butt and remove any glue that may press out.

It boils down to hydraulics.
Click to expand...

Yup, if you're dead set on DIY, the above advice is golden.
 
Cuebuddy said:
Yes take it to a cue maker, but if you insist on doing it yourself.

I have used high quality epoxy that drys slow, like 24 hours. I also clean the pin very well with acetone and don't use too much glue. Providing the threads in the butt are still in good shape it should thread back in.

After the first few turns threaded it in slowly and give the epoxy a chance to move through the threads, it also lets any trapped air escape. Remember thread the pin slowly, over hours not minutes. Too fast and the pressure of compacting the glue and air can split the wood on th butt. Monitor the area at the end of the butt and remove any glue that may press out.

It boils down to hydraulics.
Click to expand...

I would echo this plus...drop a very small amount in the hole and let it settle to the bottom. Then lightly lube up the pin and slowly thread it in. Remove again clean up any glue that comes above where the pin protrudes out of the butt (the 12 year old in me is starting to giggle). Now slowly thread in and hand tighten until it bottoms out. Place cue vertical as possible with pin side up and don't touch it for 24 hours. Personally I wouldn't play with it for at least 72 hours or more.

Slow and steady.
 
Nick B said:
I would echo this plus...drop a very small amount in the hole and let it settle to the bottom. Then lightly lube up the pin and slowly thread it in. Remove again clean up any glue that comes above where the pin protrudes out of the butt (the 12 year old in me is starting to giggle). Now slowly thread in and hand tighten until it bottoms out. Place cue vertical as possible with pin side up and don't touch it for 24 hours. Personally I wouldn't play with it for at least 72 hours or more.

Slow and steady.
Click to expand...

Exactly. Don't put epoxy all over the pin and thread it in. You'll trap the air in there if you do it that way. Drop the epoxy into the butt, thread the pin in all the way, back the pin back out to distribute the epoxy, and thread the pin back in until seated. That's what I did when the pin on my break cue came loose (after cleaning the pin and the butt with a wire brush of course). Came out good as new. After years and years of custom golf club fitting and club repair, I was pretty confident though.
 
I opened this thread thinking I would learn how to glue a pin back into a butt...and I did. So thanks to the OP.

The reactions of Mike and others are understandable - why would you not take a short drive to pay an expert $25-35 for a simple fix that if you tried it yourself, you might screw up a $1,000 pool cue?

I used to live in an area where the only local cue repairman any of us knew of, worked at the local pool hall and consistently screwed up our cues. Often he couldn't even be counted on to successfully glue on a tip. It was because of him that I began to teach myself simple cue repairs. I don't know the situation of the OP, but it makes sense that he would at least ask his question here first, where he has access to a plethora of true cue repair experts. Worst case is he learns that he is short of skills and needs to take the cue in.

Another thing to consider: many of us remember beginner cuemakers ten years ago asking crazy questions and offering even crazier solutions to problems. We often insulted and made fun of them, yet they slogged on. Now some of them are much improved (we seldom, if ever, make fun of them :) and they are respected on the forum. I could give plenty of examples, but I would hate for them to take it as making fun of their beginnings as opposed to congratulating them for their current abilities.

Perhaps someday the OP will be a cue-maker and we can remind him of his 'rubber cement' thoughts.
 
The fact that the pin came out screwed into the shaft tells me it is likely bottomed out in the shaft, so it was either not set deep enough into the butt end, or the shaft was not threaded deep enough to begin with. Fix that first, then a good 2 part slow epoxy will solve your problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top