hello, all i am trying to buy a new jump cue, not a jump break, just a jump. what are your thoughts? whats popular these days? i hear the mezz air shooter is good.
what is the best non phenolic jump cue? any opinions
- Thread starter boston.mike
- Start date
thanks but i do not want a break cue only a jump butt. thanks for the post.
Look into the Jacoby Jumper or the Lucasi jump cue.
I use a Lucasi jumper and have no problem jumping the CB.
And have used a friends Jacoby jumper and it works just as good, if not better, than the lucasi.
dave
I use a Lucasi jumper and have no problem jumping the CB.
And have used a friends Jacoby jumper and it works just as good, if not better, than the lucasi.
dave
Stealth Jump Cue is the best!
If you're looking for strictly a jump cue, the Stealth Air-Time Jumper is it. The 3-piece cue is extremely light, can be used to jump balls at any distance, and comes with a leather tip. IMO, it is the easiest jump cue to use, out there.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
If you're looking for strictly a jump cue, the Stealth Air-Time Jumper is it. The 3-piece cue is extremely light, can be used to jump balls at any distance, and comes with a leather tip. IMO, it is the easiest jump cue to use, out there.
Scott Lee
www.poolknowledge.com
For $75 I'll sell you one of my shorty jump cues with the canvas resin tip. It can NOT be beat! Jumping a full ball from less than 1 inch is not a problem. If you MUST HAVE a leather tip, then you'll lose some performance but you can get it with a soaked & pressed Triangle that works extremely well. Of course for this price the cue will indeed come with a slight blem shaft that I set aside for these cues. But for a shorty jump cue thats fine...most players could care less about jump cue shaft cosmetics. I'll need to know the maximum length handle that will fit your case. A lot of people don't realize...but as long as I keep the cue light...the longer the handle...the easier the jump. PM if you need more info.
i have been hearing rumors, i know phenolic is not allowed in ipt but what about bca? oh and a ny pics of the shorty
Seems funny that they are sold as two completely different materials. The phenolic is more brittle and subject to crack and does not hold chalk as well. The canvas resin looks totally different, is as hard, will actually scuff up so much it resembles leather, and is virtually bulletproof. It is sold as cavas resin rod completely different from the phenolic options being sold. Look how well it will hold chalk...
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Varney Cues said:
I think it's simply a case of someone not knowing the details or just not putting them down.
"Phenolics" come in a variety of flavors, hardnesses, and compressive strengths. "Canvas phenolic resin" has been used forever in the electrical industry. It has about the same compressive strength as linen phenolic, which I believe is what most cuemakers are familar with.
Fred
boston.mike said:
The Airshooter has a phenolic tip.
The Stealth is one of your best choice, with the option of a leather tip.
www.BeadsandBilliards.com also makes a three piece jump cue with a leather tip, I saw Mike Massey used their jump cue before. It is built by Jessi Nester.
Also, I had a jump cue made by Joseph Picone of Florida many years ago, and it featured a leather tip. It was a very beautiful and well made jump cue. It had a butt section hollowed out which was then filled with urethane.
I also saw a jump cue made by David Tice of WA, which featured a leather tip on a very thin clear ferrule. The cue is a one piece, and cannot be taken apart to fit in a case.
Hope this helps.
Richard
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boston.mike said:
Just for S&G's, I took out my jump cues and tried them out side by side on my table at home, using the standard grip (not the dart grip) on the bed, not the rail. They included:
Gilbert w/phenolic tip,
original Bunjee w/leather dust impregnated tip,
Stealth w/leather tip,
Fury with phenolic Ferrule/Tip combo,
Jacoby with brass Ferrule and phenolic tip
My table isn't easy to jump on, as it only has 3/4" slate which I beefed up with a 3/4 inch back board. With good technique, I can jump about 6" away with the standard grip with a Gilbert w/LEATHER tip. But, good technique isn't always available.
With the cues above, I found that the Jacoby was the easiest overall to jump with and control. It has the necked down joing (a la Jumpin' Jesse James Cue). I find that if I put my fingers in there, it's all good.
The rest of them, no real problems, and they weren't far behind. The Jacoby just happened to work out better in my hands. If I put a phenolic tip on the Stealth, I assume this thing would be a frickin' monster at jumping.
As far as the dart grip, all of them worked pretty easily, and with good technique, all of them can go over a ball at about a ball's width for me.
And, as I've said previously, the cue that jumped the easiest by far for me is the X-Breaker.
Fred
O
onepocketchump
Guest
Varney Cues said:
The absolute truth of the matter is that phenolic, canvas resin, g-10, or any other tip used today will hold chalk just fine WITHOUT scuffing the tip up.
I have PROVEN to many people that an unscuffed tip will hold chalk and allow the cueball to be struck up to the maximum distance.
I don't bother to scuff up the tips on the jump cues anymore. Just apply chalk and go.
Now, to answer the poster's original question. The Stealth Air Jumper is a good jump cue that has a treated leather tip. It works the same as a super hard non-leather tip. Any jump cue will work with either a super thin layer of leather or a hardened tip.
Kevin, anytime you want to do the jump contest I will gladly put up my Bunjee Jumper and my Fury JB against your cues. I don't take "my cues can't be beat" comments lightly. I will bet that my two cues perform at least as well if not better than yours for for the same tasks. We can take ten shots and have two independent people try them out and report the results. I will bet $500 that the Bunjee and the Fury come out as good or better in the jump categories.
Please don't use this forum to try and sell your wares blatantly. The other cuemakers here don't it, the distributers and resellers don't do it. We participate in the discussions and try to be good netizenz. If you want to advertise your cues for sale then do it in the "For Sale" section.
Just my opinion.
John
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onepocketchump
Guest
You know, I have always been puzzled by the advertising logic of the phrase, "play with X or get beat by one".
How exactly will playing with X prevent me from getting beat by someone else who also uses X? One of the two has to lose.
Does it mean that by having X I at least have as much of a chance as someone else who has X. Does X make me a better player? If Efren uses X will I become Efren by using X?
Well, while you all are busy playing with X, I have already moved on to Y and Z.
John
How exactly will playing with X prevent me from getting beat by someone else who also uses X? One of the two has to lose.
Does it mean that by having X I at least have as much of a chance as someone else who has X. Does X make me a better player? If Efren uses X will I become Efren by using X?
Well, while you all are busy playing with X, I have already moved on to Y and Z.
John
lindycu
New member
Chilton Cue's makes a great Jump Cue system (The Flying Eagle)...it contains a jump cue shaft, with a special short shaft (yes, two tips, one on each end), along with the ability to attach to your butt, as well as an extension. The key to his jump cue system is that it allows you to use the same stroke for any type of jump (same stroke, same speed, etc.). The different cue setups give you various jump lengths, use one end for short jumps, one for longer, etc.
http://www.chiltoncue.com
http://www.chiltoncue.com