What is the best way to get contact cement off a leather wrap?

Rubber works good
Or just rub it with your fingers.
I wouldn't use contact cement remover because it may take color off the wrap
 
I wouldn't use wd40 anywhere near a cue, has a lot of nasty stuff in that mixture. If it gets on bare wood, it can do damage and can eff up your finishes. If you tape the wrap off well enough it shouldn't be an issue. Maybe rubbing alcohol, if you really need it, but I doubt it is necessary. I recently stuck some patches on my Mcdermott Mac case with contact cement, and the areas that I went slightly over came off easily with a swipe of my finger. It's meant to adhere to itself, but when left alone it doesn't cure like other adhesives.
 
On leather wraps where appropriate, neutral shoe polish works nicely.
 
galipeau said:
I wouldn't use wd40 anywhere near a cue, has a lot of nasty stuff in that mixture. If it gets on bare wood, it can do damage and can eff up your finishes. If you tape the wrap off well enough it shouldn't be an issue. Maybe rubbing alcohol, if you really need it, but I doubt it is necessary. I recently stuck some patches on my Mcdermott Mac case with contact cement, and the areas that I went slightly over came off easily with a swipe of my finger. It's meant to adhere to itself, but when left alone it doesn't cure like other adhesives.
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In NO WAY can a mist of wd40 on a paper towel rubbing lightly mess up ANY and I mean ANY of the auto clear finishes or water based finishes on a cue. Used it for many years, not one hick up, never made a scratch. False info.
 
danieldakota53 said:
In NO WAY can a mist of wd40 on a paper towel rubbing lightly mess up ANY and I mean ANY of the auto clear finishes or water based finishes on a cue. Used it for many years, not one hick up, never made a scratch. False info.
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I didn't feel strongly enough about it to post, but I am glad you did. I have used essence of wd40 a few times on a cue. There were no apparent problems. Once was because a way more experienced cuemaker suggested it for a specific problem and he was right it worked perfectly.

I have sort of got the feeling from some machinist type guys who are very familiar with various solvents and lubricants that wd40 was so anemic it was nearly a fraud. Maybe from their perspective it is more residential appropriate and not to be considered a serious industrial product.

All that being said, I agree with galipeau that contaminating bare wood with it sounds like a terrible idea.
 
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To clarify to DanielDakota53, I was referring to the chance of the wd40 getting on bare wood. I don't doubt that it would have minimal effect on a cue that's already coated in epoxy or auto clear, it's just that spraying wd40 in a shop that contains a bunch of expensive unsealed woods is a bad idea to me. I'm glad that it seems to work for you though, but I've been simply been taught otherwise.
 
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removig glue

mineral spirits is how you remove excess glue from a cue and the wrap. it does not affect the finish. it does not affect the wrap. give it a try you wont be dissapointed.
 
harris cue comp said:
mineral spirits is how you remove excess glue from a cue and the wrap. it does not affect the finish. it does not affect the wrap. give it a try you wont be dissapointed.
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It's also the natural thinner for contact cement.
I discovered it by accident.
Tried thinnig cc with thinner and denatured alcohol. It's a must try.
Funny as hell.
Thinned out cc with spirits and it worked like a charm.
I quit using foam brush too. There are much better brushes.
 
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