Phenolic to ?
Ivory to ?
Metal to ?
why?
Ivory to ?
Metal to ?
why?
What is your personal Cue Joint preference, and why
- Thread starter CocoboloCowboy
- Start date
Big pin and flat face is all that matters to me. I personally like the radial pin. The joint I like the least is the quick release. I spent $400 to get rid of it on one of my best cues!
I have a fancy Runde with a 5/16 piloted joint. It had a stainless joint that I changed to a "Plastic or PVC" joint. I know it sounds crazy, but it removed all of the vibration and gives amazing feedback. I mainly did it to get the weight down, move the balance point back a little, and give a bit of relief to me tennis elbow!
I'll second that.
Balabushka, Rambow, Janes, Stroud, Scruggs, Barry, Gus, Runde, Clarke, and many more of the "greats" did it that way if not exclusively then mostly. I really don't think that is an accident. :thumbup:
Edit: I just realized that if I had just made a list of their first names most would have immediately known who they were.....such is their greatness and the greatness of their works.
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Mee too guys. Piloted S.S. 5/16-14. It just feels right. The others are ....I don't
know....quieted, dulled, absorbed, deafened (if that's a word), silenced. I know
that the tip has something to do with it, but whenever I try a cue with a phenolic
or non s.s. joint, it just fees that way to me. Or at least I think it does. Probably
mental, but it is what it is.:thumbup: I am ready to try a sleeved s.s. joint and
see if that makes any difference. To be continued.
know....quieted, dulled, absorbed, deafened (if that's a word), silenced. I know
that the tip has something to do with it, but whenever I try a cue with a phenolic
or non s.s. joint, it just fees that way to me. Or at least I think it does. Probably
mental, but it is what it is.:thumbup: I am ready to try a sleeved s.s. joint and
see if that makes any difference. To be continued.
Ivory flatfaced to wood with a big pin. Current favorite is a Mike Bender Ivory Joint. I like the sound and feel and the looks aren't bad.
Phenolic over 1/2" wood pin, full splice is heaven. Chuck Starkey knows!
Rambow was a brass joint or at least all the ones I've ever seen.
Wood to wood , or wood to phenolic,, 3/8x10 pin,, The reason why would be, its what I've grown accustomed to,, plus I like the feel of wood to wood compared to other combos I've tried.......
Either 5/16 - 14 Steel piloted or
Flat faced big pin phenolic
I like the tradition and longevity of the piloted steel and I like the liveliness of the flat faced phenolic.
I prefer the piloted steel for straight pool and the phenolic flat face for 9-ball.
Flat faced big pin phenolic
I like the tradition and longevity of the piloted steel and I like the liveliness of the flat faced phenolic.
I prefer the piloted steel for straight pool and the phenolic flat face for 9-ball.
My cue collection has every basic type of joint available. But in general prefer the hit & feel of an Ivory joint and the flat faced phenolic wood to wood joint. My favorite joint pin size is the 3/8-10.
Among my cues, I use my ivory jointed coker for playing straight pool. I use my McDermott Dubliner for playing 9-ball. And I use my SS jointed Phillipi for playing 8-ball. So I still do play with a SS jointed cue on occassion.
For me, other factors come into play in what makes me play with a specific cue for a specific game. Such as the primary wood used in the butt, the weight of the cue, the balance of the cue, the tip size and taper of the shaft. You know, the basic funamentals of the cue construction. To me, they all contribute to how a cue feels. It's just not all about the joint.
Among my cues, I use my ivory jointed coker for playing straight pool. I use my McDermott Dubliner for playing 9-ball. And I use my SS jointed Phillipi for playing 8-ball. So I still do play with a SS jointed cue on occassion.
For me, other factors come into play in what makes me play with a specific cue for a specific game. Such as the primary wood used in the butt, the weight of the cue, the balance of the cue, the tip size and taper of the shaft. You know, the basic funamentals of the cue construction. To me, they all contribute to how a cue feels. It's just not all about the joint.
I am surprised more have not said IVORY!
Ivory Flat Faced, 3/8-10.
Radial pin, flat faced ivory.
Feel and high % thread engagement constancy.
Feel and high % thread engagement constancy.
Every one of my playing cues (that I still use) are piloted 5/16-14. Most SS, but I've got a couple Ivory, and a couple that are phenolic. I think the wood makes a difference in the feel for a given type. Have 2 pau farro into pau ferro cues by Olney with phenolic piloted joints. They have a feel real similar to the SS on my Olney ebony into BEM, and I feel like it's the heavier/harder forearm wood that evens out the field. The feel of my 5/16-14 SS piloted amboyna into coco Zinzola has a decidedly firmer feel owing to the coco.
I think a big pin stiffens the play characteristics of a given shaft, which is great for those who like it. I just prefer the "livelier" response of the classic piloted joint.
All comes down to what you grow accustomed to...what makes the world go round.
I think a big pin stiffens the play characteristics of a given shaft, which is great for those who like it. I just prefer the "livelier" response of the classic piloted joint.
All comes down to what you grow accustomed to...what makes the world go round.