What makes one cue better than the other?

Seth 304

Registered
Well,

Currently I play with a $250 Viking cue, it's a pretty good cue--I've never had a complaint out of it. I figured at $250 it would be well enough made to last me and in truth it probably would last me my lifetime, however, I'm ready to invest in a classier cue as the Viking looks a little more 'childish.'

So I've been eye-balling Joss cues, in between the 4-$600 range and they're very nice looking, however the thought occured to me, "What makes it better than the one I'm using?" The only difference I can noticably see is my Viking is made from hard maple and the Joss is made from curly maple. Once again, the wood is beautiful in the Joss--everything about it is.

But performance-wise would there really be a difference? Also I see they all come with a 'buy an extra shaft' option--of which they have manufacturer shafts then OB or Predator shafts for a few hundred more--what performance enhancements does an OB or Predator shaft have over a Joss?

I still intend to pick up a Joss for the look but can anyone help me understand if there's an actual performance difference between the multiple items I've mentioned?

Thank you,
 
What makes one cue better than the other?

Once you get away from the extremely low cost cues (roughly cues under $200 with a few exceptions on both sides), you know all the cues that are made of things other than wood, or that use a really crap wood like ramen wood, or that are just not built very well, then the difference between cues aside from how much extra work went into the look with inlays etc or the use of expensive materials, then the difference between cues is how they feel, hit and play, to you. They are all capable of pretty much the same things, and you will find players, including pros, that like everything from one extreme to the other in regards to cues. Pick any decently built cue, and one guy will love it, and the next guy will hate it. One pro will love it, the next pro will hate it. It is all personal preference.
 
Play with whatever cue you like the looks of the best...you're basically just paying for "pretty." It's the Indian, not the arrow.
 
Play with whatever cue you like the looks of the best...you're basically just paying for "pretty." It's the Indian, not the arrow.

I think that the right cue for you does make a difference. Granted a good player can perform at a decent level with any decent cue, but the more the cue fits him and his preferences, the better he will play. If talking about decent quality cues, one cue isn't inherently better than the another, but one cue is definitely better than another, for you. And for the next guy the cue that wasn't right for you will be the perfect one for him, and the one that was perfect for you would not be so good for him.
 
I think that the right cue for you does make a difference. Granted a good player can perform at a decent level with any decent cue, but the more the cue fits him and his preferences, the better he will play. If talking about decent quality cues, one cue isn't inherently better than the another, but one cue is definitely better than another, for you. And for the next guy the cue that wasn't right for you will be the perfect one for him, and the one that was perfect for you would not be so good for him.


So then basically, the Joss is going to perform about the same as my Viking and paying the extra $200 for a Predator shaft instead of a Joss shaft isn't going to make any real difference either? I'm totally cool with paying the extra money for the looks, the Joss I'm looking at is so beautiful it's almost a shame to shoot with it--I just didn't know if there was any differences between cues once you got beyond them all being made out of one type of maple to the next, etc.

Either way, really excited about the purchase. I don't know if it'll improve me any as a player but it's going to be awesome uncasing that thing when I play. :grin:
 
So then basically, the Joss is going to perform about the same as my Viking and paying the extra $200 for a Predator shaft instead of a Joss shaft isn't going to make any real difference either?

No, that isn't what I was saying at all. They will perform differently for you, because of your preferences. The one that you best like the feel and hit of will be the one that you play better with. Another guy may like the feel and hit of a different cue better, and it will play better for him, but would not play as well for you. One isn't inherently better than the other (meaning one isn't better than another for all people), but one is definitely better than another for each individual person because of their own personal preferences for feel, hit, etc.
 
I recently had a player come over to look at cues and I marked the pool table with chalk and set up a pretty easy cut shot to the corner. I done this so he could hit some different cues and found which brand made him feel he was not forcing the cue to make the shot and run the cue ball off the rail and down cross corner to the opposite corner. After he hit this shot about 30 times with five different cues, I then had him hit draw as to make the shot and not touch the rail which should run along the rail to the far corner pocket on the same side of the table, any extra draw would pull the cue ball towards the middle of the table. He kept hitting the rail, kept hitting the rail and yes, kept hitting the rail. I went to a cabinet and put together an older Schon, handed it to him and his first shot sucked away from the rail so much that he almost made it in the first corner pocket opposite like he was using the rail in the first place. He stood there amazed and just looked at me. I said, suppose your wondering when my next Schon order is coming in, he knew.
I agree, that many people can play an excellent game of pool and I have been beat by almost everyone with a bar cue. But, in my opinion, there is a difference when cues can do some work for you instead of you working the cue. It may cost a few dollars though.
 
No, that isn't what I was saying at all. They will perform differently for you, because of your preferences. The one that you best like the feel and hit of will be the one that you play better with. Another guy may like the feel and hit of a different cue better, and it will play better for him, but would not play as well for you. One isn't inherently better than the other (meaning one isn't better than another for all people), but one is definitely better than another for each individual person because of their own personal preferences for feel, hit, etc.

Oh okay, I got you. Well thanks for the insight fellas/ladies(?)
 
A lot of people will give you different opinions, just as every cue is different. While I agree, it's the indian, not the arrow, there is a big difference in cues. From the wood to wood joints and their different feedback, to the balance point in cues. Then there is the major difference that a tip makes, as well as the shaft diameter. Play with some cues and get a feel for what you like. I think the three most important aspects for a 'player' are those I listed, but they're certainly not the only ones. Beyond that, it's mostly bells and whistles when it comes to inlays and such.
 
Go for Joss, if you love the cue design.
The wood and the work costs, but it doesn't mean that a 600$ Joss cue will play twice better than your Viking cue.
I'm playing now with a 400$ Joss cue, and I'm happy with it. I also tried a 1200$ Predator Ikon 8 cue (great cue, nice hit), a 1600$ Predator Tora 1 (nice design, but a mediocre hit IMHO), a 800$ Meucci (great design, nice hit), a 800$ Mezz Axi (great look, and nice hit), all those cues costs more than my cue, but none of them plays twice or triple better than Joss.
Regarding shafts, is not so simple, you can't compare a standard maple Joss shaft with a low deflection shaft from OB or Predator. I have a Z2 shaft and I'm fine with it, but sometimes I put the standard shaft and also play good pool.

PS If you are ready to spend 600+$ and you don't want only a new cue, you can look for s/h custom cue. The Joss cue is also a good/quality solution, but the resale value will be much lower in future.
 
I find the market is so down, that I would not recommend a production cue. For the money you are going to spend on production cue, you can certainly get into a lower in custom cue on the secondary market.

I recommend the Wanted/For Sale and ebay but not so much ebay as I find it is a fishing expedition often.

Top cue makers such as Andy Gilbert, and Rick Howard are real alternatives for a great cue at production cue prices.

I haven't heard anyone offer a bad review of either, and there are numerous others.

But for me, as mentioned above, get a cue with a great tip, great shafts with excellent taper (Rick's are my favorite), and you will see a tremendous difference at little to no difference in the price you were going to pay.

JMO. I wish you the best of rolls,

Ken
 
Go to the wanted for sale section. Start a thread. I have $600 what you got. You will get many nice looking cues. Some times more than one shaft. I have had several Joss cues. Not a fan of their shafts. Many cues started having rounded points. If you get a Joss maybe look at a retailer. Think you can get a better deal than directly from Joss. Joss is right around the corner from me. MY last two cues have been Jacoby.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
 
Before you get too involved, first decide if you really want LD shafts and which brand you prefer to play with.

Cues feel different from each other. Even cues from the same cuemaker do not all feel the same. There is no absolute best. You need to decide what other characteristics are just right for you. Try as many different cues as you can. Ask players in your local pool room about their cues and hit a few balls with theirs if they will let you.

You will know it when you play with it.
 
I would have to say any cue in the $600 - $1000 price range are same except for the wood, inlays and design in each cue. You usually end up paying for the materials and design. The shaft, tip and the diameter of the shaft is what will make you play better. I have been using a Jacoby with a hard maple jacoby shaft which hits pretty good. They do have good design and you cannot go wrong with Jacoby.
 
Bows and arrows

Play with whatever cue you like the looks of the best...you're basically just paying for "pretty." It's the Indian, not the arrow.

Then why did "Indian" take such care in making their bows and arrows?

In answer to the OP, because I say so.

Seriously, it always comes down to personal preference.
 
I would have to say any cue in the $600 - $1000 price range are same except for the wood, inlays and design in each cue. You usually end up paying for the materials and design. The shaft, tip and the diameter of the shaft is what will make you play better. I have been using a Jacoby with a hard maple jacoby shaft which hits pretty good. They do have good design and you cannot go wrong with Jacoby.

I've been reading layered leather tips are the way to go?
 
I recently had a player come over to look at cues and I marked the pool table with chalk and set up a pretty easy cut shot to the corner. I done this so he could hit some different cues and found which brand made him feel he was not forcing the cue to make the shot and run the cue ball off the rail and down cross corner to the opposite corner. After he hit this shot about 30 times with five different cues, I then had him hit draw as to make the shot and not touch the rail which should run along the rail to the far corner pocket on the same side of the table, any extra draw would pull the cue ball towards the middle of the table. He kept hitting the rail, kept hitting the rail and yes, kept hitting the rail. I went to a cabinet and put together an older Schon, handed it to him and his first shot sucked away from the rail so much that he almost made it in the first corner pocket opposite like he was using the rail in the first place. He stood there amazed and just looked at me. I said, suppose your wondering when my next Schon order is coming in, he knew.
I agree, that many people can play an excellent game of pool and I have been beat by almost everyone with a bar cue. But, in my opinion, there is a difference when cues can do some work for you instead of you working the cue. It may cost a few dollars though.

Good post, with some anecdotal evidence of higher quality cues making some difference...I had a similar experience. Was playing league in Cyprus a couple of years ago. I played with a Carolina Custom that I liked throughout the session, the others (Cypriots) played with a mix of Players, a Lucasi and a Predator. The last match of the session, I brought in my old Schon instead of my jump/break cue. The match was over, we were shooting around and I pulled out the Schon and let them all take turns using it. Everyone of them would hit a shot, then look stunned, holding the Schon in their hands, looking it up and down slowly like they just got shocked by an electric prod. "The balls just go exaclty where you want them too!" was the common reply. I just smiled, unscrewed it and put it carefully back in the case...I've shot with a lot of cues, high and low end, but that cue is the one I'd use if my house depended on it.

The arrow does make a difference...there are plenty of inexpensive cues that will do the job just fine, but there is a point where quality control, construction technique and quality/grade of the materials are at a different level. A pro golfer can pick up a $250 bag of generic Walmart golf clubs and shoot par, but that's not what he takes to the Masters.
 
As many have already said it is probably the hit or feedback you get from the cue that will be the biggest difference between makers. I have a cheaper old Viking, like all of the Vikings I have hit with (they are a popular cue in Wisconsin) they have a very nice solid hit or feedback. I am kinda sniffing around for a nice looking Viking to add to my assortment of cues, I don't think you can go wrong with a Viking. I must keep adding to my assortment of cues until my cue rack is full, like I tell my wife, if you were only supposed to have 1 cue the cue racks would be made to hold just 1 cue.;)
 
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