What pin do you perfer? (out of these choices)

Out of these large pins, which one do you perfer?

  • 3/8 10

    Votes: 51 30.2%

  • 3/8 11

    Votes: 26 15.4%

  • Radial

    Votes: 62 36.7%

  • I think they are the same

    Votes: 30 17.8%
  • Total voters
    169
Why? what's the difference between the old and new 3/8-10 pins?
Click to expand...


if you drill and tap the hole properly on the new style pin you get a very snug fit and the threads in the shaft actually contact the minor diameter of the pin almost 100%.you can feel them riding on the minor as you screw it on.

the minor is the flat area in between the threads.they look almost identical to a SW pin,but the fit is better if you drill/bore the right sized hole and tap with the right tap.

if you drill to .312" and tap with a regular tap then the difference will be looks only.i know lots of people will say that it doesn't matter how much wood contact you have in the threads and it might not,but i love the way these pins play and feel.
 
the pin selection is (little adv.- balance ,tip ,ferrule, taper matters most

preference- I can play with all pins, cues etc. Once the joint is together(screwed,whatever.) They play similiar- I believe the question should have been is their and advantage-with choice of pin type and material- brass and g-10 and stainless,and aluminum- what about Ernie martinez his 3/8-12 brass pin on his cues. I think Jim Mcdermott had a real advantage with his 3/8-10 threads. I have 15 b-model shafts (3/8-10) (I have old Rundy schon ferrules -micarta- on some with kamui's. (thick and thin tips,s,ms,m,mh,h-old joss (crowns jewels) I have some of the origonal french champions and crowns. I have talisman. I feel the tip,ferrule, taper and collar -make more difference than the pin selection choice. I put schon shafts on my joss and phillippi,and pred z-2. I practice on a 5-10 snooker table, playing 8-ball, 9-ball, banks,one hole ,snooker. mark
 
ive done a similar test. i also did 2 piloted one 14 with a full ss joint and a 14 piloted with a thin walled ss joint and their is little difference other then weight.

i would bet money that over 4 cues there isnt one player that can pick out the pin 1-4.

you may get lucky but i would deff come out on top.

in the end imo its all about what you like to look at

as mason said i do like the contact area. more the better. pilot or pin
 
dave sutton said:
ive done a similar test. i also did 2 piloted one 14 with a full ss joint and a 14 piloted with a thin walled ss joint and their is little difference other then weight.

i would bet money that over 4 cues there isnt one player that can pick out the pin 1-4.

you may get lucky but i would deff come out on top.

in the end imo its all about what you like to look at

as mason said i do like the contact area. more the better. pilot or pin
Click to expand...

i hit a couple balls with some guy i knows joss east (i think, it was an earlier joss from when they were still costom) and it hit really bad. too much extra weight in the front and little to no feel.
 
matta said:
I'm certainly not saying two cues with the same joint will play the same. I'm saying two cues with the same taper and balance points but with DIFFERENT joints will play the similar.

The shaft taper has a TON to do with how a cue plays. I'll bet if you take your schon shaft and swap it between the two cues, you will find they play similar. The shafts most likely have different tapers though. That's the difference you are feeling, not the joint.

There are other factors that affect the play too. I personally feel the shaft taper has the majority of control over how the cue will play.
Click to expand...


i've actually swapped the shafts and they played similar but the cues balance was off.

mezz uses different materials to make their cues than schon though. if you cut them down the middle they'll look different. i think there're pictures of a schon split down the middle and mezz has a breakdown of how they're made on their website. i'd bet that's the difference i was feeling. not so much the shaft taper
 
Tolerances

The idea behind the joint in a cue is to create a cue that plays like a non jointed cue but has the convenience of beaing able to break down for storage.It seems like the old school greats (Szamboti, Balabushka.....)used a 5/16-16/18 piloted joint. Not exclusively but most examples I have seen are such, Modern makers seem to use 3/8-10,11 flat faced joint. (Southwest, McWorter....) The difference may be that modern makers have the advantage of computer exact measurements. I asked Jerry Franklin why the 3/8-11 pin, he said it increased the surface area at the pin to shaft location and aided in eliminating lack of energy transference from the shaft to the butt. With todays machinery you can match up the pin to the shaft and the shaft to the butt so well that shaft tapers, wood density, construction precision and method seems like a much bigger factor then the pin itself. Just my theory
 
The pin doesn't matter. I personally use a 3/8-10 flat bottom thread pin. They are not new. I have done so for a long time, and i'm not sure but might be the first doing so. Mine are different than the ones you can buy from Atlas, though. I make mine with a .311" minor so it fits perfectly into my .311" hole. I actually have to lube the shaft threads with teflon in order to get the pin to fit.

My reasoning for using this is because I have always liked the way SW pins fit the shaft. It's a high degree of surface contact, which in common sense terms brings the cue closer to a solid one piece than the traditional 5/16-14 pins that are sloppy fitting. It's even better than the traditional 3/8-10. The reason I chose to make 3/8-10 is because at the time, radials were new & 3/8-11 was too uncommon. The 3/8-10 was common & all the aftermarket shafts came with this joint. It was also easy to get maintenance without having to ship the cue back to me. When I started using this pin, the Predators were the only "low deflection" aftermarket shaft & they came in 5/16-18, 5/16-14, & 3/8-10.
 
3/8-10 is common on a wood to wood jointed McDermott, The measurements are 3/8 = Pin Diamater & 10 = Threads Per inch. My guess is if you have a stainless jointed Mcdermott it is a 5/16-14 or 16 which will be a much finer threaded then a 3/8 - 10 which is most likely what you have . I am assuming your joint is wood to wood
 
Joint?

cbi1000 said:
Out of these pins:

If the joint material is the same what pin would you pick for your cue?

thanks,
Click to expand...
I don't think any player could tell the difference whether it had one or the other. This might be a better question for cue builders. Maybe they prefer working with one size over the others. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
tucson9ball said:
I don't think any player could tell the difference whether it had one or the other. This might be a better question for cue builders. Maybe they prefer working with one size over the others. Just my 2 cents worth.
Click to expand...

Bingo. So long as the cue balances right, weighs right & locks together solid, you will not know or care what pin is inside. I prefer 3/8-10 because of the versatility. Truth be told, nothing is as good as a Uni-Loc Radial in terms of surface contact & accuracy, but I still prefer 3/8-10. If you are so into a cue that the pin mentally makes a difference in playability, then your mind is not on the game & you'll suck, anyway. Yes, the joint pin matters to an extent, but not in any noticeable playability terms.

Take two cues built from wood from the same boards. Put a 5/16-18 pin in one & a radial in the other. Make them both 19oz. with a 19" balance & everything else dead nuts equal. They'll play as close to identical as any two cues anywhere. But what would I know? I have never been a champion player, just lost to them a lot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top