What to expect when ordering a cue to your specs

[TheBook]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:

Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"

No weight bolts

Is this being unreasonable?

What would you expect when you get the cue?

Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.

The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?

If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Thanks

 

[rhncue]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:

Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"

No weight bolts

Is this being unreasonable?

What would you expect when you get the cue?

Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.

The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?

If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Thanks

Well you say that the balance point is a half inch off depending on which shaft. Does that mean that it is closer with the other shaft? It sounds as if the problem is only with one shaft being to heavy and to large. The 12 7/8 is a little under and certainly could of been a little better and the larger shaft, if tapered the same as the other would have brought it's weight down a little. Not using weight bolts makes attaining a perfect weight and balance point much more difficult. I believe if he would re-taper the larger, presumably heavier shaft, the cue would come out pretty close to the specs that you desire although the balance point doesn't sound to far off. If the shafts were equal in weight then little weight could be taken out of the rear of the cue to bring the cue's weight into specs.

The reason for ordering two shafts is to have an exact back-up shaft while one is being repaired so they should be as close to identical as possible. One thing the cue maker was right on was when he commented, "does it feel good? Then don't worry about it." This is as far as the weight and balance point. To often, people get a number in their head and demand that even if it might not be right. A well balanced cue often feels lighter in ones hand. Often I've had people try out a cue and say it really felt good and then ask the weight. When I would tell them they would say "Oh! that's to heavy or to light as I use some other weight." When a cue is ordered it should be built to the customers parameters as close as possible but when it is off a little it shouldn't upset the customer greatly if it plays and feels good. The shaft problem however definitely needs to be corrected though.

Dick

 

[jazznpool]

Shaft and cue length are a cinch but I'd be surprized if someone here says they can hit your specs on the button without the slightest bit of counter weight. Even if you have access to many shaft pairs it would seem difficult to have the exact outcome. I've always tried to give a maker a bit of range with respect to weight and balance. One well-known cuemaker told me to take a hike when I proposed a cue with exacting specs including a weight bolt. I now have a better understanding why--if business is good who needs the stress of a PIA customer?

Shaft diameters shouldn't be off by much, nor should shafts be of a dis-similar weight. I hate it when I see more than .1 of an ounce difference in shaft weights. To me these things indicate lax quality control.

Martin

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:

Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"

No weight bolts

Is this being unreasonable?

What would you expect when you get the cue?

Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.

The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?

If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Thanks

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:

Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"

No weight bolts

Is this being unreasonable?

What would you expect when you get the cue?

Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.

The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?

If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Thanks

Measure the shafts at the bottom of the ferrule. It could be that they are exactly alike & one was sanded just a little too much, when he put the tip on. If so a new ferrule & tip will solve the difference in shaft size...JER
P.S. WHAT IS YOUR REASONING, BEHIND NOT HAVING A WEIGHT BOLT?

 

[blud]

Building a cue without weight bolts is easy. I don't believe in weight bolts. Having weight bolts, and changing them throws the "designed" balance of the cue OFF. When I build a cue with two shafts, one shaft being larger than the other, [ say 1 at 13mm the other at 12.70], I take my time and choose a smaller shaft that will weight the same as the larger one, so the cue is at it's designed weight and balance point, with either shaft.
This is a little trouble. If the customer wants it to weigh at say 19.0z so with either shaft, that's what it will weigh..Weight bolts are for production cues. I build my cues by balancing the differant woods, and a mid-body pin, that can't be changed.
A good cuemaker should know how to do this, without any problems.......or weight bolts.
blud

 

[rhncue]

Building a cue without weight bolts is easy. I don't believe in weight bolts. Having weight bolts, and changing them throws the "designed" balance of the cue OFF. When I build a cue with two shafts, one shaft being larger than the other, [ say 1 at 13mm the other at 12.70], I take my time and choose a smaller shaft that will weight the same as the larger one, so the cue is at it's designed weight and balance point, with either shaft.
This is a little trouble. If the customer wants it to weigh at say 19.0z so with either shaft, that's what it will weigh..Weight bolts are for production cues. I build my cues by balancing the differant woods, and a mid-body pin, that can't be changed.
A good cuemaker should know how to do this, without any problems.......or weight bolts.
blud

Blud
Over the years I've had about three customers who insisted on no weight bolt and all three also insisted on no bolt in the A-joint. They wanted the cue to be metal free other than the pin and actually they would have preferred no metal there. I didn't build the cues as I don't need the aggravation myself.

Dick

 

[TheBook]

Measure the shafts at the bottom of the ferrule. It could be that they are exactly alike & one was sanded just a little too much, when he put the tip on. If so a new ferrule & tip will solve the difference in shaft size...JER
P.S. WHAT IS YOUR REASONING, BEHIND NOT HAVING A WEIGHT BOLT?

The cue in question is not mine. It was ordered by a friend of mine. I think the reason behind the bolt was he didn't want it to be butt heavy. He was more ticked about the shaft sizes. He sold the cue because it wasn't what he wanted.

I asked the question to see what was reasonable when ordering a cue and what you should spec out.

Thanks

 

[CrownCityCorey]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:

Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"

No weight bolts

Is this being unreasonable?

What would you expect when you get the cue?

Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.

The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?

If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Thanks

I think you always need to be somewhat tolerant with ordering a custom cue. You can ask for certain specs, but understand that the end result may not be exactly that.

Get to know a cuemakers work and expect that when you order a cue from them with whatever design or spec request, that your concept will be morphed into their cue.

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

Building a cue without weight bolts is easy. I don't believe in weight bolts. Having weight bolts, and changing them throws the "designed" balance of the cue OFF. When I build a cue with two shafts, one shaft being larger than the other, [ say 1 at 13mm the other at 12.70], I take my time and choose a smaller shaft that will weight the same as the larger one, so the cue is at it's designed weight and balance point, with either shaft.
This is a little trouble. If the customer wants it to weigh at say 19.0z so with either shaft, that's what it will weigh..Weight bolts are for production cues. I build my cues by balancing the differant woods, and a mid-body pin, that can't be changed.
A good cuemaker should know how to do this, without any problems.......or weight bolts.
blud

Hi Blud, are you saying that in order to get the balance point the same with both shafts, you would deliberatly cut one smaller to achieve the same balance point with either shaft?...JER

 

[zeeder]

Hi Blud, are you saying that in order to get the balance point the same with both shafts, you would deliberatly cut one smaller to achieve the same balance point with either shaft?...JER

I think he was saying that if the customer requested two different shaft diameters that he would make sure that they weighed the same regardless of the different sizes.

 

[Sheldon]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:
Shafts 13 mm
Weight 19 oz
Balance 19" from butt
Cue length 58"
No weight bolts
Is this being unreasonable?
What would you expect when you get the cue?
Should one shaft be 12 7/8 and another 13 1/8, and the cue weights 19 1/2+ depending on the shaft and the balance is around 19 1/2+depending on the shaft.
The response from the cuemaker is does it feel good and don't worry about it. Is this typical?
If so what is the purpose of having a custom made cue other than getting the design you want?

Unacceptable. The cuemaker should be able to get a LOT closer than that. Every spec being perfect might not be realistic, but depending upon materials, etc. an acceptable compromise should be attainable. If what you say is true, and the reply was "don't worry about it", your friend did well to sell the cue and move on.
I hate seeing this, because people will hesitate to buy a "custom" cue if they are not given the highest level of service available. It's one of the biggest things that sets custom and production cues apart, in my opinion.

 

[bubsbug]

Unacceptable. The cuemaker should be able to get a LOT closer than that. Every spec being perfect might not be realistic, but depending upon materials, etc. an acceptable compromise should be attainable. If what you say is true, and the reply was "don't worry about it", your friend did well to sell the cue and move on.
I hate seeing this, because people will hesitate to buy a "custom" cue if they are not given the highest level of service available. It's one of the biggest things that sets custom and production cues apart, in my opinion.

Great post Sheldon, I agree!

 

[blud]

cues

Blud
Over the years I've had about three customers who insisted on no weight bolt and all three also insisted on no bolt in the A-joint. They wanted the cue to be metal free other than the pin and actually they would have preferred no metal there. I didn't build the cues as I don't need the aggravation myself.

Dick

Dick, as we both know, we know more about cues than the customer. When they ask for forward balance or weighted rear, or something way out of line, I draw the line.
I know how my cues play best. I'm the builder, designer, and again know how my cues play best.
I, like you, don't need the hassel.
Most will ask for a radial pin, won't build one with that pin. Mine has worked for over 30 years with no complaints. Most hear some guy talking about a BIG PIN is BEST. Bull crap.
Only talk and cheap talk at that.
I'll build the customers design, with in reason, but will not mess with the intergrity of my cues. Not for anyone..........
My cues have proven themselves over the years.
Ask, Buddy, Grady, Jimmy, Danny-D, CJ Whiley, Mary, Belinda, and many more.
blud

 

[blud]

balance point

Hi Blud, are you saying that in order to get the balance point the same with both shafts, you would deliberatly cut one smaller to achieve the same balance point with either shaft?...JER

No.
I'm saying that, even if both shafts are the same size, but differant mm, both shafts will weight the same, so therefore, the cues balance stays pretty darn close to the same location using either shaft. Therefore it plays the same with either shaft....Not hard to figure out.......Think about it..
A customer orders a 19.0z cue with two shafts, one shaft at 13mm, the other at 12.75, so you build a cue at 19.0z using either shaft..Simple.....

blud

 

[magnetardo]

Blud
Over the years I've had about three customers who insisted on no weight bolt and all three also insisted on no bolt in the A-joint. They wanted the cue to be metal free other than the pin and actually they would have preferred no metal there. I didn't build the cues as I don't need the aggravation myself.

Dick

Hey Dick, what do you think about using G-10 for a bolt in the A-joint? I know cuemakers use steel or aluminum depending on weight but I would think G-10 would give one more option that was even lighter than aluminum.

 

[robertno1pool]

Ordering a cue

General manufacturing tolerances should be specified in ordering a custom cue. If you are not familiar with what that cuemaker might consider "normal" tolerances - then the cue maker should tell you when ordering. These tolerances should be justified and not be so tight that it is impossible for a custom cue maker to obtain.

Apparently, shafts being different lenghts can occur as well (I have an example of a custom cue with 2 slightly different length shafts).

Tolerances should not include something that cuemaker considereds proprietary - such as a custom shaft taper - but that taper should be ordered.

If you want razor sharp points, they should be ordered as such.

If you want sharp corners on inlays, you should be willing to pay for the risk of a very small, expensive cutter breaking while cutting a pocket or hand inlays with lots of hours involved.

Shafts should not be 13 mm (+ 0 mm, - 0 mm), but what you have described on your shafts is unacceptable.

If there is nothing different about your cue (rings that will never be built likely again), maybe they can take one of your shafts an put it in a different cue.

 

[bruin70]

You give your specs to a cuemaker for a custom cue. You give them the following besides type of wood and etc:
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks

i would be p!ssed. either the cuemaker can do it or he can't. that's the first thing i would've asked. he totally gave you something you DIDN'T ask for.

you asked for 13mm, and he gave you anything but. and i didn't like his answer either,,,,,"don't worry about it". worry about it because 13mm feels good to you,,,not 12.xx or 13.xx. and of all the things to goof, shaft diameter is the FIRST thing you feel!!! i give cuemakers some teeny leeway re: weight/balance, but not much,,,,but the measurements should be exact.

did you ask for ebony/bem, and did he give you ph/rosewood instead???????

 

[hadjcues]

Considering the specs mentioned above... I believe it would be much clearer if we know the woods involved... there are woods that'll be dead on to those specs, but some would be too light or too heavy....

 

[TheBook]

Considering the specs mentioned above... I believe it would be much clearer if we know the woods involved... there are woods that'll be dead on to those specs, but some would be too light or too heavy....

The cue in question was a standard Buska style. Ebony, BEM. Veneers and some diamond inlays.