Whats a good custom cue for 9 ball?

I recommend a Gus, or George Balabuska. :rolleyes:

My next choice would be a Rick Howard cue, IMO, the best value of any custom cuemaker for playability and price.

Ken
 
Double-Dave said:
Fine, if that is the 1 thing that's holding you back, I will change 2 things to your favor.

Please show a video of yourself making a table length draw shot on a 9 foot, 7 feet between cb and ob
with an extended jump cue (as in, for example, a Predator Air 2 with the extra short butt put on) with a
leather tip of your choosing.
Then do the same with your regular playing cue. After that tell me again the cue is not making it easier.

gr. Dave
Click to expand...
So your point is jump cues and break cues aren't the same as playing cues? So then shouldn't they be called "jump cues" and "break cues" so we won't be confused and try to use them for the wrong purpose?

Oh, wait...

pj
chgo

P.S. By the way:
All normal cues "move the cue ball" equally well.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...
 
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Patrick Johnson said:
So your point is jump cues and break cues aren't the same as playing cues? So then shouldn't they be called "jump cues" and "break cues" so we won't be confused and try to use them for the wrong purpose?

Oh, wait...

pj
chgo

P.S. By the way:
Click to expand...

Oh no, no backpeddaling. You did not specify it had to be a playing cue. You wrote, and I quote:

"it's not the cue itself that's making it easier to move the cue ball - it's either your ability to use it better
because you like it more or (more probably) an "impression" you have because you like it more."

What I did is take your incorrect statement and took it to an extreme to make you see the error
of your ways. The cue does make a difference and depending on the cue it can be a big difference.

Sure, comparing a Mezz sneaky pete with a wx700 shaft and kamui tip to a Predator sneaky pete with a
Tiger tip is not a big difference. But, compare an el cheapo house cue with a 12 cent china made screw
on tip to that same Predator sneaky pete and now the difference is huge.

I do not expect you to admit your statement was incorrect, that's not your style I know.

gr. Dave
 
cue

I play with a fancy Pierce sneaky and i'm very happy with it,hits good great all around cue as far as i'm concerned his bowling alley shafts are fantastic.
 
Man...I must be the luckiest person alive. I own ten cues at the moment, none of them designed for me, I've played with hundreds and not one of them has failed to move the ball.

I'm going to have to keep this in mind the next time I play someone I don't know. I'll look closely at his cue and tell him that it obviously isn't made for whatever game we are playing.

Surely you must now need ten cues to simply play the game of 9-ball...a break cue, a one-ball cue, a two-ball cue, a three....

smh
 
Here is my value pick of the week for only $348.00

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=399789

Or, you could spend $1000.00 to $1200.00 and buy a Schon with a Predator shaft - Very nice combo indeed !!!

And finally - If you know exactly what you want, and will want for a long time - Have a custom made and pay as much as you want for the cosmetics you desire.

Good rolls.
 
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sciarco said:
I play with a fancy Pierce sneaky and i'm very happy with it,hits good great all around cue as far as i'm concerned his bowling alley shafts are fantastic.
Click to expand...

Yes, it is certainly the fact that your shaft was cut from a bowling alley that makes it play so well. The selection and aging processes for bowling alleys was fantastic. I'm pretty sure they selected it based on whether it had once been a tree and dried it as quickly as possible.

But at least a guy found a way to get basically free used wood and charge a premium for it. I'd certainly say that you got the true bowling deal--three fingers in your holes.
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Yes, it is certainly the fact that your shaft was cut from a bowling alley that makes it play so well. The selection and aging processes for bowling alleys was fantastic. I'm pretty sure they selected it based on whether it had once been a tree and dried it as quickly as possible.

But at least a guy found a way to get basically free used wood and charge a premium for it. I'd certainly say that you got the true bowling deal--three fingers in your holes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the laugh :thumbup:
 
tim913 said:
Get yourself a quality cue like a Schon, Pechauer, or others that won't break the bank. Take the shaft that comes with it and put it in your case and leave it there. Buy a custom shaft like Predator, OB, Jacoby..etc...made for the 5/16 x 14 pin for the Pechauer and Schon. If you don't like it after awhile then switch shafts. When you go to sell your cue put the original shaft back on it and sell it in pristine condition. Keep your custom shaft for the next butt with a 5/16 x 14 pin that you buy, or a pin that you prefer.
Click to expand...

This is some of the better advice I have ever read on this forum.
 
Patrick Johnson said:
That's a fallacy. All normal cues "move the cue ball" equally well.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

Patrick Johnson said:
Personal preference is important and can make a difference. But it's not the cue itself that's making it easier to move the cue ball - it's either your ability to use it better because you like it more or (more probably) an "impression" you have because you like it more.

pj
chgo
Click to expand...

HawaiianEye said:
I am saying that as my opinion, which "I" believe is FACT based upon what I have read and observed for over 50 years and from talking to MANY players and cue makers.

Believe what you want to believe or try something out and find out for yourself.
Click to expand...

Meanwhile has anyone tried to draw their rock with a WD700 Shaft/WX700 Shaft? That shaft is a piece of shit. Meanwhile I can draw 2 table lengths with a WX900. The CUE isn't going to change how well the CB moves very much. The shaft on the other hand will. Trust me, the butt on a meucci wasn't the reason the cb moved easier.

Softer hit vs harder/firmer hit might change a bit of the dynamics but if the shaft is a piece of crap its negligible.
 
It has to have inlays and tons of precious metals in it.
The cue ball reacts better to cues that cost 10K+
Shaft and tip don't matter. It's all about the butt and forearm! Oh, and the wrap...make it fancy, you'll get much better action on the cue.
 
Personally I don't understand how the CB could react differently in the .001s the tip touches the CB based on cue configuration but I'm no expert...

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
 
ElCorazonFrio said:
Yes, it is certainly the fact that your shaft was cut from a bowling alley that makes it play so well. The selection and aging processes for bowling alleys was fantastic. I'm pretty sure they selected it based on whether it had once been a tree and dried it as quickly as possible.

But at least a guy found a way to get basically free used wood and charge a premium for it. I'd certainly say that you got the true bowling deal--three fingers in your holes.
Click to expand...

Epic post! :grin::rotflmao1:(Wiping coffee off my monitor right now)
 
cue

phil dade said:
I know there are different cues for billiards and snooker, however, I have never heard of a different cue for 9ball, one pocket etc. Have I been asleep or what?

I fully understsand the difference in the shots required and in each of the games. However, 9 ball you have to let it out more than one pocket, at least more often. Is it not more of stoke than the actual cue. Should you not pick a cue that feels the best and allows you to move the ball, then learn to control or throttle it?

I have never seen someone change a cue for a game like this.

Someone needs to straughten me out.
Click to expand...

I got a cue just made for 9 ball :thumbup:
It looks just like a 8 ball or 10 ball cue but its not , It's magical ,, ( no $hit )
Trust and believe this cue was made just for the game of 9 ball.
Price 9,999, 99 . Hey its a genuine 9 ball cue and it hast to cost more .:kma:
 
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