Whats a good custom cue for 9 ball?
- Thread starter dlx3200
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cues
Only the cues I sale are good for 9 ball :thumbup:
8 ball cues are on special 9 ball cues just went up 25%. :grin-angelic:
Only the cues I sale are good for 9 ball :thumbup:
8 ball cues are on special 9 ball cues just went up 25%. :grin-angelic:
Find a cue you like and experiment with it like Bob J. said. I've only used one cue to play any game on the table and that was the one I owned at that time. If I couldn't play any game on the table with it I'd sell it. When I took up the game seriously some people were still using one shaft for 9 ball and a different one for Straight Pool. The practice had pretty much died out by the late seventies, though.
I think the perfect cue for ANY game depends upon your style of play. You can play all games with the same cue, but the characteristics of different cues make moving the cue ball easier than others.
IMHO, the balance of the cue makes quite a difference. Forward weighted cues seem to be better for people who have a "forward" game...they use "top" or "high" for maneuvering around the table more so than they use "draw". I think cues that are rear-weighted make it easier to "draw" the ball or kill it than forward-weighted cues, especially for shots that are farther away or if you need to "draw" the ball a long distance.
Meucci cues were popular a long time ago because they moved the ball well when most other custom cues were still being made for 14.1 and other games. Most of those cues tended to be more forward-weighted than the Meuccis.
There are world champions that can play with anything, and so can you...but finding a cue that fits "YOU" requires a bit of trial and error.
Aloha.
IMHO, the balance of the cue makes quite a difference. Forward weighted cues seem to be better for people who have a "forward" game...they use "top" or "high" for maneuvering around the table more so than they use "draw". I think cues that are rear-weighted make it easier to "draw" the ball or kill it than forward-weighted cues, especially for shots that are farther away or if you need to "draw" the ball a long distance.
Meucci cues were popular a long time ago because they moved the ball well when most other custom cues were still being made for 14.1 and other games. Most of those cues tended to be more forward-weighted than the Meuccis.
There are world champions that can play with anything, and so can you...but finding a cue that fits "YOU" requires a bit of trial and error.
Aloha.
Are you stating that as fact or your opinion?
FALLACY or not,I have tried lots of cues and some are easier for me to move the cue ball around.
Some I can pocket longer shots,straight in shots etc
The cue I have b now is a Larry Vigus,it is easy to play with'
I make longer shots,straight ins and it makes the game easier for me
Other cues I like are south west and Nemic ,these three play the way I like.
Cues with long pro taper are not good for me
Some I can pocket longer shots,straight in shots etc
The cue I have b now is a Larry Vigus,it is easy to play with'
I make longer shots,straight ins and it makes the game easier for me
Other cues I like are south west and Nemic ,these three play the way I like.
Cues with long pro taper are not good for me
Got any pictures?
Personal preference is important and can make a difference. But it's not the cue itself that's making it easier to move the cue ball - it's either your ability to use it better because you like it more or (more probably) an "impression" you have because you like it more.
pj
chgo
I am saying that as my opinion, which "I" believe is FACT based upon what I have read and observed for over 50 years and from talking to MANY players and cue makers.
Believe what you want to believe or try something out and find out for yourself.
What you are saying is complete BS, when it comes to the same cue being used by "different" players.
If EVERY cue felt and operated the "same" for "everybody", then there wouldn't be a cue market.
I played with 4 different cues yesterday and they all played "different". Say whatever you want, to each their own.
You, and several more like you, just like to argue and question everything. I'm eagerly awaiting for your DVD to come out!
Please show a video of yourself making a table length draw shot on a 9 foot, 7 feet between cb and ob with a 42" jump cue with g10 or phenolic tip.
Then do the same with your regular playing cue. After that tell me again the cue is not making it easier.
gr. Dave
Agree. Lots of people arguing just for the sake of it..I have a fiberglass cue I bought as a break cue when I was just getting started in pool. It is stiff as a metal rod and has no feeling what so ever. Can I draw the ball with it? Sure, but the terrible balance and feel means I struggle getting the maximum out of my stroke, and I have no feeling when it comes to the length of the draw. I currently own 2 playing cues that both are balanced perfectly for my stroke and I use a Z2 on both. I feel that I have excellent control with these cues and the draw is without any effort at all. I think about where I want my cue ball and it ends up there most of the time. I've tried playing with the old break cue for a couple of days, but I always give it up, it is a hopeless task to play proper pool with it, at least for me.
To the OP: Almost any aftermarket shaft will move the ball well: Mezz, Predator, OB, Meucci, Tiger.. That is because these shafts sell on their "wow" factor and performance. If some random nobody picks up a cue with a shaft like that and he can't draw the ball more than a diamond, he won't be too impressed, and these companies will lose the sale. That's why these shafts are "juiced" to give a little extra flex, which translates into easier movement of the cue ball. The really heavy "log" shafts of many custom cues won't move the ball as easily (remember that these are often extra thick and beefy, because buyers want "quality shafts", to increase resale value. To many people, a thick cue shaft with heavy shaft wood is more desirable (and more customizable later) than a thinner shaft which may be more playable. You may be able to get the same maximum distance of draw, but with more effort and less feel.
To the OP: Almost any aftermarket shaft will move the ball well: Mezz, Predator, OB, Meucci, Tiger.. That is because these shafts sell on their "wow" factor and performance. If some random nobody picks up a cue with a shaft like that and he can't draw the ball more than a diamond, he won't be too impressed, and these companies will lose the sale. That's why these shafts are "juiced" to give a little extra flex, which translates into easier movement of the cue ball. The really heavy "log" shafts of many custom cues won't move the ball as easily (remember that these are often extra thick and beefy, because buyers want "quality shafts", to increase resale value. To many people, a thick cue shaft with heavy shaft wood is more desirable (and more customizable later) than a thinner shaft which may be more playable. You may be able to get the same maximum distance of draw, but with more effort and less feel.
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Then we agree - that's what I said:
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OK, we can eliminate cues with phenolic tips from my statement. Darn, all that remains is all the cues that are actually used to play the game.
pj
chgo
The last time I looked at the WPA regulations, phenolic tips were illegal.
OK, we can eliminate cues with phenolic tips from my statement. Darn, all that remains is all the cues that are actually used to play the game.
pj
chgo
Fine, if that is the 1 thing that's holding you back, I will change 2 things to your favor.
Please show a video of yourself making a table length draw shot on a 9 foot, 7 feet between cb and ob
with an extended jump cue (as in, for example, a Predator Air 2 with the extra short butt put on) with a
leather tip of your choosing.
Then do the same with your regular playing cue. After that tell me again the cue is not making it easier.
gr. Dave