What's the best glue to use for in between layers of a tip?
- Thread starter thubosky
- Start date
Elmers white glue or contact cement.
I am compelled to anwer "hide glue". Thank you for understanding.
What's wrong with the rubber based? And Where can I get that titebond? Also, do people really use Elmer's glue? I wouldn't think that'd be strong enough to hold up to the heat while burnishing and installing the tip.
Thanks,
Tim
IMHO the glue is one of their secrets , when not THE secret...
Why don't you call them up and ask?
Last edited:
Titebond is a wood glue that can be pressed very thin.
Contact cement is a rubber glue that actually never fully cures, thus making the tip sticky in between layers.
You need a glue that dryes completely, have great bonding strength, while being very thin and not penetrate the layers too much like cyno do...
Contact cement is a rubber glue that actually never fully cures, thus making the tip sticky in between layers.
You need a glue that dryes completely, have great bonding strength, while being very thin and not penetrate the layers too much like cyno do...
I noticed like titebond and titebond 2 and 3 lol which is the best? Also, why not leather glue? I guess its for fixing leather and synthetic garments.
That would be hide glue.
Titebond varieties ate different cure times and strengths, also hardnesses. Go to your local Woodcraft and ask the guys there, you'll learn a lot about the applications.
Flexible super glue may or may not work depending on how it permeates the leather.
If you're doing this for the first time, expect to ruin all of it as part of the learning curve.
Aloha
Give this a try and see if it will work better.
3M Vinyl and Leather Adhesive 18061,
Aloha
Give this a try and see if it will work better.
3M Vinyl and Leather Adhesive 18061,
Aloha
Ask John Barton.
He knows everything. And I'm not trying to be a wise guy.
He really is very up on these things.
During the great Chinese cue war thread a couple years ago he came up with glue facts that even the glue makers did not know.
Still the greatest thread ever on AZB.
He knows everything. And I'm not trying to be a wise guy.
He really is very up on these things.
During the great Chinese cue war thread a couple years ago he came up with glue facts that even the glue makers did not know.
Still the greatest thread ever on AZB.
Last edited:
Aloha
There is a lot of good info here also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZivTuEw8Pg&sns=em
Aloha
There is a lot of good info here also.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aZivTuEw8Pg&sns=em
Aloha
Aloha
Just researching this it sounds like you need to be careful the type of glue you use, vs how the leather was tanned.
Just setting here brainstorming the process, and I may piss the wife off, but thinking of using the pasta press out of the kitchen to press the layers together. It would allow for changing the distance between the rollers so the layers could be pressed together consistently, although not very wide, the strips could be pretty long. I'll let you know how it goes. If you don't hear back from me by the end of the day, the wife has probably put me to rest
It looks like depending on the leather used, the finish may have to be removed from the top, or at least scuffed to get good adhesion between the layers, then the only other factor is the mil thickness of the leather. Looks like consistant layers are a must have, but the leather contact cement should work good with a little thinning and scuffed surfaces on the leather. Then it all comes down to drying time on the cement, with multiple coats.
Anyway I babble on, good luck.
Aloha
Just researching this it sounds like you need to be careful the type of glue you use, vs how the leather was tanned.
Just setting here brainstorming the process, and I may piss the wife off, but thinking of using the pasta press out of the kitchen to press the layers together. It would allow for changing the distance between the rollers so the layers could be pressed together consistently, although not very wide, the strips could be pretty long. I'll let you know how it goes. If you don't hear back from me by the end of the day, the wife has probably put me to rest
It looks like depending on the leather used, the finish may have to be removed from the top, or at least scuffed to get good adhesion between the layers, then the only other factor is the mil thickness of the leather. Looks like consistant layers are a must have, but the leather contact cement should work good with a little thinning and scuffed surfaces on the leather. Then it all comes down to drying time on the cement, with multiple coats.
Anyway I babble on, good luck.
Aloha
Sorry to jack the thread but this brings up a question I have had for some time. If a person scuffs a tip to a dime shape, you may possibly use 2 or 3 layers at any given time. The glue between the layers would not hold chalk well. Could it be a reason for a miscue? Could this be a noticeable issue that hasn't been talked about much or a has it been covered and I'm finally being exposed as an idiot?:thumbup:
Yes, one of the big failings of layered tips. They are best shaped on a lathe and then treated with a very light abrasive like the Kamui scuffer.
Thanks for the info and the video was interesting too. I'm wondering if I should cut my half glued tip apart and re-glue each layer with a different glue once I get it or just start over but the layers are still good. I actually glued oversized circle pieces of the leather and then cut it down to 14mm after the glue dried and I kept it in a press to dry. I'm thinking I pressed too much glue out and also not the right glue.