What's the best rack for 14.1?

Certainly I agree with to each their own, and I wouldn't want my post to be interpreted as downing anyone who does anything they want to their own table.

I imagine how crazy it would make me, and how it would get in my head, if in a tournament on a tapped table, my CB rolled on top of an OB because it took that extra turn into a ding, so I'd hate to see that become the norm for racking.

I guess there is just a part of me, being the old fashioned type, not wanting 14.1 to morph into some other kind of game and I think that while it's absolutely great to see the younger players becoming interested in the game, I really hope it maintains its classic style.

What with the rule changes, talk of ball in hand after fouls, outlining balls for no real purpose relative to the playability of the 15th ball, holding 14.1 tournaments and not outlining the tables at all, tapping dings in the table, I guess I hate to see the game change for the sake of being fashionable.

Oh well, someone great once said, "Forgive them for they know not what they do." :)

On a tapped table, the indentions made by tapping are sloped, and are very small, so a ball must be moving very slowly to be deflected and it must hit a very small target. With a foot spot you have a much longer edge that is not sloped and will easily deflect a slow rolling ball and is a bigger target than all the small indentations put together. With the sticker systems you also have a wider sticker to deflect balls as well as a hole for them to sit in, neither of which are sloped to minimize deflection.

Once in a while, a ball will roll into an indentation and settle there. It just happens way less often than most people would believe that don't have experience on tapped tables. I've had many tournament matches affected by deflection from spot stickers in the past and seen it many times with others playing. You just don't really see the same type of deflection with tapped tables that you sometimes get with a spot sticker where a slow rolling cueball catches the edge of the spot and takes a turn and travels the wrong direction for the last four or five inches of roll.

A tapped table also will not get grooves in it caused from rolling the rack forward and backward trying to find the sweet spot to rack, so it actually can leave the racking area much less plowed up than normal racking.

The European Championships were completed last week, once again using tapped tables for 8 ball, 9 ball, 10 ball, and straight pool. No spots, no racks and no complaints with the most tournament tested tight rack system in the world.

Of course you can easily use a rack with a tapped table playing straight pool. Just throw the balls into the rack, shove them up loosely into place and let them settle as a unit instead of trying to squeeze them together.
 
Slivers

I dunno... I love my Diamond rack. Before someone says, "They're big compared to the Delta or whatever..."--- that 1/4" doesn't make a difference.... the opponent has to use the same rack too. I love that rack.

Dave

I've gotten slivers from them. Nothing like getting sharked by the rack with a sliver in the index finger of your bridge hand!

Ron F
 
You have a great product...

On a tapped table, the indentions made by tapping are sloped, and are very small, so a ball must be moving very slowly to be deflected and it must hit a very small target. With a foot spot you have a much longer edge that is not sloped and will easily deflect a slow rolling ball and is a bigger target than all the small indentations put together. With the sticker systems you also have a wider sticker to deflect balls as well as a hole for them to sit in, neither of which are sloped to minimize deflection.

Once in a while, a ball will roll into an indentation and settle there. It just happens way less often than most people would believe that don't have experience on tapped tables. I've had many tournament matches affected by deflection from spot stickers in the past and seen it many times with others playing. You just don't really see the same type of deflection with tapped tables that you sometimes get with a spot sticker where a slow rolling cueball catches the edge of the spot and takes a turn and travels the wrong direction for the last four or five inches of roll.

A tapped table also will not get grooves in it caused from rolling the rack forward and backward trying to find the sweet spot to rack, so it actually can leave the racking area much less plowed up than normal racking.

The European Championships were completed last week, once again using tapped tables for 8 ball, 9 ball, 10 ball, and straight pool. No spots, no racks and no complaints with the most tournament tested tight rack system in the world.

Of course you can easily use a rack with a tapped table playing straight pool. Just throw the balls into the rack, shove them up loosely into place and let them settle as a unit instead of trying to squeeze them together.

Great point about tapped tables not getting "plowed up" to find the "sweet spot." If you will remember you had sent me your product to demo and I want to say here that it works. Another good point in your post is that even though a table is tapped it is still ok to use a rack instead of taking the time to place each ball individually. I do this, and it's why I am making the bentwood triangles. Just sold the first figured circassian walnut veneered one, and I have a deal pending on a mission oak one. Is there anyone on here who could host my photos? The files are too large to cut and paste from my computer, and I do not have access to a computer that will allow me to use an image host like photobucket. I am making the triangles to help out a foster family.
 
I just posted links to photos of my bentwood racks...

Go to the wanted/for sale section and you will see a thread for the oak and a thread for the walnut. There is a LOT of labor in these which I am doing for free to benefit some kids... might as well be doing something active while watching tv. The first oak one is going to Alex Flores of Cali, and the first figured walnut one is sold to Ron Russo of NYC. I will see if I can get them to post reviews of these on AZ after they receive them. I am going to bring them to Diamond Billiards in Midlothian VA tomorrow night to show around.

I can veneer these in just about any fancy wood you would like. The quartersawn oak is so stiff that for now they are more of a display item but I will use a different core for the next one and that should solve it.
 
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Great point about tapped tables not getting "plowed up" to find the "sweet spot." If you will remember you had sent me your product to demo and I want to say here that it works. Another good point in your post is that even though a table is tapped it is still ok to use a rack instead of taking the time to place each ball individually. I do this, and it's why I am making the bentwood triangles. Just sold the first figured circassian walnut veneered one, and I have a deal pending on a mission oak one. Is there anyone on here who could host my photos? The files are too large to cut and paste from my computer, and I do not have access to a computer that will allow me to use an image host like photobucket. I am making the triangles to help out a foster family.

Just re-size the pictures using MSPaint. Make copies and resize the copies so you still have the originals in the correct size. Also, I've noticed the last couple of pics I've attached here got re-sized automatically.
 
I dunno... I love my Diamond rack. Before someone says, "They're big compared to the Delta or whatever..."--- that 1/4" doesn't make a difference.... the opponent has to use the same rack too. I love that rack.

Dave

It's not that the Diamond is bigger, the Diamond is cornered/squared off. Try drawing an outline with that thing. A few years ago, I attempted to pencil in the outline, and when I saw how shitty it looked, I almost tossed it through a window. But.... IMO, the Diamond does THE BEST job for getting the balls locked into position. It's a great rack. So... what I did, was I used a regular old cheap plastic rack to make an outline - then I made guide marks with a Sharpie on the inside of the Diamond At the apex and at the bottom to ensure that the balls are properly in position. Now, there are times when the Diamond gets in the way IF I have a break ball close to the stack - so I just tell myself "don't do that" - and I avoid those problems.

;)
 
A quote from Johnny Archer: "For straight pool, the balls have to be tapped."

I don't know if Johnny still feels the same way after last Sunday. They were near the end and the score was close it looked like the first player to get a shot would win. They must have played 3 or 4 safes were they barely touched the end ball (super thin) and none of balls moved out of the rack. Earl said I've never seen that before. I know it doesn't come up often but that why I wouldn't want the balls tapped or use a magic rack for straight pool or 1 pocket, JMHO.
 
somebody lightened the photo and posted for me....

you can see the photo of my bentwood triangle in the wanted/for sale section now without going to a link. please check it out. the racks came out nice and rigid but super-lightweight.
 
I dunno... I love my Diamond rack. Before someone says, "They're big compared to the Delta or whatever..."--- that 1/4" doesn't make a difference.... the opponent has to use the same rack too. I love that rack.

Dave
Thats y dave has my Delta 13 so good for 14.1 should call it Delta 14
 
you can see the photo of my bentwood triangle in the wanted/for sale section now without going to a link. please check it out. the racks came out nice and rigid but super-lightweight.

Wow! Very nice... I didn't really know what you were talking about, lol.
 
Surprisingly, one of the stiffest and smallest racks I've used was an acrylic Bud Light rack. It sucked having a blue rack with the logo, but it worked and took up very little space around the rack. It was also dirt cheap.
 
I don't know if Johnny still feels the same way after last Sunday. They were near the end and the score was close it looked like the first player to get a shot would win. They must have played 3 or 4 safes were they barely touched the end ball (super thin) and none of balls moved out of the rack. Earl said I've never seen that before. I know it doesn't come up often but that why I wouldn't want the balls tapped or use a magic rack for straight pool or 1 pocket, JMHO.

Yes, I saw that. Earl tapped the balls in without using a template in the Van Boening match from what I understand. I'm not sure how he went about that process in that match or the Archer match. If you hold the balls frozen in position and tap them down, the spacing of the indents will be an exact ball width. This means the balls sit in the bottom of the indents, and to maintain a frozen rack for any length of time the balls need to be tapped very hard since the tendency is for the balls to separate with use. The balls of course then have to climb up from the bottom of the hole to move, and have to move the full radius of the indent to escape gravity.

With the patented Rack-M-Rite Racking Template, the spacing of the indents will be tighter than a ball width. This causes the balls to rest on the edge of the indent instead of the bottom, and lean slightly in toward the center to freeze. This means the table can be tapped more gently and maintain a tighter rack for a longer time, the balls do not have as much resistance to movement, and they escape the force of gravity much more quickly.
 
I agree completely

Yes, I saw that. Earl tapped the balls in without using a template in the Van Boening match from what I understand. I'm not sure how he went about that process in that match or the Archer match. If you hold the balls frozen in position and tap them down, the spacing of the indents will be an exact ball width. This means the balls sit in the bottom of the indents, and to maintain a frozen rack for any length of time the balls need to be tapped very hard since the tendency is for the balls to separate with use. The balls of course then have to climb up from the bottom of the hole to move, and have to move the full radius of the indent to escape gravity.

With the patented Rack-M-Rite Racking Template, the spacing of the indents will be tighter than a ball width. This causes the balls to rest on the edge of the indent instead of the bottom, and lean slightly in toward the center to freeze. This means the table can be tapped more gently and maintain a tighter rack for a longer time, the balls do not have as much resistance to movement, and they escape the force of gravity much more quickly.

I recommend your template. It works for me.
 
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