What's used to shave tips when it's turning on a lathe?

I have done the "razor blade" thing but it's not my preferred way. On Kamui tips I have to apply some pressure on the layers which makes the whole thing a little "unstable". I'm sure this works fine for LePros and other "non-layered" tips.

I have a ultra fresh and sharp lathe tool which I use auto feed on really slow feed. I use really low rpm's. Then I use a file-kit where I go from a fairly raw file and down to a very fine one.

Finnish it up with fine sand paper and I'm done.

Not as quick as other methods but then I feel I have 100% control. I use the file to shape the tip as well (nickel shape at the front).

N
 
Newton said:
...I use a file-kit where I go from a fairly raw file and down to a very fine one.
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File-kit?

(I'm not mechanically-inclined so what is it and where can I get one?) :confused:
 
Well, a file would look like something like these :D
I did no big thoughts before I grabbed a couple of these, it was just something I had in my drawer.
I have also a "nail-file" looking kit which is nice..

N
 

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The trick with the razor is you gotta spin it pretty fast and have a sharp blade. On layered I make the tip concentric with a lathe tool then use the blade to trim to final size and burnish.
 
about my arnot (since ur mailboz is full) - i think the shaft is pretty good, i had it taper down to 12 and it shoots straight and low deflection. the weight of mine is 18.5oz very balanced. i have ivory ferrule and joint put on it with radial brass pin, hits solid and tons of action on the qb. the only thing is u can go to his website and check out my cue, its purpleheart forearm butt sleeve, curly maple handle and ivory trim ring. his cues are kinda pricy tho.
 
Tony from Tiger told me to only use a razor blade when doing sniper tips. I called because I told him I was having layers split and tips getting mushy really fast and he said not to use the lathe tool at all. He also said if the tip doesn't want to trim with a fresh razor blade to put a drop or 2 of water on the tip and that helps cut them. It worked so well for me that I've adopted that method on all tips I do except for the really soft chalk impregnated tips. Moisture cause those tips to swell up anyways so I just use a fresh razor everytime with those. It just adds yet another reason for me to hate those tips.

Hope this helps.

Diamond Dave
 
I do just the opposite!?

RocketQ said:
The trick with the razor is you gotta spin it pretty fast and have a sharp blade. On layered I make the tip concentric with a lathe tool then use the blade to trim to final size and burnish.
Click to expand...

I do just the opposite here......I use a very sharp razor blade to trim the tip very close to the ferrule (wetting the tip is somewhat helpful) then I turn the shaft/tip in the lathe and using a sharp cutting tool trim the tip concentric back to the ferrule; then I use a piece of 400 to 600 to 800 grit sandpaper to smooth of the rough edges; then a piece of leather or a tool to burnish the tip down to the size of the ferrule!? I'm still learning the art :eek: but, most folks have been very pleased with my results :)
 
It should be mentioned that using my method (a sharp lathe tool) with to much RPMs and slow feedrate builds up to much heat and kils the layers on the Kamui.

The tip then double it's size (like a dry sponge getting water) , getting softer and is destroyed.

I would have a go with the higher RPMs and a dead fresh blade on the next Kamui.

N
 
krbsailing said:
I do just the opposite here......I use a very sharp razor blade to trim the tip very close to the ferrule (wetting the tip is somewhat helpful) then I turn the shaft/tip in the lathe and using a sharp cutting tool trim the tip concentric back to the ferrule; then I use a piece of 400 to 600 to 800 grit sandpaper to smooth of the rough edges; then a piece of leather or a tool to burnish the tip down to the size of the ferrule!? I'm still learning the art :eek: but, most folks have been very pleased with my results :)
Click to expand...
6 of one half dozen of the other. If it works for you keep up the good work.
 
RocketQ said:
The trick with the razor is you gotta spin it pretty fast and have a sharp blade. On layered I make the tip concentric with a lathe tool then use the blade to trim to final size and burnish.
Click to expand...
ditto...........
 
DiamondDave said:
Tony from Tiger told me to only use a razor blade when doing sniper tips. I called because I told him I was having layers split and tips getting mushy really fast and he said not to use the lathe tool at all. He also said if the tip doesn't want to trim with a fresh razor blade to put a drop or 2 of water on the tip and that helps cut them. It worked so well for me that I've adopted that method on all tips I do except for the really soft chalk impregnated tips. Moisture cause those tips to swell up anyways so I just use a fresh razor everytime with those. It just adds yet another reason for me to hate those tips.

Hope this helps.

Diamond Dave
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There is no tip that is "IMPREGNATED" with chalk. The grayish blue tips are cured (tanned), using a chemical called "chrome", instead of the natural tanning process...JER
 
BLACKHEARTCUES said:
There is no tip that is "IMPREGNATED" with chalk. The grayish blue tips are cured (tanned), using a chemical called "chrome", instead of the natural tanning process...JER
Click to expand...
What about elkmasters?
 
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