When you do a conversion...

alstl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
How hard is it to get a conversion to match the playability of a cue you build from scratch?
 
How hard is it to get a conversion to match the playability of a cue you build from scratch?

It depends upon the way the cue is converted, IE, is it cut in half with a handle added, is it cored, and on and on. It is very hard to build any two cues that will hit exactly alike, in most cases when you talking about a conversion you are talking about a Full Splice Bar or House cue that is converted. However, some people also convert older cues into updated playing cues, and sometimes these will already have a handle between the forearm and the cues butt.

I personally think the hardest part about making a new cue hit and play like a conversion is the wood. Older wood has a different resonance because of it's age, and this can greatly affect a cues playability and hit. So in most cases when you say conversion you are talking about an old cue with wood that is from 20 to 100 years old.

Take Care
 
To me the answer is, that it's not as hard to get a convesion to play like any other cue. The problem is to get the conversion to BALANCE like any other cue...JER
 
It also depends on the wood that is in the house cue. If it has a really light weight wood in the handle area you will not just be able to add a joint and new shaft and make it play like a custom cue. You would have to cut it behind the points and install a joint there to put the weight in the right place. Or you might core it and run a heavier wood through it. I have only done maybe a couple of dozen conversion cues in the last 20 years. However I have built a lot of full splice cues. The difference is I am not taking a house cue and converting it, but am starting with a blank that was spliced using similar methods to a house cue. This allows me to decide what pieces of wood will be used for the handle and forearm areas. So I can produce the balance that plays like I want a cue to play. Most older house cues were produced with fatter handles to give a playable weight. When thinned down to custom cue specs they become very light. When adding a huge weight bolt in the back like most do, they will not balance and play like a good custom cue is expected to play.
 
It also depends on the wood that is in the house cue. If it has a really light weight wood in the handle area you will not just be able to add a joint and new shaft and make it play like a custom cue. You would have to cut it behind the points and install a joint there to put the weight in the right place. Or you might core it and run a heavier wood through it. I have only done maybe a couple of dozen conversion cues in the last 20 years. However I have built a lot of full splice cues. The difference is I am not taking a house cue and converting it, but am starting with a blank that was spliced using similar methods to a house cue. This allows me to decide what pieces of wood will be used for the handle and forearm areas. So I can produce the balance that plays like I want a cue to play. Most older house cues were produced with fatter handles to give a playable weight. When thinned down to custom cue specs they become very light. When adding a huge weight bolt in the back like most do, they will not balance and play like a good custom cue is expected to play.

Thanks everybody for the replies. So to move the balance forward and get the weight where you want it you have to core the forearm or do something else to achieve what you are looking for.

Thanks.
 
Thanks everybody for the replies. So to move the balance forward and get the weight where you want it you have to core the forearm or do something else to achieve what you are looking for.

Thanks.

Longer pin works too.
 
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