Which blank should I pick and why?

TommyLee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Picking a blank for a titlist and have two options. Bubinga and straight grain maple or purpleheart and curly.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 473
Last edited:
I agree with the top that's what I'm leaning towards, plus I think it'll look better with the white and green speck wrap
 
I wouldn't pick either, I would look at oak titlist....my favorite. When done right it is awesome IMO.

Between the two noted above, I like the wood in the top one....and the veneers in the second one....

I'm not any help at all....

Ken
 
Just personal taste but I like the Bubinga.

It might be my monitor and my untrained eyes, but to me the veneers look identical.
 
Look identical to me as well, both titlist veneers both Davis blanks. Keep in mind hoppe ring ivory joint and white with green speck wrap. IMO it's some pretty damn nice bubinga
 
Agree with everyone on getting the top one. With a good finish, that bubinga will come to life!
 
Tommy, I have 2 PH Tru Balance conversions and they play wonderful so I tend to be a little partial toward certain, not all, PH cues.

I know many don't care for PH. That said, if I had to make a choice on this one, I would probably opt for the Bubbinga.

Nice grain and when it has a clear coat on it, it will look great. It does look like the one point is missing a bit but it probably needs to be taken down a tad anyway and it will straighten out. No biggy. I have had many old cues where the glue has given way and the end points have been chipped off.

I take a round tooth pick and sand it to shape, stain it and glue it into place. Can hardly tell. I do repairs and only dabble a bit in building so not an expert by far. Still in the learning process in that regard.

Both of my conversions are bumperless with Delrin butt caps. Looks just fine with that chrome hex head holding the cap on. On one of them, I had an extended Delrin cap
put on to try and give it a bit of the Tad look.

You could also incorporate a Hoppe ring as well. Lots of little ways to spruce them up a bit. The veneers look great and will pop nicely with the clear coat.
 
Last edited:
the top one for sure will be sharp the grain in the handle looks really nice.

PH is great but in comparison the top one give the PH the 7 lol
 
Yeah blue it's gonna have a hoppe and a black phenolic butt cap. Just like this http://pfdcues.com/html/cues/0401.html
And yes the blanks are oversized

Bubinga, looks nicer, and I think better for "resale" purposes down the road. PH is hit or miss with many folks, so why get a cue that many will not even consider...... And I know you are never going to sell it, but trust me, one day something else might catch your eye...
 
I just sent the email going with the bubinga, it's gonna be awesome when finished. And yes rj if something catches my eye I might have to pass because this is my very first custom and I don't know if ill ever be able to part with it
 
Last edited:
PH because it is straight-grained and probably more stable than bubinga.
 
Sorry I should have pointed out that I picked one for my cue, both blanks belong to pfd.

I hope you have the wrap cut low so the points show completely - that is some nice work there and some nice wood too. If it were mine I would definitely go wrapless - the wood is too pretty to cover it up.
 
It's gonna have a wrap, I'm leaving it up to mr drexler to be the creative mastermind on this
 
The top one is prettiest.

Titlist were in production for 40-50 years? How many cues were made per week? How many men did it take? How was the labor divided?
 
Back
Top