Who use liquids when cleaning a shaft?

Newton

Newton

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I read the "Stop playing dirty pool" article by Martyne Bachmen in BD some years ago, where she recommended a damped cloth to wipe of the chalk and then burnish with a soft towel (or something close to this if I remember it correct).

Edit: Link to article : http://chalkers.com/articles/id38.htm Some nice articles about cue makers and other interesting stuff as well :-)


This pretty much takes everything off BUT the shaft at that time changed totally characteristics. This was my first Pred 314 shaft, and applying the procedure actually softened the shaft A LOT.... My backup shaft (314) which was hardly used felt so different compared to the playing shaft that I actually left both of them.

If this was related to the shaft or the procedure, I'm not 100% sure of, but after I started using OB-1 shafts this has not occurred where I never use a damped cloth any more.

So now when I change tips for customers and clean the shaft, I never use any liquids at all. I simply use a sponge first (dry) and then apply 1200grid paper to smooth it out and then burnish with a leather strip. No wax, no magic "Mr X" cue clean or anything.

So then, what is you're procedure and have you experienced a shaft (laminated that was) has changed characteristics after you're way of doing the work?

N
 
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i will use a rag or towell that is barely damp.just moist.it doesn't really get it 100% clean,but it does a pretty good job.i don't like getting them too wet,they will soften up like you sadi and sometimes moisture,wax or whatever will raise the spine up and you can feel it when stroking.i hate that feeling.
 
I have used the MAGIC ERASER, with alcohol to clean dozens of shafts every week, for several years. I have also used it with water. Neither, ever softened or changed the feel or play of the shafts. After cleaning, I burnish the shaft dry, with a dry paper towel in the lathe. I follow up with a light sanding with 1000 & then 1500. Lastly I use a sealer & a final burnish. I play 4-5 times a week, with my own Q. Once near the end of each night, I SLIGHTLY dampen a paper towel & wipe down my shaft. Then take a dry towel & burnish the shaft & wipe the tip off. That takes most of the blue chalk off, that would have gone into my case. I've been playing with my present Q for 6-7 years. My shafts are flat laminated & show no affects from the cleanings. Any cleaning that involves even light sanding should be done as little as possible. I only use the MAGIC ERASER cleaning on my Q about once a year...JER
 
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When I play a lot, I wash my hands when the cue starts feeling sticky. I dry them off with a paper towel, then use that paper towel to wipe down my shaft. I've never had a problem and my shafts are always clean. I can't stand people that load up with that white chalk. If they'd just wash their filthy hands, they wouldn't need it.
 
When playing I wipe with a dry towel. After play I wipe with denatured alcohol, then wipe with 1500 grit and then burnish with leather. When it gets dirty I wipe with a Magic Eraser dampened with water or alcohol, then wipe a few times with 1000 grit and then 1500 then burnish with leather.

Should I be using a sealer? I"ve been worried it would make it sticky.
 
I wouldn't use any water on any of the laminated or segmented shafts, Predators, OB's or whatever.

The separate pieces of wood might behave differently.

An alcohol wipe almost dry would be a better idea.
 
I chalk with the cue at least 45 degree angle so the chalk doesnt run straight down the shaft getting it filthy so quick and just use 3m 1500 when it does. After drinking one pop, my hands get so gummy that my
cue must think im sniffin glue or something. I have to stick with bottled
water in tornaments.
 
I have tried all the tricks when it comes to chalking:
-Gripping the cue around it's joint section and just applying the chalk without touching the shaft
-Angle the cue while I chalk
-Switched hands while I chalk
-Glove
-Cleaning my hands A LOT

All the tricks has not helped me anything in the chalk stained shaft part. I was at one time washing my hands so often that I had to use a moisturizing cream to stop my hands from getting wounded. Then I jumped on the gloves, which I have worn out 3 of.

Anyway, using alcohol on a laminated shaft is something I would not like to try, simply because I think the glue who holds them together might get hurt.

I always clean the cue after I have played by using a micro fiber cloth and a pressure with my thumb.

However for customers, I guess I could try a really lightly damped cloth with alcohol in the lathe and then burnish the shaft directly afterwards. In this case the alcohol would not get time to go in to the shaft and do any harm, since the heat from burnishing would evaporate the alcohol and reduce the "working time" the liquid has on the shaft.

I would do a test run on my next customer.

How about cue wax?
What is actually cue wax? I have read about so many finishing techniques for wood workers involving black bison wax,chestnut woodwax 22, shestnut woodturners stick and what ever. What is so special about cue wax? Is there a special mix every one could use or is there a company making this product?

I have never used it and is pretty skeptical, but if this is something to use I would get hold of something.

N
 
cleaning laminated shafts

I use a Magic Eraser dampened lightly with water, squeeze it out good. As far as the laminations go, most laminated shafts that I take in already have raised laminations that need to be worked out anyway. Rarely do I get one without raised laminations. It is the nature of the beast, so to speak. In fact, I am considering like an extra $5 to clean them over a standard maple shaft. I think water is fine, afterall that is what the tree drank before it became a pool cue. As Blackheart said, burnish the moisture out with a dry rag(which should pop out most small dings) and run the shaft in your hand at high speed to dry it out or feel if you still have moisture deposit. 600, 1000, 2000. Sealer, 2000 and I have a special sauce as a final application and they are gorgeous. Plain old brown paper towel will burnish them back to new.
 
trey said:
Does anyone use micro-burnishing films?
Click to expand...
I've used Nick Varners product, Nick's Edge a Micro-Grit Film. After cleaning with a Magic Eraser damp with isopropyl alcohol 91%. Using the micro film afterwards. Leaves the shaft very smooth. I am completly satisfied with NV product.........Charlie D
 
trey said:
Does anyone use micro-burnishing films?
Click to expand...


I used to but I switched to micro mesh cloth.... just because I wanted to try it. I still carry some in my wallett.

Micro burnishing films are abrasive and take wood off, just like sandpaper, so be careful and use the finest grit ones most of the time. A couple swipes with the green or yellow and then burnish with leather or the brown paper towel trick.
 
cleaning shafts

Good morning,
In my opinion, care must be given to how much "moisture" is used and how "fast" it is removed by wiping or "burnishing". The glues used in the shaft lamination processes are somewhat water soluble. Over time, if one is not careful, the water will dissolve the glue slowly and possibly soften the hit or even cause de-lamination of the shaft (cracks along the seams) that cue repairman see on a limited basis.

I believe washing your hands frequently and carefully chalking your cue at a severe angle will keep your cue much cleaner and require shaft cleaning less often. Wiping your cue shaft vigorously, after play, with a clean "dry" cloth will remove most of the chalk and keep your case cleaner also. Wiping the cue shaft during play with a "dry" clean cloth frequently, as the pros do, keeps it smooth as a 'baby's butt".

Cleaning should be performed by a "professional" cue repair person or cuemaker that already understands these principals, IMO.
Tom Gedris, Triple Cross Cues:cool:
 
I am against using liquid cleaners by hand. If you can't spin it on a lathe to use the slight friction heat to dry it out it can often leave the grain open. And like mentioned earlier it is a bigger problem on laminated shafts. But when used properly on a lathe the shaft cleaner I have used for almost 20 years gives no problems on laminated shafts or any other type. I have seen some cleaners that caused problems, but I quit using them real fast and went back to what I know works.
 
when I clean my shafts on a lathe, I use the typical 1000-1500, then hit it with HUT wood wax, then buff it out. While playing, I'll wash my hands about every 45 mins, using the papertowels I dried my hands with to 'burnish" the wax some more. I've played with the same old school non-laminate shaft for 10+ years, and other than losing almost a full MM in dia. over the years, it's as good as the day it arrived with my Alex Brick. And the ivory polishes up beautifully as well.
 
Shaft cleaning

I also used the wash my hands and use the same paper towel that I used to dry my hands to wipe cue followed by a dry paper towel to burnish and it has always worked well. Always use a good sanding sealer when building them and it keeps some of the chalk out.
 
money works

30-40 yrs ago we use to use $100 bill. this actually worked pretty good. if you didn't have a hun at the time the cleanest bill you had would work.

M.C.
 
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