Why Southwest?

Bamacues said:
Southwest cues are one of the most consistent cues on the market, IMO. Certainly, the Franklin era cues are the most sought out and, like most cues of that era, have better, older shaft wood, but that is a problem with everyone. Southwest cues remain in high demand due to consistently high quality of materials, fit, finish and playability. They do have a compound taper which is a part of the reason they play the way they do. To say that 50% of Southwest cues are warped is ludicrous. I own and have owned several Southwest cues over the years, and I have others on order. None of the ones I have personally owned have ever been crooked. They all played great, to me, but if you don't care for a stiff hit, leave them alone. Like any peice of wood, they will certainly get a wobble in them if not kept in the proper conditions. Ask any Southwest cue owner who had had his/her cue for a while. I believe you will find they are very satisfied with it. It is not a marketing ploy of any kind that makes them highly desirable and collectible, it is the quality of the product.
Joe

I can only speak for the one I have. After talking with a guy who has owned about 20 of them, I went on a search for his recommended SW: pre-date Franklin with either Alves or PH forearm. I found one, and I love it - stiff with a lot of feel. It is ugly IMO, since I much prefer a classic 4-veneer with BEM forearm. The butt is straight as an arrow, shaft has a little wobble. Regardless, it is an amazing player. I sold a bunch of cues recently, in part so that I can keep this one.
 
Yep..

paulybatz said:
most of their cues are naturally weighted...and to manipulate or change the weight in any way would change the integrity and hit of the cue...there is a science to SW cue construction, another reason why they bring so much $$$

Pauly is correct. They go to a lot of work to get the balance point, etc exactly where they want it to be. I have never seen one that had a removable weight bolt. I think that if you drilled and tapped a southwest and put a bolt in it, you could just about use it for kindling when you wanted to sell it.
Joe
 
Really? Damn.

I was thinking of giving this cue another chance. It has got a really nice hit. But i prefer a lighter cue.

Ok. Who wants a cheap SW! Kidding. I am still looking for a buyer or a trader. a lot of answer to some queries i have posted in this thread. if you have more please PM me.

Best regards
Chris
 
SCCues said:
I've owned a couple of South West cues and I sold them because I wanted to try something else with a predator shaft. I wasn't that impressed with the way my South West cues played, but others are very impressed with them so it's up to the individual whether they like them or not.

The weight bolts in a South West cue are epoxied in and cannot be changed easily or at all.

When you look at these pictures I know that you'll agree with me that I made a big mistake selling my 2 cues!!!!!!!! They would be worth much more now than what I sold them for, but I had no idea they would go up in value like they've done in the last couple of years.

dsc00838kj6.jpg

dsc00712ht1.jpg



Hi,

The 2nd cue shown is still in perfect shape and plays well! ;-)
Greetings from Germany.
Markus
 
01rkclassic said:
couldn't agree more,i must be one of them becouse i have both a harley and southwest and love em both!
Nice road king. Where in Tennessee were you when the pic was taken?

I have a plain birdseye JF SW that I just picked up and it is a great player as well. They are hard to beat but thry are definitely not for the low deflection crowd.
 
You should contact Roy Malott @ IndyQ.com or Cornerstonecustomcue.com - They both have great knowledge in dealing with Southwests - and more than likely can give you the retail, wholesale type values of the cue. I personally believe red and black is a popular color in the Southwest. When Cornerstone saw mine at a tourney in OH a little over a year ago - he was trying awfully hard to get it...said he loved that color combination.
 
MasterClass said:
Does anyone knows for sure or have actually seen and remove a weight bolt from a Southwest cue? Can someone like proficient do it or do i have to send it back to southwest?
yes i have personally seen the 'bolt' deep inside... buddy had drexler take 1/2 ounce from his cue to match his playing weight.... i surely whinced when i saw that big drill go into the cue and saw the shavings fly LOL
i don't think it's really a 'weight bolt' as more than the bolt that holds the butt and handle together.... be it that there's enough of the bolt to drill out,...
but it came out ok :-)
 
Ktown D said:
Nice road king. Where in Tennessee were you when the pic was taken?

I have a plain birdseye JF SW that I just picked up and it is a great player as well. They are hard to beat but thry are definitely not for the low deflection crowd.


we were on 25w near lake city tenn.it was a great trip,went down to myrtle beach and back to dayton oh. in one week end.they used to have a pool hall there that had one table,no balls or cues not even a cube of chalk.

don't mention the "D" word in an open forum the preditor police will hunt you down.LOL!
 
01rkclassic said:
we were on 25w near lake city tenn.it was a great trip,went down to myrtle beach and back to dayton oh. in one week end.they used to have a pool hall there that had one table,no balls or cues not even a cube of chalk.

don't mention the "D" word in an open forum the preditor police will hunt you down.LOL!
I live about an hour from there. That is a really nice place to ride, beautiful country. I thought you might have been in Gatlinburg wheeling through the park. I have been in the little pool room in Lake City although it has been many years. You might know this but you could have stopped in any of the small towns due north of there into Lexington and gotten into some big action. There are many good players in that area of the world.
 
Taper roll and other B.S.

ribdoner said:
The BEST way to tell if ANY butt, esp. those with compound tapers, are straight is by spinning on a lathe.:)

If it doesnt roll flat, It isnt straight. the taper excuse is just that,an excuse! anyone who stops and thinks a minute will realize that no matter how its tapererd it should still all be the same all the way around and if it wobbles, It will wobble on a lathe. I was handed that same B.S. line when I was looking at a new ray schuler cue once. I didnt correct the shop owner, But at least I knew not to trust his word, or knowledge to be accurate after that.

P.S southwests are decent cues, But way over priced. they must collect more hourly than ANY other cuemaker on earth does. Considering what they get for a plain cue whithout inlays! and medium level quality, But yet, there are a lot better cue makers out there. Its their good luck to have the Koolaid drinkers on their side. You cant blame them for that I guess?
 
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Cuemaster98 said:
The hit of the new SW is not very consistent but the franklin era cue all play amazing. I had owned several newer SW (2002 and 2005) that I've sold because the cues were not straight. One of them had a slight roll in the middle of the cue and the other had a roll in the forearm.

Most of the SW cues that I come accross has a wobble in them..and everybody tell me its the european taper or compound taper is what causes the roll. It really hard to find a SW that is straight....and a lot guys sell and advertise that it's straight when it really not. I'm maybe picking up a 9 pointer soon and I hope it will be straight and play good. It the hotest stick in Taiwan right now, I think over 50% of the Pro player play with SW cues.

Duc.
I noticed that in a SW once also,slight roll at the joint,kid sold it for $1500 because of it.:cool:
 
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jayman said:
If it doesnt roll flat, It isnt straight. the taper excuse is just that,an excuse! anyone who stops and thinks a minute will realize that no matter how its tapererd it should still all be the same all the way around
Nope--variable wrap thickness CAN make a STRAIGHT compound tapered butt roll "not flat"

jayman said:
and if it wobbles, It will wobble on a lathe.
Nope--see above, but, if it wobbles on a lathe then it's NOT straight or it's not centered correctly.

jayman said:
I was handed that same B.S. line when I was looking at a new ray schuler cue once. I didnt correct the shop owner, But at least I knew not to trust his word, or knowledge to be accurate after that
Prior to reading this do you think you knew enough to correct him?;)

jayman said:
P.S southwests are decent cues, But way over priced.
They are what they are and the prices they sell for are real and not the result of group/clique hype. If you search these forums you'll find many who frequent here also feel they are the best players, but, I'm sure they're not for everyone.

ONE MAN's TRASH IS ANOTHER MAN's TREASURE:)
 
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yea right

ribdoner said:
.


jayman said:
If it doesnt roll flat, It isnt straight. the taper excuse is just that,an excuse! anyone who stops and thinks a minute will realize that no matter how its tapererd it should still all be the same all the way around
Nope--variable wrap thickness CAN make a STRAIGHT compound tapered butt roll "not flat"

jayman said:
and if it wobbles, It will wobble on a lathe.
Nope--see above, but, if it wobbles on a lathe then it's NOT straight or it's not centered correctly.

jayman said:
I was handed that same B.S. line when I was looking at a new ray schuler cue once. I didnt correct the shop owner, But at least I knew not to trust his word, or knowledge to be accurate after that
Prior to reading this do you think you knew enough to correct him?;)

jayman said:
P.S southwests are decent cues, But way over priced.
They are what they are and the prices they sell for are real and not the result of group/clique hype. If you search these forums you'll find many who frequent here also feel they are the best players, but, I'm sure they're not for everyone.

ONE MAN's TRASH IS ANOTHER MAN's TREASURE:)

You dont know what you'r talkink about, sorry, but if it lays flat and you turn it say 1/4 turn, and it wont lay flat. It has an arch! I.E NOT STRAIGHT!
YOU ARE WRONG! So be honest, Is you'r sw warped?
I dont care how mant dips or curves they machine into a round flat object, when it is straight it will not wobble!! the high part will stay on the flat surface, and the low spot will stay EXACTLY the same distance from the flat surface.
By the way, I did not call them trash, Just way over priced for the work involved in construction, and the over all quality of the end result compared to several othe cue makers, who have tighter splices, more even points, better finish quality more inlays, etc... SW Cues are not bad cues, But they formed a loyal following early on that enabled them to name their price at a lot more than any cuemaker of same or better quality is able to ask for something as good or better. give me a joss west or a motty or a martinez first any time. better cues, more work for the money.
 
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Hey cuemakers, do you know how to make a cue that will wobble right off the lathe, If it is made well on quality equipment? PLEASE CHIME IN.
 
JAYMAN,



My SW's are straight! On the rare occasions I've gotten cues that weren't straight they were returned to the seller and, on more than one occasion, I educated the seller on how to determine straightness applicable to a compound tapered butt.

Why do you think some cuemakers prefer compound taper butts? Is it because they wanted to plagarize masters like ERNIE and G.SZAM?

What is your cue of choice?

Where do you live? I'm in MEMPHIS and would enjoy getting togethor to compare our cue acumen.
 
You dont know what you'r talkink about, sorry, but if it lays flat and you turn it say 1/4 turn, and it wont lay flat. It has an arch! I.E NOT STRAIGHT!

If the wrap or wrap groove has a high spot, it might wobble on the table but it's still straight.
If it's wrapless, it's not supposed to wobble unless the finish is off on one side or more ( really badly ).
Really, roll the cue on top of the rail ( below joint collar resting on the rail; not the joint collar as sometimes they are not PERFECTLY round to sanding to match the shafts ) if the ferrule doesn't wobble, the cue is straight.
I don't know what the compound taper has to do with rolling the cue.
The cue would still be a bunch of different cones.
How many angles are there on a SW?
One for the forearm, one for the handle AND the sleeve plus the shaft?
 
JoeyInCali said:
You dont know what you'r talkink about, sorry, but if it lays flat and you turn it say 1/4 turn, and it wont lay flat. It has an arch! I.E NOT STRAIGHT!

If the wrap or wrap groove has a high spot, it might wobble on the table but it's still straight.
If it's wrapless, it's not supposed to wobble unless the finish is off on one side or more ( really badly ).
Really, roll the cue on top of the rail ( below joint collar resting on the rail; not the joint collar as sometimes they are not PERFECTLY round to sanding to match the shafts ) if the ferrule doesn't wobble, the cue is straight.
I don't know what the compound taper has to do with rolling the cue.
The cue would still be a bunch of different cones.
How many angles are there on a SW?
One for the forearm, one for the handle AND the sleeve plus the shaft?
Thank You! Tapers dont cause wobble!! Only something further OUT From one side of the center than its opposite side can cause it to WOBBLE! Maybe its something in the KOOLAID LoL.

YEA!! FREE JIMBO ALREADY.
 
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[QUOYE=jayman]but if it lays flat and you turn it say 1/4 turn, and it wont lay flat. It has an arch! I.E NOT STRAIGHT!

When is the nose of a compound tapered butt flat on a table???:rolleyes:

Could it be that the nose is still off the table after a 1/4 turn is because it's a compound tapered butt?
 
jayman said:
Thank You! Tapers dont cause wobble!! Only something further OUT From one side of the center than its opposite side can cause it to WOBBLE! Maybe its something in the KOOLAID LoL.

YEA!! FREE JIMBO ALREADY.

Or something like VARIABLE wrap thickness:)

BTW--MOTTEY, STROUD and MARTINEZ all make nice cues. ENJOY!!!
 
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