With BIH is there a optimum distance to positio the cueball?

[alphadog]

So lets say a object ball is right above the foot spot with a another ball blocking it from being pocketed anywhere but the right corner. There is also a cluster you want to break up along the right rail almost parallel to the object ball. Now you can place the cueball on the line you need to pocket the ball breakup the cluster,but should you place the cueball 2 inches or 20 inches from the object ball?
Is there a ideal distance, physically , or is it a mental - whatever you are most comfotable with , dilemma?

 

[Bob Jewett]

Longer than the length of your usual forward follow-through. I would put the cue ball about 12" from the OB for that shot. I think it depends on what you're comfortable with. I've noticed that most lower level league players will put the cue ball back 3-4 feet, I suppose because that's the shape they usually have. It also depends on the shot.

 

[ChrisinNC]

So lets say a object ball is right above the foot spot with a another ball blocking it from being pocketed anywhere but the right corner. There is also a cluster you want to break up along the right rail almost parallel to the object ball. Now you can place the cueball on the line you need to pocket the ball breakup the cluster,but should you place the cueball 2 inches or 20 inches from the object ball?
Is there a ideal distance, physically , or is it a mental - whatever you are most comfotable with , dilemma?

Whatever you are most comfortable with and depending on the amount of cut angle you want to give yourself on the shot, to give you the best chance to carom the cue ball, with control, in to the ideal location to break up the cluster and still leave you a shot. I would rarely set the cue ball more than 12 to 16 inches away from the object ball, when I have a ball-in-hand.

 

[Jimmorrison]

Longer than the length of your usual forward follow-through. I would put the cue ball about 12" from the OB for that shot. I think it depends on what you're comfortable with. I've noticed that most lower level league players will put the cue ball back 3-4 feet, I suppose because that's the shape they usually have. It also depends on the shot.

Other then the knock, this is a really good reply. Adopt it.

 

[ideologist]

Less than 9' away

Joking aside, put it in a place that lets you pocket the ball and then land perfectly on the next ball

 

[Geosnookery]

This is a great question.

I’ll address ball in hand in general. It depends very much on who I am playing. If a good player then I need ‘to go for it’. Use the opportunity to win the game. If just a decent player, especially in 8 ball, then I just need to leave the table with the advantage.

I use spin on most shots so I’d have to see the scenario to judge the distance from the object ball. Breaking up clusters is nearly always an ‘unknown’ outcome. It’s easy to snooker yourself. I’d say a foot or so most of the time. Any closer and it’s difficult to judge speed and thus get a weak tap. The Worse scenario is to try too much,miss the pot and break up the cluster for your opponent.

 

[Swighey]

I would say not too close and not too far. I know that's vague but essentially it should be whatever you feel comfortable with.

 

[straightline]

Optimal distance may have a large tolerance zone or none at all. It depends on the dimensions of the shot in question, the spread of speed , and of course your abilities. You may often prefer to place the cueball close to the object ball for an unmissable carom and easy breakout. You may sometimes need the cueball to be hooked up to the cloth with lots of speed. This would demand you place the cueball 4 or more feet out. No set rules...

 

[brigeton]

For me usually about a foot away but on some shots further away so I don't have to stretch too far. I certainly don't want to use a bridge so I can keep the cue ball close to the object ball.

 

[mark187]

12-18 inches depending on how I get my bridge hand down

 

[ShootingArts]

With no other considerations but pocketing the ball and breaking a cluster, probably sixteen to twenty inches. I never like to feel jammed up to my work. If playing eight ball or one pocket I am usually picking the toughest shot I think I can make or the shot to most benefit me so I might not get my favorite distance from the object ball. I would usually rather shoot comfortably and without the bridge even if it means a less than ideal distance for the shot.

Ball in hand is the perfect time to clear up problems or make a big move in one pocket. However, this thread is very interesting because it reveals everyone's optimum comfort zone. Sixteen to twenty lets me get a good look at my work and stroke freely. Twelve to thirty still works nicely, unless I want to blast into that cluster, then I would rather be long than short and I really don't want to get under sixteen inches. I can make six inches or less work, but I don't like to. A side note, most shoot too hard breaking out clusters. Getting a little closer might help me resist that temptation.

Great thread starter AlphaDog!

Hu

 

[alphadog]

I have a friend who almost always puts whitey 4inches from the object ball. I told him I think you can see the big picture better from 6 inches or more. He thought about it and then agreed with my thinking. If he is playing and rolls into 4inch shape he does have plenty of experience ☺

 

[Patrick Johnson]

Longer than the length of your usual forward follow-through. I would put the cue ball about 12" from the OB for that shot. I think it depends on what you're comfortable with. I've noticed that most lower level league players will put the cue ball back 3-4 feet, I suppose because that's the shape they usually have. It also depends on the shot.

Here's one way it depends on the shot: to get full follow on the CB you either have to (1) shoot from a short distance and hit about 40% above center or (2) shoot from far enough away that the CB picks up full follow spin on its way to the OB.

pj
chgo

 

[iusedtoberich]

I go for about 1 diamond distance with BIH. Sometimes a bit less.

Only longer if there is a reach issue.

 

[Texas Carom Club]

Less than 9' away

Joking aside, put it in a place that lets you pocket the ball and then land perfectly on the next ball

It Really doesn't need to be any more complicated than that

Simplicity

 

[thenuke]

I would say not too close and not too far. I know that's vague but essentially it should be whatever you feel comfortable with.

I would like to add to this, do not overcut and do not undercut the shot !

 

[bbb]

I go for about 1 diamond distance with BIH. Sometimes a bit less.

Only longer if there is a reach issue..........

.......me too

 

[fastone371]

A side note, most shoot too hard breaking out clusters. Getting a little closer might help me resist that temptation.

Great thread starter AlphaDog!

Hu

That is so common, even higher level players are guilty of this. They seem to forget that the cue ball will slide farther along the tangent line as speed is increased before any spin takes effect. With BIH I try to break out clusters using only stun shots because the cue ball is very predictable. I cant say in inches what the ideal distance is between cue ball and object ball but I want enough distance so that I can see everything involved in my "shot picture".

 

[ChrisinNC]

So lets say a object ball is right above the foot spot with a another ball blocking it from being pocketed anywhere but the right corner. There is also a cluster you want to break up along the right rail almost parallel to the object ball. Now you can place the cueball on the line you need to pocket the ball breakup the cluster,but should you place the cueball 2 inches or 20 inches from the object ball?
Is there a ideal distance, physically , or is it a mental - whatever you are most comfotable with , dilemma?

Slightly related to your original question, I’m often amazed when a player has ball-in-hand and the ball he is next shooting at (when playing 9-ball) it is deep in a corner pocket, and they set the cue ball a considerable distance away from the object ball. These shots are often very tricky, obviously not to make, but to get the cue ball where you need it. If you are slightly off, it’s very easy to unintentionally catch either the point / pocket facing material which results in a very unpredictable rebound.

In this situation, I almost always place the cue ball as close as I can absolutely get to the object ball/corner (as close as 1/4”) and generally hit away from the object ball, thinly slicing it which will avoid the points and give you a much better chance to control your speed for your shape on the next ball.

 

[Bob Jewett]

... I’m often amazed when a player has ball-in-hand and the ball he is next shooting at (when playing 9-ball) it is deep in a corner pocket, and they set the cue ball a considerable distance away from the object ball. These shots are often very tricky, obviously not to make, but to get the cue ball where you need it. ...

That's the sort of thing I meant by my snarky response above. Many players never think about "what is the best possible position for the cue ball" when they have ball in hand. They throw away significant advantage by taking an OK but not best placement.

Another example is when the OB is close to but not on a cushion and the cue ball has to move a ways after the shot. You would rarely play to leave the cue ball on the cushion, but that is often the best if you have ball in hand.