wood joint rings

desi2960

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
i have a all maple cue and want to use some type of wood for the joint rings. i have tried soaking maple in super glue, i have tried wood hardner, also thin 2 part epoxy treated wood. and i am really not happy with any of the results.
i also tried pie shaped laminated maple. any ideas ???

thanks chuck starkey
 
i have a all maple cue and want to use some type of wood for the joint rings. i have tried soaking maple in super glue, i have tried wood hardner, also thin 2 part epoxy treated wood. and i am really not happy with any of the results.
i also tried pie shaped laminated maple. any ideas ???

thanks chuck starkey

?????????

What exactly are you not happy about?

By 'rings' do you mean a trim ring, like a stich ring, or are you
referring to the joint collars?

It sounds like you want them to be harder, do they have to be Maple?

A bit more detail on what you want to end up with should make the
question easier to answer.
 
Last edited:
better info

they can be any wood and i want to use them for joint collars. i want to try to make a cue using only wood and the leather tip. i made one before with only 4 parts, the butt and pin was one piece of wood, the shaft, the tip and tip pad completed the cue.
i am afraid if i do not use some type of collars the wood might split with any side pressure on the joint area. i am not trying to reinvent the wheel, just using more wood and fewer man made materials.
 
Bore a .775'-.800" hole in the wood collar and glue in a phenolic joint sleeve that has been turned down to fit the hole. Make your joint rings from the glued up sleeve. I've been doing this for a lot of years and I don't know of any failures. Make sure you use only well seasoned wood. Without the phenolic sleeve you are taking a chance.
 
I have used cocobola and it works great and also purpleheart too for butcaps and joints on a purpleheart dufferin conversion ( the first cue I sold) with a holly hoppe ring and matching holly joint rings. I would love to learn your wooden pin process one of these days as your cues hit great and the big pin looks nice. One of our fellow AZ'ers had a avatar with a Scruggs with a cocobola butcap and ivory hoppe ring for a few years that was the coolest look ever and of course the grain in the cap and butt lined up dead on but seperated by the ivory ring. Leonard
 
?????????

What exactly are you not happy about?

By 'rings' do you mean a trim ring, like a stich ring, or are you
referring to the joint collars?

It sounds like you want them to be hardeer, do they have to be Maple?

A bit more detail on what you want to end up with should make the
question easier to answer.

Hi,

I think he is having trouble with cross contamination while sanding. I use wooden rings exclusively and I know it is very hard to keep the maple squeaky clean even with air pressure if you are using darker woods.

I now soak my maple ring in deft lacquer sealer. I blow air on the ring area when it is going past the saw blade on my saw tapering machine. As soon as the cue comes off the machine, I use electrical tape to segregate the ring area, then drop thin CA in the rings without touching the surface to avoid bleeding over.

Then sand with air real carefully. It is real tricky to get perfect maple veneer ring to be absolutely clean in the end. Because of this problem I have been using a lot of fiber rings and fiber veneer sheets with white or black Juma.

If anyone has a better process that is 100% please weigh in.

Rick G

Here are some pics of some of my lower end cues with wood rings before the new process using CA and a Lacquer Sealer soak. The open grain of the maple veneer rings want to discolor after sanding. The problem is as you turn the cue the end grain gets a little darker from the contamination. The butt ring at the bottom has a red veneer rings, white fiber rings with the Juma center and there is no problem. Cocobolo Center ring tends to darken the white maple.
IMG_3532.jpg

IMG_3528.jpg

Juma center with red veneer rings and white fiber makes for good sanding.
IMG_3533.jpg

Here is a pic of the ring on a shaft that is wet sanded before buffing. The maple appears to be relatively clean but the next photo of the matching butt shows some darkening which is magnified by the clear coat.
IMG_3538.jpg

IMG_3536.jpg

All of the darker grain color on the white maple is from the cocobolo transfer. With my new process it is about 90% better which gives a slight patina that looks good. Unfortunatly I do not have any pic a finished products with the new process as all of those cues have been shipped.
IMG_3529.jpg
 
Last edited:
Perfect maple rings are easy. Just have the maple dowel impregnated with clear acrylic resin before you make the rings. I've been doing it for years and forgot about how hard it used to be to keep them clean. As a bonus, you can cut them down to as small as .005" and they'll stay clean and together.
 
Perfect maple rings are easy. Just have the maple dowel impregnated with clear acrylic resin before you make the rings. I've been doing it for years and forgot about how hard it used to be to keep them clean. As a bonus, you can cut them down to as small as .005" and they'll stay clean and together.

Thanks Paul,

I wish I was to the point where I forgot about this difficulty.

I am all ears, who do you use for this process. Or do you do it yourself with a vacuum bag or something like that.

Any info about the process and material would be appreciated.

Thanks for sharing.

Rick
 
Last edited:
they can be any wood and i want to use them for joint collars. i want to try to make a cue using only wood and the leather tip. i made one before with only 4 parts, the butt and pin was one piece of wood, the shaft, the tip and tip pad completed the cue.
i am afraid if i do not use some type of collars the wood might split with any side pressure on the joint area. i am not trying to reinvent the wheel, just using more wood and fewer man made materials.

OK then.

As has already been posted, most any of the tropical exotics could be
used. Paul's idea of a phenolic sleve sounds like good advice, tho it does
violate your wood only requirement.

FWIW - I replaced a failed-to-hold-glue SS joint collar with
Indian Rosewood 2 decades ago - it is still doing just fine.

Dale
 
Last edited:
Back
Top