I miss read your original post. I get you now!!
so the used one did the trick, what kind of maple is it?
At least you kept the one, that worked for you.
Wood or carbon?
- Thread starter Bob Jewett
- Start date
so the used one did the trick, what kind of maple is it?
At least you kept the one, that worked for you.
People have asked me why I don't use a cf shaft. I tell them I've played with 3 different cf shafts and discovered that they don't play any different than my Mezz shaft. So there's no point or reason for me to make the switch.
However, I've seen weaker players go from a standard cheap cue with an old-school maple shaft (non-ld) to a cf shaft and almost immediately start pocketing balls more consistently.
It's not a mystery. There's a lot of guesswork when it comes to compensating aim to account for english (due to cb squirt). Less squirt makes the game a bit easier. Plus, slightly miss-hitting the vertical axis of the cb when no english is intended isn't as detrimental when the cb isn't squirting offline so much. An ob that misses the pocket due to an accidental 3° cb squirt will be more likely to hit the pocket if the accidental cb squirt is only 1 or 2 degrees or less.
However, I've seen weaker players go from a standard cheap cue with an old-school maple shaft (non-ld) to a cf shaft and almost immediately start pocketing balls more consistently.
It's not a mystery. There's a lot of guesswork when it comes to compensating aim to account for english (due to cb squirt). Less squirt makes the game a bit easier. Plus, slightly miss-hitting the vertical axis of the cb when no english is intended isn't as detrimental when the cb isn't squirting offline so much. An ob that misses the pocket due to an accidental 3° cb squirt will be more likely to hit the pocket if the accidental cb squirt is only 1 or 2 degrees or less.
dendweller
Well-known member
Guess that's one of the arguments for cf. As long as the manufacturing is good and consistent you should be able to get a couple shafts that are consistent. Wood is funny like that.
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
They're pocketing balls better because of the low deflection factor, not because it's carbon fiber...
LD shafts can have quite a positive effect on one's game. No gimmicks there.
I guess very few players know how to use CCB and play that way. If you aren't using spin on every shot, you just aren't a real
player. Used to be that you learned what the tendencies of the cue are with an offset for english and factor it in. Or think more about the angles and position for running racks so you don't have to keep spinning balls around the table. Makes you wonder how Mosconi did what he did and all the other old timers with a branch from a tree. From what I've witnessed over the years is a
hack player remains a hack player regardless of what cue/shaft is in his hands until he puts in many hours and years of grinding it
out on the table as well as coping with the nerves factor against tough experienced opponents. When those nerves kick in, weird whacky things can happen and neither a low deflection factor, CF, or $500 shaft is going to mean diddly squat.
Those who play alone on a home table or playing out with friends for funsies or beers will ever know what nerves can do to
the game unless there are stakes or consequences at the end.
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I don't think the tennis racquet (or golf clubs) theory works in this case because the energy on the hit with pool is going into the grain and not cross grain like with a tennis racquet.
Been playing with carbon since they first came out and have all three, 12,9, 12,4 11,8, revo shafts then I picked up my trusty Runde yesterday with its original shaft made by him and decided to play with it instead of the 12,4 and it felt so amazing and in my opinion at the end of the day I didn't shoot one bit worse. Nor did I notice that I had to shoot any harder at all to get big follows or draws. So I don't get the carbon is more efficient argument.
But in my opinion there's something missing with carbon.
Maybe it was the whole package and not just the shaft that made it feel so great.
I would after all consider Runde a much better maker than the Predator factory with their cnc machines and inferior woods.
I like the carbons only because they don't really ding, scratch, or warp.
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
LD shafts make hack players better shots too.
The lower deflection compensates for their terrible off-center cueball hits and horrible follow throughs by not over- exaggerating the deflection of their poor strokes as much as a regular non-ld shaft would.
The first thing I recommend to players who want to make their shooting more accurate, buy a good ld shaft-- wood or cf.
I recommend a straight stroke first
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
You can only improve the average player's natural ability/stroke only to a point lol. Most folks don't have a pro stroke and never will.
The ld shafts add a little more accuracy to ALL LEVELS of strokes. That's why they're so popular.
Many amateurs jumping from a non-ld maple shaft to a carbon shaft think the CARBON is what's making them better. It's not. It's the ld properties.
If you're serious about improving your pool game, get a TRUE (not pure-x lol) ld shaft and build off it.
This is very well put!! This is a great example of what high performance is supposed to give you, much of this, takes a long time. Especially playing under the up most pressure.
Practice helps.knowing how you will feel, and also even more importantly, knowing how your cue will react. What ever you play with. Like you say, it don't mean nothing, if you can't use it!
My experience, If your use too a certain type of shaft, you tend to know how thay will play. Like I can feel almost straight away if, I'm picking up a decent one.I only play with solid maple. Anything that feels very whippy. I know the adjustment will be a lot more, than the ones I like, which feel alot more stiffer. And it's pretty much instant, I can pick up any like that, and I know I'll be fine.
This is definitely what you see. It's all the rage at the moment. But actually knowing how to use it, that's something else. Knowing how to improve your game is the key.
I feel the same as you about the ones I use. Very old maple can be very reliable.
If your on the right track, you can always get better. There's always, never a quick fix!!
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
True, but switching to equipment that makes using English more accurate and easier helps a lot.
I shot with a high deflection (McDermott, then Schon) maple shaft for over 35 years.
Switched to a ld wood shaft and my game improved even more. About 40 fargo points.
The only one, I would like to try, is the kielwood. Ld properties quite high I believe.
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
Haven't tried a torrified shaft. I've heard they are lighter in general than other wood shafts (due to being baked). I shoot with a forward-balanced cue, so that might not fit me.
I prefer the lighter color of my Predator Vantage laminated shafts too, easier to sight in darker pool halls.
As far as ld, I doubt they're as low def as the high-end laminated ones such as mine and the Z3.
But from a hobbyist/collectors standpoint, they are different indeed!
You can have kielwood shaft heavier than your Vantage shaft .
Lamination has nothing to with deflection.
Laminated shafts can not be as smooth as one piece shafts.
Kielwood shafts stay smoother than any wooden shaft.
Woodshaft
Do what works for YOU!
I know all this my friend lol.
I was tongue-in-cheek about the laminated part. I actually refer to my shaft as my "plywood" shaft.
That said, laminated shafts offer better radial consistency than any solid wood shaft, even kielwood.
Torrified shafts obviously aren't "the bomb-diggitty" in the shaft market, don't see many pros using them (Justin Bergman does I think).
They are an interesting niche product for sure though.
If you like them, use them!
Radial consistency is BS marketing.
Most pros are paid to use products
There is not a huge production maker for kielwood shafts. They also cost a lot more to make than carbon fiber shafts .
I had a Bob Danielson laminated shaft that as smooth as any solid shaft. I tried K'wood and it was very light and made this funky 'doink' sound. Was not impressed at all.
not sure what a vantage shaft weighs, but what I've seen of kielwood shaft weight has deterred me from pursuing one
I thought the torrefaction process produces a lighter product- wondering how they can be heavier, and how heavy?