Work on GC1 sub-rails

realkingcobra

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I'm not going to say to much about this right now, I just wanted to post some pictures of some of the work I can now do to any kind of rails with my newly designed tooling. On these rails I had to replace the top of the sub-rail liner, as well as recut the bevel for the new Artemis cushions. Just take a look at how clean it's turning out already...and I'm not even done yet;)

Glen

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funny how much work is involved to replace that small portion of wood that was sanded off. Can't wait to get my tooling. You should come to Cali, weather beautiful.
 
Rails

realkingcobra said:
I'm not going to say to much about this right now, I just wanted to post some pictures of some of the work I can now do to any kind of rails with my newly designed tooling. On these rails I had to replace the top of the sub-rail liner, as well as recut the bevel for the new Artemis cushions. Just take a look at how clean it's turning out already...and I'm not even done yet;)

Glen

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Shopsmith & a router. A little sanding and presto. Nice job Glen. How about making a jig and selling it? Thanks, Ron
 
No shop smith, no router;) In these first 2 pictures I'm showing how I added the wood I took off to build back up the top of the sub-rail, because the top of the sub-rail had been belt sanded at a downward angle to meet the K66 cushions that were installed before. I glued the new wood to the top of the sub-rail, 1/4" thick, then I stapled through the strapping tape to hold the wood firmly in place until the glue dried over night. Once dry, I just pull off the strapping tape and remove all the staples at one time. I inserted a 3/4" x 5/16" feather strip standing up in the feather strip dado to give me a straight line back board to line up my add on wood, the removed it once I stapled my replacement wood in place.
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In this picture you can see how thick the replacement wood is, and how it lines up with the rest of the sub-rail.

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Then in this picture, I'm showing how I bring the thickness down to the correct sub-rail thickness of 1 11/16th's. I could have just completed all 4 passes removing the extra wood, but I wanted to show everyone how easy it was to take off the excess wood, so I just stopped short on each pass, to show a stair step of removal.

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Then in this picture, you can see how flush the add on wood is with the bevel of the sub-rail that I went back and re-cut the bevel again to flush up the added wood. Even though I'd already re-cut the bevel once, I just wanted to see how clean I could re-cut it again with my new tooling, and as you can see, it's clean as hell. Normally I'd just clean up the top of the sub-rail, add new wood, bring down to size, then re-cut the bevel just once and be done. And by the way, all the cutting is done with the rail bolted down to the slate;) so when I re-cut the cushion bevel, it's guaranteed to be in perfect relation to the playing surface of the slate this way, even on antiques;)

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Are you cutting out the top part of the subrail and adding the wood block or just adding the block then milling it down?
 
Dartman said:
Are you cutting out the top part of the subrail and adding the wood block or just adding the block then milling it down?
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I first remove the top 1/8th of the sub-rail with my tooling, then replace it so that I can get rid of the belt sanding that was done before and have a straight line at the top of the bevel so I can put my cushions back on straight.

Glen
 
tool

realkingcobra said:
I first remove the top 1/8th of the sub-rail with my tooling, then replace it so that I can get rid of the belt sanding that was done before and have a straight line at the top of the bevel so I can put my cushions back on straight.

Glen
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Rotozip maybe?
 
realkingcobra said:
Unless I tell someone about the tooling I'm using, no one has a chance in hell of figuring it out:D let alone how to modify it to work for recuting rail bevels.

Glen
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Hand planer and a lot of talent?

You might as sell subrails to replace the butchered ones.:eek:
 
Donny, i guessed i should have saved those junk rails that i had. I would imagine that this service will probably become very popular here in southern California for the people who want their k66 cushioned Gold Crowns redone to the proper spec k-55's
 
Travis3c said:
Donny, i guessed i should have saved those junk rails that i had. I would imagine that this service will probably become very popular here in southern California for the people who want their k66 cushioned Gold Crowns redone to the proper spec k-55's
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Why is there a problem with GC's with K66?
 
Travis3c said:
Donny, i guessed i should have saved those junk rails that i had. I would imagine that this service will probably become very popular here in southern California for the people who want their k66 cushioned Gold Crowns redone to the proper spec k-55's
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well they would have been good test rails, because I remember seeing some other issues in the pictures.
 
OTLB said:
Why is there a problem with GC's with K66?
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the problem isn't that there's K66 cushions on the rail. The problem is that the cushion was set low and the top of the sub-rail was sanded down to match the cushion. And they don't play right. What Glen's doing is restoring the sub-rail back to stock and correcting any inconsistancy that may have come from Brunswick. Or, taking off the K66 and cutting the correct angles for K66 and then reinstalling the cushion. There's hundred's of tables like this in CA.
 
sdbilliards said:
the problem isn't that there's K66 cushions on the rail. The problem is that the cushion was set low and the top of the sub-rail was sanded down to match the cushion. And they don't play right. What Glen's doing is restoring the sub-rail back to stock and correcting any inconsistancy that may have come from Brunswick. Or, taking off the K66 and cutting the correct angles for K66 and then reinstalling the cushion. There's hundred's of tables like this in CA.
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As always Donny, you know me toooooooo well;) because you hit the nail right on the head:)

Glen
 
sdbilliards said:
the problem isn't that there's K66 cushions on the rail. The problem is that the cushion was set low and the top of the sub-rail was sanded down to match the cushion. And they don't play right. What Glen's doing is restoring the sub-rail back to stock and correcting any inconsistancy that may have come from Brunswick. Or, taking off the K66 and cutting the correct angles for K66 and then reinstalling the cushion. There's hundred's of tables like this in CA.
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I recall reading a few posts in the past that said those K66 GC tables play great.
Even some controversial discussions involving a certain snake guy and an E-son guy.

Wonder if the rest of the country has this "problem" or if it's just a calaforny thing.
 
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