The larger the radius (.016) the smoother the cut regardless if it's turning or facing. The smaller the radius (.004) is better for tight cuts such as when facing or turning to a 90 deg. corner as when turning a tenon.
Dick
WTB: indexable inserts (TCGT type)
- Thread starter Vahmurka
- Start date
The larger the radius (.016) the smoother the cut regardless if it's turning or facing. The smaller the radius (.004) is better for tight cuts such as when facing or turning to a 90 deg. corner as when turning a tenon.
Dick
Thanks Dick! So the .50 would be better for tight corners and the .52 would cut smoother. Just was not really sure what worked best. I use a diamond shape cutter and they offer the .50, .51 and .52 and was not sure what to get. Didn't know if I would need all three or one tight and one round would work.
Thanks,
Donnie
Thanks,
Donnie
I use the .51 myself as I put a slight champer on all outside radiuses which creates a good fit. When doing machine work a radius on a tenon is stronger than a sharp corner.
Dick
okay so I finally managed to find a store which agreed to sell me one insert instead of a 10-pack or a hundred 
Actually I bought three with different radius.
There was a good reason I was looking to buy only one since I was uncertain about the size, and whether the inserts fit my tool. Now it's obvious I was worrying for good, take a look.
and one compared to the shaft
That's a bit weird since my tool holder is 3/8 abd these inserts are listed as 3/8 as well
I wonder whether same inserts are available in the size that would fit me. According to tool part numbers mentioned here and there I bought exactly what I wanted. So now it might be time to look for a new holder...
Actually I bought three with different radius.There was a good reason I was looking to buy only one since I was uncertain about the size, and whether the inserts fit my tool. Now it's obvious I was worrying for good, take a look.
and one compared to the shaft
That's a bit weird since my tool holder is 3/8 abd these inserts are listed as 3/8 as well
I wonder whether same inserts are available in the size that would fit me. According to tool part numbers mentioned here and there I bought exactly what I wanted. So now it might be time to look for a new holder...
www.hhip.com
they have a great catalogue and lots of cutting tools.
they have a great catalogue and lots of cutting tools.
okay so I finally managed to find a store which agreed to sell me one insert instead of a 10-pack or a hundred
That's a bit weird since my tool holder is 3/8 abd these inserts are listed as 3/8 as well
I wonder whether same inserts are available in the size that would fit me. According to tool part numbers mentioned here and there I bought exactly what I wanted. So now it might be time to look for a new holder...
The size of 3/8 actually references the inside diameter of the insert. In the picture the red circle is the 3/8 size. My circle isn't placed perfect, but you get the idea. To use the insert you have, you will need a 1/2" toolholder. The actual body of the holder will be .5" square. It won't fit a taig style toolpost. I may be wrong But I believe you will need a 1/4" dia. insert for the toolholder. It is very misleading with the sizes, I had the same thing happen.
Dave
Dave, thanks for clarifying. My current tool holder is 3/8 though the toolpost is 1/4. I had to have the tool body ground down to fit. So I suppose I could do the same to a 1/2" toolholder.
Could you point me to one that will match the inserts I got? Just to get the impression and be able to look in right direction.
The TCGT 32.52-AK HO1 fits my 3/8 tool holders................. I have them and they fit. Buy a cheap set of 3/8 tools... about $25.
Kim
Get the correct inserts unless you want the grind down multiple holders....
Randy, this thread is 3 months short of celebrating A YEAR. That is how long I was trying to get the inserts. I would have been thankful for a post like "you need this, go here and buy this, check here how it looks like, etc." But instead I had to do lots of guessing, searching, inquiring, etc. There even were a couple of PMs asking me to share the source had I succeeded in my search. Finally I did, so it's about time to give them an answer.
First I was caught by a post JoeyinCali made about how good tcgt-s are. There is a link to it in my opening post of this very thread, but to save time and clicks I will copy one of the images here.
So these were the ones I was looking for. I had nothing but this code to start with.
Here is what I finally succeeded to buy
The letters do match, don't they? Hurrah.
I wish I got Dave's attention in the beginning of my quest, I would have at least known "3/8" can be different. Lucky me, he clarified that only after I got new inserts. And noone else ever did mention that.
So I will have to do by trial and error, sometimes like a blind man. And people around could stay and be amazed at how he can't find his way. I just have to be going further.
and apparently doesn't fit mine. I got my current toolholder from Unique Prod. and I know it is 3/8 from their catalog:
Like I said, I thought 3/8 holder and 3/8 insert go along well. Hmm...
You see how complicated this is.
Well, I volunteered to send you a couple but you balked at the shipping cost....
sorry
sorry
I had to find out the hard way myself. I thought 3/8 meant 3/8 insert fit on a 3/8 toolholder. I don't have the number for the 14" insert that fits the 3/8 holder, I just bought 1/2" holders as I use a QC toolpost and those holders can fit a 1/2 insert holder. I got them from harborfreight, http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-1-2-half-inch-shank-indexable-carbide-tool-set-39933.html I measured the inner part of the 3/8" toolholder inserts and it is 1/4", so for clarity's sake, a 3/8" holder takes a 1/4" insert. A 1/2" holder takes a 3/8" insert.
I've included some pics, Hope this helps.
Dave
I've included some pics, Hope this helps.
Dave
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insert part number
I have been away from cue making for a good year now, so sorry for this late post. I believe I was the guy that first introduced these inserts for cuemaking, several years ago. I first gave one to Wiley Cue out of Corpus Christi to see if he liked them as much as I did. Not that it means anything. I know a lot of guys love them, they cut maple like a razor going through soft plastic, gives ribbon like chips in wood. Also leaves a beautiful finish on Aluminum!
The indexable tool size you are using in a hightower is labelled 3/8 inch, right? That has a square holder that is a little under 0.375 and maybe 2.4 inch long. I like the .51 inserts for general all around use myself. Like Dick, I also like the radius to keep from cracking off a tenon at the shoulder.
By the way Dickie, if you are reading this, I wanted to say Hi! I visited you a couple years ago if you recall? Health issues made me stop work for awhile man. Not cue related issues.
These are the numbers I use to identify the bits:
TCGT21.51-AK
6-TCG-2112
TMX Grade: HO1
For the 1/2 inch shank quick release, which we use in larger metal lathes, is compatible to an aloris or clone #102 QR, use:
6-TCG-3222
TCGT32.52-AK I use 50's, 51's, 52's depending on the task
Grade H01
I purchase mine from:
High Quality Tools Inc.
34940 Lakeland Blvd.
Eastlake, Ohio 44095
Phone: 440-975-9684
Fax: 440-975-9685
I always ask for the tool counter, rather than talk to a salesman in the office. Awhile back they sold them pretty cheap, as cheap as half less than I heard others say they paid for the same bits. Not sure what they cost now as I am still working off the earlier purchase. These darn bits last a long time as long as I am not lazy and use them on steel.
If you have more questions please message me, OK?
I have been away from cue making for a good year now, so sorry for this late post. I believe I was the guy that first introduced these inserts for cuemaking, several years ago. I first gave one to Wiley Cue out of Corpus Christi to see if he liked them as much as I did. Not that it means anything. I know a lot of guys love them, they cut maple like a razor going through soft plastic, gives ribbon like chips in wood. Also leaves a beautiful finish on Aluminum!
The indexable tool size you are using in a hightower is labelled 3/8 inch, right? That has a square holder that is a little under 0.375 and maybe 2.4 inch long. I like the .51 inserts for general all around use myself. Like Dick, I also like the radius to keep from cracking off a tenon at the shoulder.
By the way Dickie, if you are reading this, I wanted to say Hi! I visited you a couple years ago if you recall? Health issues made me stop work for awhile man. Not cue related issues.
These are the numbers I use to identify the bits:
TCGT21.51-AK
6-TCG-2112
TMX Grade: HO1
For the 1/2 inch shank quick release, which we use in larger metal lathes, is compatible to an aloris or clone #102 QR, use:
6-TCG-3222
TCGT32.52-AK I use 50's, 51's, 52's depending on the task
Grade H01
I purchase mine from:
High Quality Tools Inc.
34940 Lakeland Blvd.
Eastlake, Ohio 44095
Phone: 440-975-9684
Fax: 440-975-9685
I always ask for the tool counter, rather than talk to a salesman in the office. Awhile back they sold them pretty cheap, as cheap as half less than I heard others say they paid for the same bits. Not sure what they cost now as I am still working off the earlier purchase. These darn bits last a long time as long as I am not lazy and use them on steel.
If you have more questions please message me, OK?
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-10PCS-T...524?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ccfcc0e7c
I got the tcgx version and they cut fine.
I got the tcgx version and they cut fine.
Joey, thanks for the link. When I'm certain about the size (it is a little more clear now) I would buy a 10-pax, who knows.
Randy, I'm thankful for your offer to give me a help, and you were the only one to make it (in regard with real inserts purchase). Sorry shipping turned out to be prohibitive.
My impression is that bigger rasius won't let produce a square face at the shoulder, though I always cut a glue relief around the inside edge of the ferrule which might account for not-so-straight angle.
Randy, I'm thankful for your offer to give me a help, and you were the only one to make it (in regard with real inserts purchase). Sorry shipping turned out to be prohibitive.
wow, that info is golden! Thanks a lot for the advice and for taking pictures. Those of measurement inner circle through outer dimensions confuse me a bit, but I do get the bottomline afterall.
yep I read your initial post too. First I tried to contact HQTools by email but got no response from any of three branches. Finally I used Skype to make a phone call and learnt they won't sell me 3 inserts instead of 10. Moreover, they wouldn't ship to Russia if I remember correct.
could you elaborate on that? I think I might have read about this in one of the past threads but already forgot. Does smaller radius cause cracking at the tenon's shoulder sometimes?
My impression is that bigger rasius won't let produce a square face at the shoulder, though I always cut a glue relief around the inside edge of the ferrule which might account for not-so-straight angle.
The concave radius at the base adds to the strength. A tighter radius won't cause it to crack in and of itself, it is just weaker.
Putting an inside chamfer on whatever is going on the tenon will allow it to be square....
radius
Randy is correct. To elaborate: even when working with metal, a radius is preferable to a sharp inside corner. A sharp corner is provides a stress point. In reference to a cue shaft: Stress points are where a crack will more likely originate, if a tenon is stressed to that extreme.
A radius is used where the shaft is cut for the tenon. Do not sink the radius corner in deeper. If you did that, you created a new weak point. I think you indicated that you thought to do that? Just radius the inside edge of the new ferrule to allow for the radius of your inside tenon edge. Does that make sense?
I guess you may be better off ordering those cutters from EBay like Joey pointed out? I am sure there are more than manufacturers of those inserts.
Randy is correct. To elaborate: even when working with metal, a radius is preferable to a sharp inside corner. A sharp corner is provides a stress point. In reference to a cue shaft: Stress points are where a crack will more likely originate, if a tenon is stressed to that extreme.
A radius is used where the shaft is cut for the tenon. Do not sink the radius corner in deeper. If you did that, you created a new weak point. I think you indicated that you thought to do that? Just radius the inside edge of the new ferrule to allow for the radius of your inside tenon edge. Does that make sense?
I guess you may be better off ordering those cutters from EBay like Joey pointed out? I am sure there are more than manufacturers of those inserts.